CK5
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Opinions on a dodge?

Ive been looking into buying that truck for some time now. Thats a great price. My old man has the 2500 shortbox ext. cab but with a gas motor. Its a great truck, but likes to eat unit brearings and ball joints when you bet big tires on it. As for the tranny, its not a matter of "if" its a matter of "when". And if he's got 120k on it, you're due. He's got 270k on his.
 
The 12v is a great motor as long as it is not a #53 block. The dodge auto trannys are marginal at best behind a Cummins especially if you up the power which is cheap and easy with a 12v by the way. $500 or less and you can have an extra 80+ HP & 150+ lb's of torque.

Check out cumminsforum.com for some good info on these trucks.

Harley
 
A bunch of good info so far in this thread and also some "interesting" info thrown in too....:rolleyes:

basically facts...

1. If you want a Manual trans truck, go buy a manual trans truck. Don't purposely buy an auto truck with a plan on doing a swap, especially since the truck in mind is stock as a rock.

2. the 47RH auto does not "suck." It's as simple as this...... Dodge uses a motor that simply makes a crap ton of power with little money..... then the boneheads that don't understand why their stock autos blow up pulling 30K behind them can't keep their mouths shut or fingers off the keyboard.....now it has a "reputation." 90% of the stock autos behind stock Cummins that see RATED use and loads live a long and happy life.

3. Don't worry about the 53 block, that would be a 1998-2001 issue on 24v motors.

4. Don't worry about the CAD system.... if it ever won't go into 4wd, replace the old vaccuum line that goes to the axle and be on your way.

5. Unit bearings.... this can be debateable, but it's not as common as some people hear it is. This is just another thing like the transmission rumor. Know it alls, that never have actually owned one, but had a brother in law's cousins's best friend's sister that had a unit bearing go out....

6. The track bar is a real thing to actually look into. They wear prematurely on almost all trucks and it wouldn't hurt to replace it if the truck seems to wonder a little.

7. "but the Dodge D60 is weak with it's CAD and different inner axles...."" blah blah..... I could care less. I've witnessed multiple 1000HP Dodges ripping up sled pull tracks, and 20psi boosted launches spinning all 4 tires in 4wd off the line and through the 60ft line...... weak doesn't go hand in hand with a Dodge D60.



Drive the truck, if you like it, it drives nice, and you are comfortable with having an auto, then buy it. They are arguably the best out of the big three through the 90's and should be a good truck for you.
 
A bunch of good info so far in this thread and also some "interesting" info thrown in too....:rolleyes:

basically facts...

1. If you want a Manual trans truck, go buy a manual trans truck. Don't purposely buy an auto truck with a plan on doing a swap, especially since the truck in mind is stock as a rock.

2. the 47RH auto does not "suck." It's as simple as this...... Dodge uses a motor that simply makes a crap ton of power with little money..... then the boneheads that don't understand why their stock autos blow up pulling 30K behind them can't keep their mouths shut or fingers off the keyboard.....now it has a "reputation." 90% of the stock autos behind stock Cummins that see RATED use and loads live a long and happy life.
....................................


Drive the truck, if you like it, it drives nice, and you are comfortable with having an auto, then buy it. They are arguably the best out of the big three through the 90's and should be a good truck for you.

AMEN brother rjfguitar!

So Chevy305, whats up? Did you end up buying the cummins or what?

FYI- Ive got a 1998 12 valve, i tow 10K# daily, i didnt put in a tranny till over 200K. Dude, I beat the hell out of my truck, and I couldnt ask for a stronger, more dependable rig. As far as maintenence costs, the dodge is no more expensive than any of the other big three. if anything, its cheaper because the mechanics are so simple. Ive done my unit bearings too, $265 per side, and are about as labor intensive as a front pad slap on your moms subaru. the only complaint i have is the braking system on them is a little weak, but then again they weigh 9k empty. i plan to put an exhaust brake in to fix that.

