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OX or Detroit?

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Blazer79

1/2 ton status
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Hello.

I currently have a 14 bolt rear with a Detroit "Soft-Locker". It's been great. Now I want a locker for the front, but the thing is, my Blazer is still full time, so I need your help making a decision.

I was considering another Detroit for the front, but that would mean buying new Warn Premium hubs and possibly a part time kit (I currently have lockouts) ($767 at 4WP). This gets me close to the price of an OX or an ARB. I was thinking it would be cool to have a selectable front locker and retain full time until I have the money for my doubler. The OX locker for the Dana 60 is $943 at 4WP. I'm not considering ARB because I don't like the tiny hose and the seals going out after a while.

Now I would like to hear your opinions on the OX locker. Is it tough enough? I currently have 38.5 SXs. Anyone using it with larger tires? Any broken ones?

On the other hand, anyone using a front detroit while still full time and with lockouts?

Any opinion appreciated.
 
Blazer79 said:
Hello.

I currently have a 14 bolt rear with a Detroit "Soft-Locker". It's been great. Now I want a locker for the front, but the thing is, my Blazer is still full time, so I need your help making a decision.

I was considering another Detroit for the front, but that would mean buying new Warn Premium hubs and possibly a part time kit (I currently have lockouts) ($767 at 4WP). This gets me close to the price of an OX or an ARB. I was thinking it would be cool to have a selectable front locker and retain full time until I have the money for my doubler. The OX locker for the Dana 60 is $943 at 4WP. I'm not considering ARB because I don't like the tiny hose and the seals going out after a while.

Now I would like to hear your opinions on the OX locker. Is it tough enough? I currently have 38.5 SXs. Anyone using it with larger tires? Any broken ones?

On the other hand, anyone using a front detroit while still full time and with lockouts?

Any opinion appreciated.
Click to expand...

The Ox sucks. I have never heard anything good about them and really don't see them much. Arb's last a long time if installed correctly. A friend of mine was running an ARB since around 1998 and only had problems with it this year. That ARB probably had more offroading miles on it then street miles.
 
If you have selectable hubs, you dont really need the part time kit, it just keeps you front driveshaft and axle from turning, but if you have lockouts, axle shafts can turn however they want if its unlocked.
 
I love my Detroits, but if you want selectable... ARB is the way to go. If you don't want to deal with the extra complexities of adding a compressor etc, they have those mini-gas cylinders that buggy guys use now...

j
 
Everyone I know with the ox likes it. they look tough also everyone I know has never had any trouble with them
 
A friend of mine has quite possibly the very first D30 OX unit in his Cherokee. He has gotten years of mostly reliable service out of it. Up until lately the only real trouble he had was when the cable got too close the the header. :doah: :doah:
Lately it's not been engaging every time like it used to. I'm suspecting that it is just plain tired. He has used it HARD. He's currently on 35's. How that 30 stays together is beyond me.

I wouldn't shy away from the ARB just b/c of the hose. There are several good options for dealing with that issue. I prefer the simplest, use the stock hose with the so-called "Instant Fittings" Look thos up on mcmaster.com If you ever tear up a hose it's a toolless fix if you carry some extra tubing (can get that from mcmaster too).
You need OBA anyway. :D :D
 
have heard no problems about the ox unit and have installed a few. VERY BEEFY unit. Very thick diff cover and everything is built tough. if i had the cash id go for an ox unit. if you have trouble finding anything from someone, try www.expertoffroad.com I work for them, much better and cheaper than 4wp's.
 
Thanks for all your replies.:bow:

It's a really tough decision because:

1) OX can work well if properly installed and includes a tough cover
2) ARB can work really well and includes onboard air
3) Detroit is maybe the toughest and cheaper, but maybe not the greates for full-time

Plus, now someone mentions the e-locker, that's another choice to consider. Any more feedback on this unit? Who sells it? How much?

Thanks again.
 
Is the OX locker still being made? I thought i heard the company was gone? Some one clear that up for me please. Thanx

Edit...ok i did a quick google....http://www.ox-usa.com/. Thanx me...hehe.

BTW ive never heard any bad on a OX. Id hit it. :haha:
 
DETROIT baby. why go with questionable not quite as good, reliable or as strong and more expensive with more parts to fail? Did I miss anything. Other than being able to unlock it (which you have locking hubs I take it) there is not really a good reason to go with anything else.
 
