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Options for lifting a K30/CUCV ?

Jesse Jaymes

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Just in general, but not too general. I am sure there are at least 5 big companies out there who offer lift kits. I am not so sure about the 1-ton stuff. I guess, from the research I've done, that I am opting for a rear shackle flip and front springs.

I would also guess that the 6.2 is going to be pretty heavy, and am unaware of any buzz words or thoughts I am going to need to put into the lift.

I am excited, as I have been searching for a Chevy pick up for some time, to replace an '84 3/4T I was forced to "give away" in my last move. Loved the truck. Now, I've found a replacement, in the 1984 M1008 I am almost stealing. I've post pics when I pick it up in a week or two. SUPER CLEAN, and all of the stout goodies.

I do not want a crazy lift. I would like to run 35's or so, and was thinking a 4" would be about perfect, and not much additional headaches.

What am I overlooking in this list:

Rear shackle flip (aren't there 2 companies ? ORD and DIY4X ?
Front springs by ?
Extended brake lines
and a D60 dropped arm ?

Have an additional question about tires, but will post seperately
 
The 6.2 isn't that much heavier than the small block gas engines, nothing like the huge difference between a Cummins vs. Mopar small block. On my 6.2 K5 I originally (mid-90's) used the 4" Skyjacker softride springs with no issues, and several years ago replaced them with Tuff Country 4" HD springs (the only difference with the HD is that it has an additional bottom leaf). I chose the HD versions because I had also added a front bumper with a winch, and there was no reason not to because all you have to do is pull the bottom leaf out and they are exactly the same as the regulars...so why not. With a 4" shackle flip in the rear it looks pretty close to level.

But in any case, the only difference in lifts for a 1-ton is if you get the shackle flip for the rear you need a 1-ton specific version because the distance the hangers stick out from the frame is difference than the 1/2 or 3/4 tons (hence the reason the perches on the diff are closer together on the 1-ton axles).
 
What he said. The Tuff Country HD stuff is popular. A few guys over on www.SteelSoldiers.com have gone with Superstiff's...errrr...Superlift's stuff but yeah...it's stiff.




Oh yeah, you're going to need at least a true 36" tall tire to make it at least driveable. With your standard 34" tall 35 you're still going to be revving the hell out of that 6.2L. It's a good engine but you'll go deaf.
 
Rear shackle flip - Diy4x or ORD, both are great: ORD uses stock/stock style shackles, diy uses front shackle type. decide what you like.

Front springs by- Tough Country HD are popular right now, I too am thinking of getting some for my K30

Extended brake lines-4wheelparts sells Earls for about $100. Best ones I have seen in a kit.

and a D60 dropped arm- I ran an S-shaped drag link for 8 years with no breakage. Recently converted to crossover steering. I dont know if you'll find a drop arm and stay away from the scary steering blocks that are out there!

Additionally consider getting new rear springs of the 3/4 ton variety. Still give you good payload but a much smoother ride!
 
i am running 6 inch skyjacker front springs and procomp 6 inch rear springs on my m1008. tires are currently 35's but i plan on going up to 37's soon.

40600117_G.sized.jpg
 
I just finished putting a 4 inch lift in mine. Its a 86 M1008. 4 inch Tuff Country HD springs. Skyjacker Dropped pitman arm, Skyjacker extended brake lines, ORD steering box brace, 3 inch blocks with u-bolt flip in rear for now. Came out good. Rides not too much different. Looks awsome. Slight pitch higher in the front, but a winch is in the trucks future so I'm not concerned with it. Plus they'll settle a little over time.

Here's a link to pictures of my truck with the lift installed.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index....&t=25184&sid=ff67ea07285d66d3f9461fcace740e3e
 
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I went with a 2" lift and 37" tires on my K20. Front springs and rear blocks for now.

flatbed_test.jpg
 
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