ORD zero rate with 2.5” rear lift blocks?

[89 jimmy]

I currently have a 2.5” lift on my 89 Jimmy with front springs, and tapered lift blocks on the rear. Would I be able to use a 1” ORD zero rate on both the front and the back? I’m sure the front is fine, but what about the rear blocks with a zero rate? Can I do it? I know a 4” lift would be the easiest solution but I would rather just stick with what I have and a total of 3.5” of lift with the 2.5” lift I have now with added zero rates. I’m only running 32” tires now, and possibly go with no more than 33’s. Truck is a DD. Thoughts?

 

[shady]

It'll work

 

[89 jimmy]

Isn’t it kinda like stacking blocks in a way?

 

[sweetk30]

you need a set of u-bolts / work on both spring packs to install zero rates . . . then have a block and zero rate .

if you want 1" more just buy a new rear box kit from a lift kit company that has the u-bolts / blocks in it already for a 1" taller lift height block and swap and be done faster and around the same amount of money .

nothing against zero rate units here . they work good for specific area's .

and adding a set to the front go for it in this use .

 

[skunked]

Isn’t it kinda like stacking blocks in a way?

Generally not a good idea and I'd avoid it personally. Just use the correct blocks....

 

[imiceman44]

Isn’t it kinda like stacking blocks in a way?

If you drill the block and bolt it in with the zero rate you will be fine

 

[nvrenuf]

I think I'd find some 3.5"-4" blocks for the rear.

 

[89 jimmy]

Ya, that would probably be the better option. I have avoided a 4” lift kit because many people have said with a 4” lift that I would have to shim the T-case, trim the exhaust to clear the front drive shaft, longer rear drive shaft, vibration, etc. Is this all necessary for a 4” lift? If I could eliminate all those things by staying with 3.5” lift I would definitely go with that

 

[rampage]

4” isn’t a magical number where you start having issues. Saving 1/2” isn’t going to guarantee that you won’t have problems. Plan on making corrections.

 

[wheels87k5]

Ideally you'd want to replace (lengthen) your rear driveshaft with any lift. Is it really necessary? Maybe not for the smaller lifts from 1" to 3". But no matter how you look at it, you're still getting less contact with the driveshaft splines with any size lift. It seems the cutoff is 4" but YMMV. I've seen 4" lifts that still had enough contact that it didn't cause any issues. Is it safe to run? Not IMHO. But I've also seen where a 4" lift on other K5s needed the driveshaft lengthened and still had vibration problems. Then they had to spend more for the CV style driveshaft. It can get costly.

 

[venevidivicci]

What about the shackle flip kit to get rid of the block all together. With the stock shackle its 2.5” lift or they sell the 4” lift too. You could go with a slightly longer shackle or a 1” block from there with the stock springs. That way you would get better articulation and ride quality with the stock springs. And if you wanted to lift it more later on you or the next owner would be set up nicely.