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ORD springs, take or leaf it?

JT88K5

JT88K5

1/2 ton status
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Recently received and installed a set of ORD custom leaf springs. The ride is much improved and it made the K5 way more drivable. I should have went with these springs 5 years ago when I lifted it.

The rear springs with the 4.5” HD shackle and 0” lift added 1.5” to the rear, but the rear was a bit low (43.5”)compared to the front (44”)to start with. That was measured from ground to top of fender well at axle. I expected the 1/2“ from the shackle, so net lift on the spring was only 1/2” had the rear been level with the front. Can’t ask for much better. Rear shackle flip was done 5 years ago.

The problem is that the front springs were spot on regarding lift compared to the EZrides I had on there, and…as advertised, they have more flex than other off the shelf springs. So now I get some rubbing when at full stuff. I had a tiny bit before and if I went slow enough I could avoid it. Now it’s Ez. I am thinking I should have chose the option to move the front axle forward an inch.

Question is, since the rear is 1” higher, what would you think of adding a 1” zero rate to the front and using it to move the axle 1” forward? I recall the ORD zero rate was capable of that. Any reason not to do that? Aside from a longer front drive shaft, still running the stock shaft, not sure how much extension is left in it, are there any other things I should be aware of when moving the axle 1” forward? Any idea if the springs will “settle”? I know they can lose arch via a regular beating, and over time, but shit, the stock rears were in there for 35 years and probably lost 1/2” at most.
 
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The one thing I would advise, is to look at steering geometry, especially if you have cross over so that the drag link won’t get into the springs
 
I do have crossover and can see what you’re talking about. With steering all the way to passenger and on the passenger side, I have 1.5-1.75” of clearance between the drag link and the spring…on level ground, 2” if wheels are straight. If I subtract an inch for the zero rate, I would have .5-.75 of clearance on level ground. That end of the drag moves with the axle, the pitman end has lots of space. Is 1/2 to 3/4 enough clearance?
 
When I had a tall leaf pack, mine would hit if I articulated it. Had a shim in with it. Had to do some special math to fix it
 
Just to be clear, the fender openings are not the same front to rear on these trucks, so that might not be the way to measure the lift/ difference front to rear. The fender openings are taller in the front and shorter in the rear. So with the same lift the front measurement would always be taller.
Also the 4.5" shackle is 1/2" longer than stock but will only net you a 1/4" lift.
 
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Cheavyk10 said:
Just to be clear, the fender openings are not the same front to rear on these trucks, so that might not be the way to measure the lift/ difference front to rear. The fender openings are taller in the front and shorter in the rear. So with the same lift the front measurement would always be taller.
Also the 4.5" shackle is 1/2" longer than stock but will only net you a 1/4" lift.
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I measure the front to rear hight difference of my truck at the lower body seam. Since there is no body design curves at the lower body seam it is even all the way across.
 
Yeah, the height of your spring pack is going to be the biggest concern with adding a 1" zero rate. I know I wouldn't be able to make my high-steer work if I added one to my ORD springs in the front.
 
I didn’t think the wheel well openings were the same front to back, but I was looking for the net change, not total lift height. it looked pretty level before, maybe a tiny bit of sag in the rear. Now the back is definitely higher, very obvious. an Inch in the front would get me back to what I think looks level, albeit the rear would still be a bit higher than the front.

I don’t think you are getting net lift if you measure anywhere except the center of the axle to some point or any point above it. If it was level after the lift, anywhere across the lower body seam would work.

But the main question revolves around the pitfalls of moving the axle forward using a zero rate. It looks like I would have an inch of clearance between the t
drag link and spring if I used a 1” zero rate. I see they also have a 1/4“ plate to move the axle forward as well.

Can anyone give me an idea of the clearance gained at the rear of the front fender well as a result of moving the axle forward an inch? I have a 4” lift with 35’s and it just barely rubs at full stuff, turned to pass side.

Currently how it sits. Rides great, looks a little “jacked up”.

