ORD Drop Pitman

[Mastiff]

Swapping front D60 in place of 10 bolt and I see on my 10 bolt the steering arm was raised for my 4" lift (it's been 20 years!). I'm about to order, but I want to confirm that this is the right thing for a D60 with 4" lift:

"2" Drop pitman arm, for '67-'87('91) 1/2 and 3/4 ton Chevy with 3" of lift and for '67-'87('91) 1 ton Chevy with 3" of lift or more - CA50"

I know crossover is the hot ticket and I'll get there eventually, but for now I want to get back on the road and stop hemorrhaging money. Still have to buy wheels and tires!

 

[thatK30guy]

Actually that arm drops a true 1.5" instead of 2". I guess it's easier to advertise as 2" instead of 1.5". And this arm comes from Skyjacker as they're the only manufacturer that makes these specific arms.

On a side note, if you get this arm, make sure you tighten the nut to the Skyjacker specs of around 175 ft. lbs. I bought my K30 with one already on it and hit a curb on ice which sheared the splines in the arm and I sent it back hoping to get a new one in exchange. They told me I had to buy a new one because the bad arm wasn't torqued properly. They said they have ways to test products whether or not if they've been tightened down to their specs. I decided to go against the grain with my new arm from them and had a friend who is a notary public stand by and watch me torque the new arm down and then sign the paper and stamp it. This way Skyjacker can't try to weasel their way out of me.

 

[K85 Octane]

Would a dropped arm be better than a lift block? I kinda always thought with small lifts it was better to raise the axle side, than drop the steering side. But then again, it is a spacer block.

 

[Mastiff]

Hmmm. Here's a Skyjacker part on Amazon, same part # but it looks different... same price but I can get this shipped free...

http://www.amazon.com/Skyjacker-CA50-Pitman-Arm-2-5/dp/B000E3DU3C/

Actually that arm drops a true 1.5" instead of 2". I guess it's easier to advertise as 2" instead of 1.5". And this arm comes from Skyjacker as they're the only manufacturer that makes these specific arms.

On a side note, if you get this arm, make sure you tighten the nut to the Skyjacker specs of around 175 ft. lbs. I bought my K30 with one already on it and hit a curb on ice which sheared the splines in the arm and I sent it back hoping to get a new one in exchange. They told me I had to buy a new one because the bad arm wasn't torqued properly. They said they have ways to test products whether or not if they've been tightened down to their specs. I decided to go against the grain with my new arm from them and had a friend who is a notary public stand by and watch me torque the new arm down and then sign the paper and stamp it. This way Skyjacker can't try to weasel their way out of me.

 

[sweetk30]

I prefer drop pitman arm my self over lift block .

and resale value is higher on the drop pitman arm .

I have been running one for years on my k30 with 4" lift.

also the amazon pic is prob just a stock gereric photo .

 

[Mastiff]

I'm going to ask the question now that I know I'll have later. What's the right way to set up the pitman arm and drag link? They are both adjustable, the arm by the splines and the draglink with the sleeve. Once I have the axle in place with the wheels forward and the steering wheel centered, what do I do to get it right?

 

[sweetk30]

4wd pitman arm is 1 position only .

and 2wd arm is 4 different positions 90* apart .

4wd easy only go on 1 way .

any arm is easy count turns lock to lock . cut in 1/2 and that's center . pop on arm were it need to be centered and lock it down . then drag link adjustment is to center the steering wheel driving down the road so its not pointing off center.