Outboard Rear Shock Mock Up - Need Input

[Art'74]

Please look at the pics and tell me your input. As the title says this is just a mock up. FYI - 13" travel shocks, 6" up travel (from measurements where springs would go negative) and of course 7" droop.

I like to hear your opinions on addl. items needed, placement and any other input (pro or con) that you would like to share.

Your input always moves me in different and better directions on this build.

Thanks!

 

[Art'74]

Couple more pics (if more pics would be helpful, let me know and I will provide)

 

[mrk5]

Nice work! How much lift do you have then?

The only thing I noticed is there enough clearance between the shock body and spring plate on compression?

 

[Art'74]

Thanks for the input. Yeah I tried to take that picture to show it cleared but the picture didn't show much of anything but the top of the shock.

So yes it clears (as far as I can tell right now).

 

[Art'74]

Oops, missed the lift question. I have 56" springs off of a 1 ton chevy with a DIY flip so I am not sure of the lift. I am sure someone here can answer how much lift that provides.

 

[Greg72]

If it were me, I'd switch that upper mounting scheme so that the shock eye ran front-to-back instead of side-to-side. That would allow you to run a couple tabs instead of a single stud (double shear is better) and it should help to relieve some of the stresses in those bushings when only one tire is stuffing. As it sits now, I think that setup is going to be really hard on the bushings....

You might also want to pull that upper mount in closer to the frame so that the tire doesn't hit it when it's stuffed hard.

 

[mrk5]

Greg has some good points.

You could get tabs made for tubes, or make your own. Then run the upper mounts with tabs instead.

I would run the top in far enough so they would be inside the factory rear wheel tubs. I know my tires will scrub the inside of the wheel tubs on the rear. Unless you are planning to run spacers or shallow backspacing.

 

[Art'74]

Greg & Scott,

Great info.

Greg, I'll break out the plasma and cut out some tabs to sit on the sq. tbg. up top.

Scott, when we discussed outboarding before you sent some pics of ORD's set-up. Can you recall or did you measure how far off the frame rail their's stick out? From the pics it looked like they were inside the tub as you have suggested.

As you can see I don't have the body on so I can't measure that info. on my K5 and I am trying to get all of this done w/o the body in the way. If either of you could measure (or anyone else) or give me good estimate, I will correct my length outside the frame rail.

After I fab and tack up your input I will post more pics for more input and for others to see.

I love this place!

 

[mrk5]

From what I remember it's 6=8" from frame rail to the tub.

I didn't measure how far off the frame Stephen has his sub set up. But then it also has the top mount quite a way forward. That would also keep the top of the tire from hitting it.

 

[Art'74]

OK guys, I cut some new tabs and tried your input (I think I got it right?).

Please look at these and advise if this will be better on bushings, etc.

FYI - The angle of the shock is 20 degrees front-to-back and 13 degrees side-to-side just for reference.

And please provide addl. pros/cons for this mock up. I'd hate to get it all welded up and someone come up with a great idea.

As always .

 

[mrk5]

Looks good to me. I can't think of anything else.

 

[noahrob]

Looks great. One question though, why not orient the bottom mounts the same direction as the top mounts? If the top mounts will beat up the bushings if they are pointed front to rear, isn't the same true of the bottom mounts?

 

[Greg72]

Looks great. One question though, why not orient the bottom mounts the same direction as the top mounts? If the top mounts will beat up the bushings if they are pointed front to rear, isn't the same true of the bottom mounts?

The way I think of it, the axle can move in 3D space, so you need to have a pivot that allows for that motion.

1. The leafspring/shackle configuration allows the axle to move front-to-back slightly....having a bushing that runs laterally will allow for that motion and the bushing will rotate in that situation.

2. The axle can also articulate (one wheel up) which then requires freedom of motion side-to-side (the arc that the axle is traveling in). Having a bushing aligned like his new top mount will allow for that type of motion, without trying to flex and tear the urethane bushing out.

With a combination of both of those types of motion, the shock piston will also rotate slightly in the shock body, which will prevent torsional binding.