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Opinions on Removing Bushwackers and some VERY aggressive trimming

josh86k10

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Knoxville, TN
I've been toying with this idea for a couple of years now, and I want some opinions.

Back in the day I installed some Bushwacker cut-out flares. I still like the look, but they are a bit fragile and impractical for the trail. I'd love to simply remove them, but they will leave a million tiny screw holes - something that would bug the hell out of me on a pretty slick looking truck.

I am currently running 39.5" TSLs on about 7" of lift. My front springs are pretty stiff. I'd like some more articulation.

Soon I'll be switching to some 52's up front. I already have a shaft with 21" of slip travel and relocated rear shackle mounts. I plan to use the B52 brackets from DIY4X. This will require a new front bumper due to interference with the way my current bumper mounts. I'll probably sell my bumper and get the Twizted Engineering cradle.

In addition to softening things up, the 52's will lower the truck about 2-3 inches (depending on if I use the zero-rates or not). The lower center of gravity will be welcomed. With the added articulation and loss of height there will likely need to be some more trimming, something the Bushwacker's will not afford. I doubt I'll need as much trimming as I'm planning, but with all of the screw holes I don't have a lot of options.

My plan: remove the flares and trim to the current margin of the Bushwackers (remove the material with screw holes). Since this will cut through the side marker light, I'll cut above it and remove it to the level of the grill. Since the new bumper will not have any side pieces, there will be no discrepecies matching the bumper sides to the body height. I'll get rid of the inner fender since my cut will be above its mounting level. The result will be a huge fender opening with the 39.5" tire about .5" further forward and an awesome approach angle due to the winch cradle. I'll take my time with the cut-off wheel to keep everything pretty and apply some rubber channel to the cut edge (like that used on motorcycle fairings).

My current setup:
truckjan07_049.jpg


truckjan07_045.jpg


Fun with photoshop (the proposed trim job)

cut-out.jpg


The Twizted Engineering Winch Cradle:
IMG_0144.jpg


TWZ_K5winchcradle_02.jpg


My current integrated solenoid Patriot 9500 Ramsey can be converted to remote solenoid style with some parts from Ramsey.

What do yall think? Will I ruin the look of my pickup? Is the fender opening too huge? Am I opening a can of worms (bigger tires to fill out huge-ass fenders, lower gears for bigger tires, etc.) Has anyone else cut to the edge of the Bushwackers so that I can see what it looks like?

For those wondering, yes the truck does see the trail (though not nearly as often as I'd like - but vet school is almost over). I do, however, drive carefully and avoid body damage as much as possible. I want my truck to be capable, but I do still care about how it looks.
 
Look up how Rene (tRUSTy) cut his K5 he used to have. Lots of folks on here have really opened up their wheel wells.
 
Not really much a fan of cutting......Just not my style.... :D The photoshop pic looks good man I say go for it...
tahoe1.jpg

Well maybe just a little will be ok...
posingafterromping1.jpg
 
how I did it...

Cutting the front this much does create some strength problems. Tilt front was the answer to re-stabilize everything. No issues in the back.

Blazer2.jpg
 
I say DO IT! Unless you need/want the clearance for mud bogs, it is a win win situation. I only have a 4 inch lift and 1 inch bl and can stuff my 38's to full droop.
 
I say remove the flares, then spot up the screw holes...then trim a little more modestly. Looking at your photochop you're gonna open up a much bigger can of worms than a few screw holes if you actually trim that far.

1004DSC00165.JPG


You can see how this is not as aggressive as your photochop...and I was only barely able to retain my inner fenders up front. In the rear my outer bedside and inner were no longer attached.

You have a decent looking truck, and it sounds like you care about keeping it that way. I say fill the screw holes...then trim only as much as you need to and do it neatly.

Rene
 
Be careful, cutting can become addictive...

I ran flares when I first got my K5...

Picture_035.jpg


Then couldn't stop myself with the saw-z-all...:D

100_4925.jpg
 
If you trim it out as much as you propose, get bigger tires!!:haha:
 
I say remove the flares, then spot up the screw holes...then trim a little more modestly. Looking at your photochop you're gonna open up a much bigger can of worms than a few screw holes if you actually trim that far.

1004DSC00165.JPG


You can see how this is not as aggressive as your photochop...and I was only barely able to retain my inner fenders up front. In the rear my outer bedside and inner were no longer attached.

You have a decent looking truck, and it sounds like you care about keeping it that way. I say fill the screw holes...then trim only as much as you need to and do it neatly.

Rene

Can you post some closer pics of your front trim? Your trim job is one of the best I have seen. looks very clean. would like to see how the inner fender works with the bottom of the trim.
TIA
 
Can you post some closer pics of your front trim? Your trim job is one of the best I have seen. looks very clean. would like to see how the inner fender works with the bottom of the trim.
TIA

x2 Mine are cut very similar to yours Rene, but I still have issues under my rad support with rubbing.
 
Having cut up alot of my rigs and freinds rigs I say wait until you get the suspension done and trim as needed. Huge trims without the huge tires kind of look silly to me like you didn't really plan things out. Half the time if you just go whole hog with the trimming you trim alot you don't need too.

So I agree with Rene except I say trim as needed and then fill the holes mabey you can get a couple of them out
 
Can you post some closer pics of your front trim? Your trim job is one of the best I have seen. looks very clean. would like to see how the inner fender works with the bottom of the trim.
TIA

Let me do some digging for pic's. Hopefully I have something that'll help. The truck got parted out over a year ago and went to some ass clown who decided well after he got it that he just wasn't gonna pay me anything for it.

I will tell you I trimmed the fenders off the truck and from the inside out. There is a ledge the inner bolts to if you look at the inside of the fender...I mostly followed that over the arch. Then I removed the fang up front, and did the rear about the same as everyone else. I spent some time with a flap wheel sanding disc on my grinder and blended the outside to the shape you see. Just fine tuned it until it looked good.

Then I made a big template out of thick construction paper and did the other front the same. I used the same template to get the same shape on the rears too. I used the body line as the top of my template.

I'll see if I can dig up anymore pics...

Rene
 
I don't any better pics. I do have a pair of junk front fenders I could trim up. They still have inners attached. I could trim them up the same as the ones on my old Jimmy, but take step by step pic's and some closer shots.

Rene
 
Here is a pic of my latest cuts. I didn't get above the stock lines because I have no reason to. I still have issues under my radiator support though.

Fenderdimensions.jpg


DSCN3196.jpg


Inner fender under the radiator. Not sure how to cut it yet.

IMG_4467.jpg
 
Inner fender under the radiator. Not sure how to cut it yet.

IMG_4467.jpg

Do you really need to cut it? Is it actually hurting anything? It doesn't appear to be hitting a sharp edge that will cut into the tire.

Martin
 
No it isn't cutting the tire, but it does restrict its movement and rotation when its stuffed in there hard. :wink1:
 
If you trim to the screw holes you are looking at about 3" everywhere. You will have to cut nearly up to the body line and probably into the firewall. You should measure it out to see if it is even possible.

Maybe there is a "universal" fender trim that covers an inch or more of sheet metal and it can be used to hide the "filled" screw holes instead of having to repaint everything. The problem with a lot of those is that they attach to the fender lip, which you won't have.
 
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