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TruckNutzDude

TruckNutzDude

1/2 ton status
Joined
Mar 31, 2003
Posts
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Location
Agawam, MA
I decided that since my 52" front springs were working so well with the spring clamps in place (you know, the thing at the end of the spring with the bolt that keeps the leaves from fanning out) that they would work even BETTER with the bolt from the clamp removed. So I got out my cut off wheel, chopped that sucker out of there, got the 60" high lift and started jacking it (to test flex, this isn't the pig pen ;) ). Well the springs work really good now, so good that my driveshaft decided to seperate at the splines. :doah:

Mind you it is only a modified stock unit with ground CV stops and a custom (by me) tube. I managed about 9" of slip before it seperated and the CV never bound as I spun it by hand...
 
CDA 455 said:
What he said^^^^!
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Unfortunately it started raining just in time for the seperation because I live in new england and the weather changes more often than my ex girlfriends mood durring certain times of the month... :rolleyes:

Here's a pic of the flex it used to have acompanied by the reason I changed my username on another site to TreeHugger: :waytogo:


cLIMB.jpg


PICT4975.jpg


PICT4963.jpg


And this pic shows you can stick 10 pounds in a 5 pound bag! ( I hit my head on the roof a lot so I lean foreward when I drive :eek1: )

PICT4968.jpg
 
K10A'sBROinSLO said:
Seatbelt?!:eek1:
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It's there... see :D

seatbelt.JPG


I was actually just turning around so I could pull a jeep out which is why the guy in the jeep was taking pictures. Normally the seat belt is on. :wink1: Good eyes!!!
 
Since I took my doors off I never get in without the belt. I don't think I could survive the embarassment of running myself over. :doah::haha:
 
K10A'sBROinSLO said:
Since I took my doors off I never get in without the belt. I don't think I could survive the embarassment of running myself over. :doah::haha:
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Suprisingly enough the only thing I've run over is my battery when the stock tray decided to fall apart. I have purposely gotten out and walked next to my rig in a flat field though.

I'll try not to post pics without my belt on, I don't want to be setting a bad example. :doah:
 
Right on. I currently have no front fenders. The battery is sitting on the pass floor with some cheap Kragen cables (so i could move it around) waiting for me to do something permanent with it. :doah:

I just hadda posta pic. :D

CLIMB.jpg
 
I would at least extend them and put the bolt back in wo you dont put the weight of the whole axle hanging off just the top leaf when that side is drooped.
 
MNorby said:
I would at least extend them and put the bolt back in wo you dont put the weight of the whole axle hanging off just the top leaf when that side is drooped.
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I am using ORD shackles in the stock location so the leaf can't go any farther than the shackle lets it. I am planning on limiting straps since my brake lines are under tention now. The reason I removed the bolts was because it would tip the pinion down and cause my u-joint to bind. If I had my springs reversed I would have left the bolt in there.
 
He's saying I'm straining the main leaf in the pack too much by letting the axle pull down on it without having the support from the other leaves (the reason there is a clamp holding the pack together)
 
TruckNutzDude said:
I am using ORD shackles in the stock location so the leaf can't go any farther than the shackle lets it. I am planning on limiting straps since my brake lines are under tention now. The reason I removed the bolts was because it would tip the pinion down and cause my u-joint to bind. If I had my springs reversed I would have left the bolt in there.
Click to expand...

You may get some nasty axle wrap without the bolts. My bro was following a Sniper/Scorpion, whatever that thing that Sonny Honneger guy built up a waterfall and he had to back down cuz the front axle was winding up and binding the U-joint. About 6" of lift from tahoe rear springs with a Furd hi-pinion axle.
 
TruckNutzDude said:
He's saying I'm straining the main leaf in the pack too much by letting the axle pull down on it without having the support from the other leaves (the reason there is a clamp holding the pack together)
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Yah I got it...I forgot about the whole point of the thread cuz I hijacked it so bad talking about running our/yourselves over and batteries and such. I'm a bit overtired. :doah:
 
K10A'sBROinSLO said:
You may get some nasty axle wrap without the bolts. My bro was following a Sniper/Scorpion, whatever that thing that Sonny Honneger guy built up a waterfall and he had to back down cuz the front axle was winding up and binding the U-joint. About 6" of lift from tahoe rear springs with a Furd hi-pinion axle.
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I'll keep my fingers crossed. I haven't had any axlewrap since I removed my 6" BDS springs and took the 2" block out of the 64" rear springs. If I get wrap I'll put the bolt back in but for now I'm glad my u-joint doesn't bind.
 
TruckNutzDude said:
I'll keep my fingers crossed. I haven't had any axlewrap since I removed my 6" BDS springs and took the 2" block out of the 64" rear springs. If I get wrap I'll put the bolt back in but for now I'm glad my u-joint doesn't bind.
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Yah, that's kind of a catch-22. My bro's hi pinion helps. I'm jealous. I want a true hi 9 front. $$$. Actually, since I have 46"s now, I should probably be looking for some rockwells.

What if you put one bolt in and left the other out to keep the pinion from dropping?
 
K10A'sBROinSLO said:
Yah, that's kind of a catch-22. My bro's hi pinion helps. I'm jealous. I want a true hi 9 front. $$$. Actually, since I have 46"s now, I should probably be looking for some rockwells.

What if you put one bolt in and left the other out to keep the pinion from dropping?
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I have actually thought of drilling a 3/8" hole in one of the ribs on the housing and putting a limiting strap on it. It would keep my shaft from coming apart and point the pinion up at the same time while allowing the other side to droop as much as it wanted. I just don't know if this would fatigue the casting too much... it is just a support.
 
TruckNutzDude said:
I have actually thought of drilling a 3/8" hole in one of the ribs on the housing and putting a limiting strap on it. It would keep my shaft from coming apart and point the pinion up at the same time while allowing the other side to droop as much as it wanted. I just don't know if this would fatigue the casting too much... it is just a support.
Click to expand...
That there is a dang good idea. I'm gonna be flexifying the front of mine soon, and that is gonna be a concern for me. If the casting were to break, maybe choke a cable all the way around the diff? Have to look at one and think about it. Maybe a plate with 3 or so 1/4" bolts bolted to the rib to spread the load out.
 
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