Im not sure what ya'lls market is like, but if he was asking 6k for that truck out here, i would sell my kids to buy it. those things go for about double that out here.

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AMEN brother rjfguitar!

So Chevy305, whats up? Did you end up buying the cummins or what?

No, unfortunately I took too long deciding and it was sold. Honestly, I could not afford it and the insurance for it either. Besides I would much prefer one with a stick.

But everyone thanks for the input! :bow:
 
the only complaint i have is the braking system on them is a little weak, but then again they weigh 9k empty. i plan to put an exhaust brake in to fix that.
Really? I came to find that the Dodge's brakes were better than the chevy's of the same vintage, as I've got an '01, '02 Rams, and one '98 C3500. Our Rams have rear disks, that could be it.

Where did you get "9K empty"? I own a 70ft commercial scale, my Ram weighs in at roughly 6900lbs depending on fuel, I can't break 7K unless I put something in the bed. Even my pop's '02 that is a dually with steel wheels and a 6spd weighs in at 8K.
 
Where did you get "9K empty"? I own a 70ft commercial scale, my Ram weighs in at roughly 6900lbs depending on fuel, I can't break 7K unless I put something in the bed. Even my pop's '02 that is a dually with steel wheels and a 6spd weighs in at 8K.

Perhaps, the sticker in the door. Can I come weigh in one day?
 
Perhaps, the sticker in the door. Can I come weigh in one day?
Of course, and my scale is certified along with cert. tags in case you need it for DMV.:thumb:

Good point about the sticker, maybe he's thinking that the truck weighs 8800lbs, when that is just the weight rating, not actual tare weight.
 
my rig is rear drum, not the best. i go through alot of brakes, and yes I keep my rears adjusted.

As far as weight goes, i couldn't tell you what my door sticker says. Ive only been across the scales with a trailer, and i know what the trailers weigh empty (had to scale them for DOL). I subtracted my trailer weight from the total weight. pretty simple really.

I should use the empty term loosely, i probably have 1000# of junk in my rig, such as a loaded tool box, ladder rack, tires, fuel, wife, maybe my lunchbox. some cds, etc. If sometimes i decide to bring my coffee into the cab, it may go up a few ounces. :(

Im Sorry yours weighs less than my estimate of what my dry weight is, thus not reporting it accurately. I sure dont mean to step on any toes here.


I sure didnt expect to get the book thrown at me over what my truck weighs.

My point was, my truck is heavy. is that a fair assessment?
 
my rig is rear drum, not the best. i go through alot of brakes, and yes I keep my rears adjusted.

As far as weight goes, i couldn't tell you what my door sticker says. Ive only been across the scales with a trailer, and i know what the trailers weigh empty (had to scale them for DOL). I subtracted my trailer weight from the total weight. pretty simple really.

I should use the empty term loosely, i probably have 1000# of junk in my rig, such as a loaded tool box, ladder rack, tires, fuel, wife, maybe my lunchbox. some cds, etc. If sometimes i decide to bring my coffee into the cab, it may go up a few ounces. :(

Im Sorry yours weighs less than my estimate of what my dry weight is, thus not reporting it accurately. I sure dont mean to step on any toes here.


I sure didnt expect to get the book thrown at me over what my truck weighs.

My point was, my truck is heavy. is that a fair assessment?


I'm not giving you a bad time about it, not at all. More curious than anything.

Like I said, I have a 70ft scale at my plant that I run for higher and see a lot of different vehicles come across my scale. I could see how you could be over 8K with a lumber rack, ladders, equipment, stuff you mentioned that you have on the truck.

Shed all the extras off and strip it down to when it left the dealer new, you should be right around 7K, give or take a hundred or two. You are right, rear drums should push you over 7K, and if you happen to have an NP241HD, that is fairly heavier also.
 
no worries buddy.
Hell- if i could, i'd get rid of all that crap and put one of those sweet pro tech headracks on there like the guys that make the big bucks do...:rotfl::rotfl:
 
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