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You don’t have to move the axle forward with the zero rate. It has 3 holes I think, front/center(stock)/back. The extra inch up should help the fender clearance too.
 
I had 3” Ez rides and a 1” zero rate on prior to the upgrade, centered position. Rubbed about the the same as it does now. Up and forward an inch would for sure solve the rub, but I‘m not sure moving it forward would decrease the drag link to spring clearance as much as the 1” lift does.

I see they make a 1/4“ plate to move the axle as well.

What about a longer shackle? OK, thinking about what I just said, that would change the pinion angle.

Damn, knew I messed up not ordering the springs made to move the axle forward to begin with.:angry1:
 
Yeah, not sure about the overall thickness of the pack like others said. I can only add that I ran 1.5” forward and another zero rate at the rear 1.5” back. Beat the piss out of it. My new ORD leafs put the pin 2” forward so I’m not using the zero rates anymore. The rear 56 got flipped, so those zero rates are on the shelf to lol
 
Assuming you don't want bigger tires, lowering the rear would be better than adding even more height to the front. Do have have a shackle flip? If not, you can lower the rear with a longer shackle.

An option that hasn't been discussed is redrilling the springs. ORD leafs are super tall, so this would be very time consuming, but you could move the front axle 1/2", 1", anything in that range.
 
Now that I post that, isn't drilling a new hole in the spring perch a viable option? How much axle movement can this accommodate?
 
Blue85 said:
Now that I post that, isn't drilling a new hole in the spring perch a viable option? How much axle movement can this accommodate?
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I moved mine an inch doing that. Don't remember if there was room to do much more.
 
Interesting option of drilling a new hole. For some reason I was thinking there was more involved from a design standpoint, at least when ordering new. Like the center of the leaf pack would be 1” off center as well, or something along those lines?
 
The u-bolts will be goofy and top spring plate would need a hole no? Move it over to match where the u-bolts are needed?
 
That's correct. The whole spring would be designed a little differently for the offset. Here's some threads discussing spring drilling: https://ck5.com/forums/threads/redrilling-leaf-springs-thoughts.276918/. https://ck5.com/forums/threads/bilstein-7100.333486/page-3 Possibly only the main leaf would have to be drilled and all the other leafs could move forward? It does seem a shame to booger up a brand new set of ORDs. Almost a better idea to sell them and order another set with the offset.

But, here's some pics of moving the axle with perch drilling. https://ck5.com/forums/threads/trashed-my-springs-oops.269606 You just put a new hole in the spring perch and a matching hole in the top spring plate and then the U-bolts clamp it down normally. Just make sure the center pin is still well within the clamped section between the U-bolts. Seems like 1" would be safe. Also pretty easy to go back to stock if you want.
 
Personally, I wouldn't even think about drilling the springs rather than the pads on the axle or using the 1/4" relocation plate. It seems like my experience has told me that spring steel doesn't play well after heat treatment. I also wouldn't want the extra hole. I feel that spring longevity could suffer. Just my .02.
 
It looks like lowering the rear would be the better option to level your rig IMO. Your minor front rub could probably be resolved with a little trim in the wheel well, it's not noticeable if you do it right!
 
I could go back to the stock shackles in the rear… if I still had them, chunked them with the old rear springs still attached. I don’t think I would attemp redrilling the springs. The lower lip at the rear of both front fenders has been self adjusted, one side prior to my ownership one not, both prior to the ORD springs. The fresh rub was low in the middle of the inner pass fender well. Wheels were turned hard right with front right tire dropping into a ditch while tuning off of a dirt road onto a gas line. Hit it a little faster than I should have not realizing how deep the ditch was. A little faster than creeping, but not much.

Probadly going to run it as is until spring. I’ll just try not to stuff the front wheels in the meantime. I have put about 250 miles on the new springs so far. From I80 to old logging roads and everything in between. Had a friend drive it, jeep guy, he was impressed, said it just “glides over bumps like a Cadillac” .

Wish I would have sprung for these springs when I first lifted it. Backe when they were $200 less per set. :(
 
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