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ORD crossover interference

Dont fake it break it

Dont fake it break it

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On an 87 Blazer 4wd 10 bolt, the new position of my factory tie rod on the new set of Reid knuckles had it rubbing on the leaf springs. I’ve looked more closely at a lot of set up’s online and a good number have spring perch spacers. ORD of course sells them in 1/4” and 1” but never mention that as a possibility. I chose 1/4 not wanting the extra lift only in front. Is this typical?
 
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I have stock knuckles on mine with ORD springs and the tie rod clears, but the drag link rubs the top of the spring pack when turned fully to the driver side. So watch for that while you chase after the proper set-up.
 
So the tie rod is in the stock position on the knuckles (not high steer) and your rubbing the bottom of the springs?

stock or lift springs?
 
I appreciate all the replies and will answer them all here. It’s got 3.5” lift on 35s. The spring deflection is about 4.5”, center of eye to top spring. I thought they might be saggy. Tie rod came nut up stock. ORD told me they’d only do a set of knuckles nut down so I figured sure I’ll take another 3” ground clearance.Shoulda just went high steer. Oh and I haven’t even tried mocking up the drag link yet. 8A9CD3F7-0C3D-4C85-AC0E-988E8714C21E.jpeg
front and center
FFC728F9-1C39-4DE0-92BC-0F43B40DF342.jpeg
Pass side wheels straight. 1/4” clearance thanks to the new shims.
E7027894-0CA4-4123-9F9C-3A789150C33E.jpeg
drivers side 1/2” clearance
28760C96-7192-4DAD-B596-F20D7341B329.jpeg
Wheels left
EB260EDD-62AA-4C7E-8E36-DF8FA273118C.jpeg
Wheels right
85C173C6-C051-4D1F-9105-D81519F263C4.jpeg
Side view
 
I run the ORD crossover with 4” lift and I’ve had zero issues with interference. I don’t have high steer either.
 
Looks like that spring clamp is in a problematic position.
I would look at the caster angle and see if you could install a 2* shim that also gives a quarter inch of lift. Seems like ORD does custom ones. Kicking the tie rid downward a touch by getting rid of a little caster could maybe help enough, if you have caster angle to spare.
 
6872xtc said:
Looks like that spring clamp is in a problematic position.
I would look at the caster angle and see if you could install a 2* shim that also gives a quarter inch of lift. Seems like ORD does custom ones. Kicking the tie rid downward a touch by getting rid of a little caster could maybe help enough, if you have caster angle to spare.
Click to expand...
Been thinking about that too. I asked ORD and they didn’t recommend it. He said it could alter the geometry enough to create more issues.
 
Another option would be to drill the taper out of the knuckle and run a taper insert with the tie rod on the bottom, nut up, and it would still be higher than a stock knuckle.
 
83ChevyK5Blazer said:
Another option would be to drill the taper out of the knuckle and run a taper insert with the tie rod on the bottom, nut up, and it would still be higher than a stock knuckle.
Click to expand...
That’s interesting. Not set up for that level of milling. It would seem a shame to start drilling into my brand new $300 knuckles. Thought about just throwing the tie rod back down there and bolting it up and saying to hell with it. I didn’t. Tell you what I did do though…Went to work on flipping my springs around so the clamp is in the rear. I’m all ears for why that’s a bad idea.
 
You want enough clearance to change a TRE without having to take U-bolts off, right?
 
Another option is offset 1 ton tie rod ends. Push the tie rod further forward. But when you are stuffed those springs are going to get alot closer. So it may take offset tie rod ends plus a 3/4" zero rate. And put the nut on the tre and see how much it pulls it into the taper.
 
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