I've heard that argument that you can always unlock a hub with a Detroit, but I've never actually seen anyone do so, ever.

Another point to consider is that an unlocked hub isn't the same thing to a Detroit as when one side is freewheeling. An unlocked hub puts a Detroit out of force balance and has great potential to damage internal parts. Ask anyone who's ever broken a locking hub or drive flange with a Detroit in the diff.

Word I got on OX is that 4wpwhores bought them.

There are 2 different E-lockers that I know of. One is a Tru-Trac (all gear positraction) when 'unlocked' and the other is a clutch-pack posi. Yota TRD's have an open diff/electric locker option,, but those only fit yotas. I dimly recall that the yota diff is a stolen design from someone else, but I do not know if those are in production or not.
 
ntsqd said:
I've heard that argument that you can always unlock a hub with a Detroit, but I've never actually seen anyone do so, ever.

Another point to consider is that an unlocked hub isn't the same thing to a Detroit as when one side is freewheeling. An unlocked hub puts a Detroit out of force balance and has great potential to damage internal parts. Ask anyone who's ever broken a locking hub or drive flange with a Detroit in the diff.

There are 2 different E-lockers that I know of. One is a Tru-Trac (all gear positraction) when 'unlocked' and the other is a clutch-pack posi. Yota TRD's have an open diff/electric locker option,, but those only fit yotas. I dimly recall that the yota diff is a stolen design from someone else, but I do not know if those are in production or not.
Click to expand...


Yeah, I wouldn't bother unlocking just one hub to make a vehicle with a front detroit turn better. Either put the t-case back in 2wd (the detroit will stay unlocked) or put on hydro assist :D. Having only one hub locked is just asking for trouble and won't help you turn as much as you hope.

As far as the Eaton E-lockers, Eaton makes true open/locked style differentials called the E-locker and it is electronically actuated unlike pneumatically like ARB's. The Tru-trac and clutch style are both posi's, not lockers.
 
Guess I'll be going with the Detroit. It's cheaper and great quality. I do have hydroassist, but I'm guessing the Blazer want's to go straight not because you can't steer your tires but because both are spinning at the same speed. Best I can do is shift into unlocked (NP203).

Thanks for all your input guys. I really appreciate it. :bow:
 
38377k5 said:
snip....
As far as the Eaton E-lockers, Eaton makes true open/locked style differentials called the E-locker and it is electronically actuated unlike pneumatically like ARB's. The Tru-trac and clutch style are both posi's, not lockers.
Click to expand...
There is now a version of the Tru-Trac that has an E-lock option. So it's a gear type LSD (WAY better than a clutch posi) when "open" and spooled when locked. AIR it uses locking fingers like the OX and ARB.

The E-locking clutch type posi doesn't have fingers. It uses some sort of cam/ramp system to radically increase the 'spring' load on the clutch pack.
 
ntsqd said:
There is now a version of the Tru-Trac that has an E-lock option. So it's a gear type LSD (WAY better than a clutch posi) when "open" and spooled when locked. AIR it uses locking fingers like the OX and ARB.

The E-locking clutch type posi doesn't have fingers. It uses some sort of cam/ramp system to radically increase the 'spring' load on the clutch pack.
Click to expand...

Yeah, they call it the Electrac. Reviews about it seem mixed and I would get something else.
 
a friend has the ox in his jeep and it has worked great.the locking pins are huge and if i ever get the cash i will be putting it in my d60.
 
Does anyone remember if any of the off road mags have done any testing on an OX locker? If so, what issue? I have been on the fence about getting one for sometime.
 
they install an OX locker in a Dana 44 under an older F-150 in Petersen's 4wheel and offroad. september 2002. The truck has a V8 and 37" tires. Here I'll type in something from the article: What Broke To try and torture our OX we put our Atlas T-case into Front-wheel drive, locked the OX, engaged the E-brake, put it in gear, and violoently spun the front tires in loose soil while steering back and forth. The result was a spit-out 297 U-joint cap. we pounded it back in and installed a new clip and went for a short vertical climb with substantial throttle. It popped the cap out again because the shaft ear had been hogged out and the cap had spun again. But no locker problems. If you plan to really abuse your dana 44 you'll probably want to upgrade to full circle clips and chrome-moly shafts.
 
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