So recently I got ORD motor mounts to replace the old stock ones that where trashed when I swapped my new motor in recently I went to bolt up the headers and the hit the frame could anyone suggest some headers that will fit with my new setup
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ORD Motor Mounts and Headers
- Thread starter modhunt
- Start date
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
where do they hit? ORD motor mounts keep the motor in the stock place. Just not the sagged place of the worn out ones.
Yup!
I did center dump style Sanderson so that I could eliminate the exhaust heat into the clocked t-case and fuel lines by crossing the right pipe over under the oil pan. These headers did make me buy heat sleeves for the center 4 plug wires.
Where do yours hit the frame?
My son put a set of Headmans on the SB in his '72 that are mid length and clear the shackles when compared to most 4 into 1 headers.
My Sandersons,
Hedmans
They are for some reason hitting the frame and not being able to like hug the block in the back I guess you could say
They hit the frame infront of the shackle I have some random old longtubes no name brand or anything on them got them with the truck
This seems to be an issue related to brands but not necessarily cheap vs expensive. Some folks trim the frame (I'm not a fan of this), I'd buy better fitting headers.
I will also add that I too have Sanderson shorties and ORD motor mounts (454) with no issues.
I had a set of lower level Hedmans, long tube, hit the shackles in a '79 years ago. The local muffler shop heated the tubes with a torch and made clearance. It worked for a beater, but a better fit would have been nice. He had just done an install on an '82, without a problem.
I personally like long tubes but need something to fit I got 4.56 gears running on 36s I know longtubes generally are used for vehicles sitting in higher rpms. Do y’all really think the difference between a long tube and short would be that noticeable. Also what are some good brands that won’t break my piggy bank
As far as long tubes vs short, there is a valid performance argument however how sensitive the motor is to the style of headers will depend on how it's built. A stock to mild motor probably wouldn't notice much difference where a more modified motor that can turn higher rpm probably would.
I want to say there's a thread in the Garage forum by @dyeager535 with part numbers for quality, good fitting sbc headers.
I want to say there's a thread in the Garage forum by @dyeager535 with part numbers for quality, good fitting sbc headers.
- Displacement (cu. in.): 350
- Bore x Stroke (in.): 4.000 x 3.480
- Block (P/N 10066034): Cast-iron with four-bolt main caps
- Crankshaft (P/N 93426651): Nodular iron
- Connecting Rods (P/N 10108688): Powdered-metal steel
- Pistons (P/N 93422884): Cast-aluminum
- Camshaft Type (P/N 3896962): Hydraulic flat tappet
- Camshaft Lift (in.): .450 intake /.460 exhaust
- Camshaft Duration (@.050 in.): 222° intake / 222° exhaust
- Cylinder Heads (P/N 93438648): Iron; 76-cc chambers
- Valve Size (in.): 1.94 intake / 1.50 exhaust
- Compression Ratio: 8.0:1
- Rocker Arms (P/N 10089648): Stamped steel
- Rocker Arm Ratio: 1.5:1
- Recommended Fuel: Regular pump
- Ignition Timing: 32° Total @ 4,000 rpm
- Maximum Recommended rpm: 5100
- Balanced: Internal
From my last engine Idk if they would be better but could that also be a reason the headers don’t line up @Bent77 long time no talk btw life got in the way real hard everything is ready to go but I gotta figure out this header situation what’s your input
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I can upload a picture of where it’s hitting when I get home from classes this is the last thing I need to buy/fix to get my baby running after a year and want to figure it out sooner than later
I like long tube headers too, but I went with a compromise to make other stuff easier on the truck. Sometimes good is better to use than perfect... as far as overall package.
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did not watch the whole thing but skipped to the 16:00 min area to see results . even on a big old 427 built engine its a bit off on shorty vers long tube . but they still work and just lag behind a bit . like they said use what fits and works if you have to .
I don't even have to watch the vid to know it's good. Double thumbs up to engine masters lol. Doing the testing I wish I could afford.
Not my thread. https://ck5.com/forums/threads/hedman-elite-header-review.213472/
Agree that running headers is better than not running headers, and if you can fit them, long tubes are likely to be "better" than shorter, but there are so many variables it's guessing if you can't test them.
That said, there are some stainless eBay headers out there that are apparently fairly decent and very cheap (and a recent thread to go with), as far as I can tell impossible for the big names to compete with on cost.
we've had good luck with the hedmans here:
Hedman 69830 – Ceramic coated
Hedman 69230 – Painted, thinner flange.
probably what was mentioned earlier. They exit a bit higher than some, enough to keep them away from the shackle.
Hedman 69830 – Ceramic coated
Hedman 69230 – Painted, thinner flange.
probably what was mentioned earlier. They exit a bit higher than some, enough to keep them away from the shackle.
Thank you both for the info my bud who’s a mechanic came over with a little persuasion, blow torches, and hammering I got them to fit with our doing any harm to them. The ones I have are old cast iron ones that are starting to rust out so I will be needing a new set soon I don’t know much about them but I can for sure say they are older than me. I’m going to run these for now but will definitely look into y’all suggestions when I go to get new ones
While on the topic of front shackle hangers. I got a quick question. Mine while bolted to my front leaf springs they don’t sit straight down they are a little diagonal is that normal/ok
