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Overkill????

mudjunkie 82

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I was checking out the new alloy axles for the dana 60's. I do trails and mud ,no rocks so do you think they would be overkill for what I do. They reccomend alloy u" joints for these so that will raise the cost above 800.00 for the whole set up :yikes:
 
A blown 540 and you are asking about overkill? :eek1: :haha: :haha:

I thought that was your middle name. :D
 
mudjunkie 82 said:
82"1 Ton- 540"Merlin BBC 35 Spline 60/14 FF,Both locked T400/205. 8" Superlift, 39.5x18.5 x16.5 Boggers or 44" Boggers. Depends how deep the Mudd is.

I would never have guessed that you even knew what overkill was with a sig line like this. :D
 
ran my rig all summer with no major breakage untill last week, The one guy we wheel with asked me to pull him out of the creek that was all shale and 2 feet of water. what he did not tell me that the heep behind him that was buried big time was hooked to him! I hit the skinney pedal big time and snapped an inner and outer shaft on the pass. side of my 60. I figured while I have it apart i might up grade the axles
 
Considering the engine you have... yeah you'll prolly need some bling shafts. I notice the Bobby Long demo'd his axle snapping machine at SEMA... I guess the results were..

Stock Dana 60 inner - 8,300 ft. lbs. before failure
Yukon Dana 60 35 spline 4340 - 11,000 ft. lbs. before failure

The D60 is a pretty beefy axle... 40% stronger than stock is even beefier. :) The yukons can be found pretty cheap too.. they tend to be sub-$475 for a full set, depending on where you get them. I have a set myself... just waiting for their 4340 super joints to be released before I run them.

j
 
LOL.. You have that 540 AND you are friends with Jerry.. You are concerned with overkill?? Thats Jerry's middle name! :thumb: :haha:
 
Emmettology 101 said:
LOL.. You have that 540 AND you are friends with Jerry.. You are concerned with overkill?? Thats Jerry's middle name! :thumb: :haha:

Actually Overkill is my favorite heavy metal band...has nothing to do with my rig... :p:

Hey Mud,
I'm surprised you're not eyeing out those 4340 shafts from Overson Engineering...or possibly some M300 shafts...they'll only set you back $2000. :doah:

Did you bust the ears...or snap a shaft???
I hear Yukon doesn't warrantee the ears... :(
 
JK5 said:
Actually Overkill is my favorite heavy metal band...has nothing to do with my rig... :p:

Hey Mud,
I'm surprised you're not eyeing out those 4340 shafts from Overson Engineering...or possibly some M300 shafts...they'll only set you back $2000. :doah:

Did you bust the ears...or snap a shaft???
I hear Yukon doesn't warrantee the ears... :(

Another shaft option that is stout is the D60 Birfs from Longfield!!! 300M shaft/stub, 4340 Bell... Turns up to 45 degrees... On the Longfield shaft testing machine, they coudln't break it. But they have broke a 35 spline chromo shaft.

Pirate Link


Pic:
 
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I’ve run 35 spline GM stubs cut down for the Ford 60, and OEM Spicer 35 spline (fat ones, not neck down) since April 2004. I had 38's until last December, and 42's since. 7100 pound rig with a tired 460. Recently I rebuilt a 469 with 9.5-1 compression, headers, and the X-Treme Energy 256 cam. It currently has a stock cam back in it until around Christmas due to aftermarket lifter failure. With the aftermarket cam it will make around 525 foot pounds of torque from 1500-3000 rpm, and (only) around 335 horsepower from 3500 to 4500 rpm. It sounds as if your engine is significantly stronger than my budget torque engine.

This past Sunday, I had a buddy weld all of the Spicer solid joint caps into the axles....several of the ears are getting sloppy. This should get me to the spring. I plan to buy Yukons, and I’d hope that the Super-Joints for the 60 are released by then...they’ve been promising them for nearly all of 2005 but they aren’t yet selling them.

Either way, if you romp on the big block, I’m sure you’ll deform the ears on stock axles. Jerry, from what I understand, Yukon offers a 5 year “no questions asked” free replacement warranty on the axles if used with alloy joints. IE: CTM’s or the Superjoints...if they ever get around to releasing them.

I don’t think it’s a bad investment when you consider that OEM shafts will run you around $100 for each inner, and $65-$70 for each stub. Say $330 for OEM vs. around $500 for the significantly stronger Yukon axles.

Roy
 
JK5 said:
Actually Overkill is my favorite heavy metal band...has nothing to do with my rig... :p:

Hey Mud,
I'm surprised you're not eyeing out those 4340 shafts from Overson Engineering...or possibly some M300 shafts...they'll only set you back $2000. :doah:

Did you bust the ears...or snap a shaft???
I hear Yukon doesn't warrantee the ears... :(
I'am not loaded with dough like you are :whistle: :rotfl: :rotfl:busted all four ears off :eek1:
 
Mud,

You have like a bajillion horsepower under the hood, I'd go with something stronger than stock. :D :laugh:
 
i love the birfield idea. if i could afford it thats what id run, you could back out the stops and get a better turning radius and still have more strength than superiors :D
 
mudjunkie 82 said:
I'am not loaded with dough like you are :whistle: :rotfl: :rotfl:busted all four ears off :eek1:

I warned yah about that motor killing that 60. :p:
$2000 would be a couple side jobs...I got one for yah. ;)

At least the Yukon's would be replaced when you break them. :doah:

It may be a good idea to look at Rockwells...I can get you a pair for $900.
Then you can sell your 60/14 combo..make some cash too. ;)
 
ORD's site has about the best description on axleshaft warranty. I think it applies to Warn's though:

"Damage caused by ujoint breakage is not covered. If you break a u-joint, the ears shouldn't distort to the point that a new joint cannot be installed. Sometimes a little dressing up with file may be necessary. If the ears are broken and there is an intact ujoint that you can send with the assembly, you should get a new shaft, IF they don't show signs of being beat up after a joint broke. Make sure you stop right away if you break a joint."


Not sure how Superior and Alloy USA handle their long length warranties.
 
Emmettology 101 said:
ORD's site has about the best description on axleshaft warranty. I think it applies to Warn's though:

"Damage caused by ujoint breakage is not covered. If you break a u-joint, the ears shouldn't distort to the point that a new joint cannot be installed. Sometimes a little dressing up with file may be necessary. If the ears are broken and there is an intact ujoint that you can send with the assembly, you should get a new shaft, IF they don't show signs of being beat up after a joint broke. Make sure you stop right away if you break a joint."


Not sure how Superior and Alloy USA handle their long length warranties.

Hummm....very interesting info Mike.

Remember how my ears got stretched...and the joint was still good.
But that was on those Mexican spicer shafts.
 

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