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ORD Doubler crossmember HELP

nova

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My 77k5 is getting a crossmember for the 2 inch up doubler setup I have from ORD. I was under the impression My frame was getting boxed in to do it, but now it looks like it won't be. The fabricator is wanting to make brackets off the frame to do it while using a flat belly pan.

Does anyone have some pics of something like this? I have searched all over ck5 and seen some out there, but I was just wondering if there was anymore out there. I am also interested in any other pics of doubler setups out there. We will be using 2" long x 3" diameter with 9/16 bolts poly mounts to hang the doubler crossmember on. He said it would be like a ford setup, whatever that meant.

Please give me some ideas guys before the work is done. he will be starting it on monday.
 
Here is mine. you will have a hard time making a flat belly with out cutting the floorpan out---a lot.

I raised my drivetrain 2" over stock and I still have a little bit of the crossmember hanging down, I did use 1 3/4" tubing so that is most of the problem.

I personally dont like bushings at the frame--I used solid mounts at the frame and factory rubber under both adaptors. I did box the frame from front to back so that is what it attaches to.


from the side--you can see what hangs down

crossmember003.jpg


from the back->foreward

crossmember001.jpg


foreward->back

crossmember002.jpg
 
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here is mine. not boxed in frame.
DSC03860.jpg

DSC03863.jpg

DSC03861.jpg

__________________

What size square tube is that?
 
1.5" sq tube and the sides where it mounts to frame is 2" angle
 
thank you very much guys. They all gave me some ideas on what to do. Very nice set ups indeed.

I'm thinking he is using poly bushings mounted on the frame to save on space and height. I see how using solid mounted frame mounts with solid mounted transfer case mounts and poly pucks mounted off to the side helps in strength and some of the poly puck mount height. Wouldn't having the poly bushings help in dispersing the load some from the engine, though? And with having the bushings on the frame and not on the mount, doesn't this have less mounts and parts to go wrong? Don't get me wrong I do see faults in what I'm doing to. Like when I end up hitting the skid plate this would in-turn move my crossmember some, but then again it would help absorb some of the shock on the frame. The amount in movement wouldn't be more then a degree, but still it moved. I have seen some poly puck mount setups disintegrate leaving only the bolts to take care of all the stress, letting the transfer case move about in all directions. I would think with this set up if the poly failed the only direction it could go is in a rotation up or down, but only by a few degrees. Leaving the crossmember close to original location. Really though, poly failing is very rare any how:rolleyes: . I'm just thinking simplicity and and over all heath for my thin 700r4 housing. Also I have the ORD competition motor mounts and by using the bushings I end up with the motor, trans, and transfer case moving more alike,as one.

Keep the pics coming, please. I know there has to be more crossmembers out there. The doubler is way to popular not to have them.
 
bp71k5 said:
What's the wall thickness on the 1.5" square?

Round tubing- .120, but I'm trying to get him to use 1.75" .250 tubing. or at least 1.75 .120 tubing.
 
I wanted as much clearance as I could get so I made a mount that put the bushings up higher rather than off of the botom of the adaptor.The crossmember is 1.5" ,.25" wall square tube.It sits inside the frame and is held on with two 1/2" bolts at each end and two7/16" bolts that bolt it to the skid for extra suport.The bushings are just black rubber that I had punched out at a place here in town

Img_0116.jpg



Mah belly be flat :D

rub4sm.jpg


Img_0122.jpg
 
FRIZZLEFRY said:
I wanted as much clearance as I could get so I made a mount that put the bushings up higher rather than off of the botom of the adaptor.The crossmember is 1.5" ,.25" wall square tube.It sits inside the frame and is held on with two 1/2" bolts at each end and two7/16" bolts that bolt it to the skid for extra suport.The bushings are just black rubber that I had punched out at a place here in town

Very nice set up man. now thats a skidplate:bow:
 
FRIZZLEFRY said:

is that aluminum? if so that is a seriously expensive piece of metal if its steel that a seriously heavy skid. how thick is that? how are the exposed bolt heads holding up? did you consider using countersunk bolts?
 
Its 36"x36"x1/2" aluminum :D I was going to countersink the holes but I was rushed to get it done right before a big run.That was over a year ago and I havnt drug it on anything yet so Im thinking I might not go to the trouble.I may switch to button head allens though.
 
FRIZZLEFRY said:
Its 36"x36"x1/2" aluminum :D I was going to countersink the holes but I was rushed to get it done right before a big run.That was over a year ago and I havnt drug it on anything yet so Im thinking I might not go to the trouble.I may switch to button head allens though.

thanks. I din't even think about using aluminum to save on weight. :doah:after some searching I found this.

http://www.engineersedge.com/wwwboard/messages/176.html

and this. which means that skid weighs about 65 lbs.

http://www.metalsalesusa.com/plt2024.htm
 
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