ORD Body lift and Poly Mounts

[dsmd58]

I have never body lifted a vehicle before and I was wondering if you guys could tell me whats entailed in a 1inch lift for my burb?

Whats needed to extend or is this not necessary for a 1 inch lift?

 

[miniwally]

I think the benefit of the 1" body lift is that nothing has to be changed. There may be a chance you will have to adjust the shifter linkage for the T case and Transmission but most likely not.

It's amazing how much of a difference that 1" will make while trying to work on things and fit new parts in. It really helps.

 

[dstrbdxp-AK]

I'm almost done with my 1' and poly's, everything topside is in place other than the #3 bolts...I think they are too short, but, if my mufflers were right underneath I wouldn't have as much trouble, LOL. Only comment is I wish they added more hardware, i.e. over sized washers. I like washers on both ends. Other than that I'm happy.

Oh and I almost had to open my dog up..kept stealing the bushings out of the box, took me 45 minutes to find it..had I not he was going in for an X-ray.

 

[CAVANALK5]

Not to jack your thread, but what tire clearance does the 1" add? I'd like to run 35s on a 4" without trimming. I'd go 5 or 6" if necessary.

I've always been opposed to body lifts cuz I've always seen 88-98 pickups with 4 inch body lifts that look like h3ll....but never know til ya ask.

 

[Chevy305]

I'd say you need at least a 4" lift with a 2" body lift to clear 35"s without rubbing or triming. If you're against body lifts I say go 4" all spring lift with the extended front hd shackels and a zero rate front/rear you should clear 35"s decently.

 

[dstrbdxp-AK]

I run 35's on 4" lift, no rubbin no trimmin. I did the 1" mostly to give the valve covers bit more room.

 

[dfl701]

Not to jack your thread, but what tire clearance does the 1" add? I'd like to run 35s on a 4" without trimming. I'd go 5 or 6" if necessary.

I've always been opposed to body lifts cuz I've always seen 88-98 pickups with 4 inch body lifts that look like h3ll....but never know til ya ask.

To make sure I got this your sayin you see trucks with 4 inch body lifts? If so that's completely unsafe and should ne'er ever be done. The most I would go is 3.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Whiplash and someone else once made 4.5" body lifts for the newer IFS trucks.

Not as redneck as stacked hockey pucks but still skeezy. Ranked right up there with their 12" IFS suspension lifts. Gah!

 

[CAVANALK5]

To make sure I got this your sayin you see trucks with 4 inch body lifts? If so that's completely unsafe and should ne'er ever be done. The most I would go is 3.

x2...and it looks like poop. best to just save up and do it right on the IFS. I have always been strictly against body lift, but i might consider a 1" if it's worth the time and effort to clear some rubber

 

[ryoken]

nothing wrong with a 1" BL... matter of fact, it's generally an excellent mod...

general consensus around here is 1", maybe a 2" is fine...

 

[AJMBLAZER]

x2...and it looks like poop. best to just save up and do it right on the IFS. I have always been strictly against body lift, but i might consider a 1" if it's worth the time and effort to clear some rubber

There is no "right way" to lift GM torsion bar IFS other than a SFA or one of the uber expensive coil conversions. Been there, done that, paid the bills and got the FAIL.

If I EVER got a GM torsion IFS truck again the only way I'd lift it would either be fender cutting and bigger tires or a 2-3" body lift and big tires. The suspension will remain bone stock. Only way they survive.

 

[CAVANALK5]

ryoken, thanks for the HU (Heads up). Will definitely add it to the possibile mod list. I wish my body parts list grew as fast as the Blazer parts list.


AJM, I did not know that. I never figured on lifting an IFS Truck anyway. My IF plan, meaning probably won't happen, is IF I got a new truck it'd be either a crew cab Z71 left stock with upgraded wheels and tires. Or a 3/4 or 1ton SRW Dodge Mega 4x4 lifted with bigger tires. Just my lottery list lol

 

[dstrbdxp-AK]

I'll be sending a PM and probably making a call tomorrow since it's Friday. But things have slowed in the garage, just haven't had time. Anyhow, I checked my mounts over after 100miles of drives, and it turns out the core support mounts just weren't right. I installed the proper part # in the right location, even double checked. Issue I'm having is once the bolt is tight, the lower poly bushing slides up/down the original spacer/sleeve like 1/4 inch.

Only thing I can thing of to do is take it off and trim the sleeve down about 5/16's until everything sits tight. Other than this, everything else is golden.

 

[Tonyraca]

I just spent the better part of this weekend working on my body lift. I was installing new poly bushings and the ORD 1" body lift kit.

I had to trim the factory sleeve on both radiator mounts. Also, the bolts were too long in the radiator mount location, and the rear bolts closest to the tailgate were too short.

One of the rear body mount bolts was completely rusted into the factory sleeve. I had to grind off the bolt head from inside the tub, then use a sawzall to cut the bolt in half from under the bed. Then the fun started since half the bolt was stuck inside the mount.

Does anyone know if there is a torque spec for body mounts? When I tighten down the bolts, the bottom bushing compresses and turns from a cone to more of a doughnut for lack of a better description.

 

[dstrbdxp-AK]

I had to trim the factory sleeve on both radiator mounts. Also, the bolts were too long in the radiator mount location, and the rear bolts closest to the tailgate were too short.

I dont know the spec, but I had them goodntight, ran 100miles, checked them-tight to the point in which it slightly starts to compress, remember those are captured nuts in the tub, so you go too tight you may spin the nut.

I had to trim my rad. mount sleeves too..I called Stephen before hand, he said he never ran across that on any Blazer

 

[Tonyraca]

I think that it might have to do with the bushings. I got the Energy Suspension Kit and the bottom bushings for the #2,#3 positions were cone shaped and "taller", while the #1,#4, #5 positions were just puck shaped and "shorter". If the cone shaped mushing was used on the radiator mounts, I think that I might not have needed to trim the factory sleeve.

I don't really understand the purpose of the factory sleeves, or the bottom bushing for that matter.