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Paasenger side spring pack off center?!?!?!?... (PIC)

fad2blk99

1/2 ton status
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Charleston, SC
This was my first outting w/ my new front spool and crossover steering. On the way off the trail I imediately noticed my steering wheel was about a 1/4 turn from being center. Before hitting the road, I checked all my TREs and they were in good shape. Upon closer inspction at home I noticed this:
1978Spring_off_Center.jpg


Anyone else have this problem? I thighten my u-bolts to around 130-150 ft/lbs, the same I've always thighten them to. I'm thinking about welding some angle iron to the u-bolt plate (which needs to be beefed up anyway) to help keep the spring pack centered... Is this a good idea? I may just take the zero rates out (again).
 
The center pin isn't broken. The spring packs’ center pin is a bolt that attaches the pack to the zero rates; the center pin locating the axle is on the zero rates themselves and relocates the axle 1.5" forward. This unfortunately is what allows the axle to come off center. I haven’t had a problem with this before I got the D60. Not that the D60 is the culprit; I just drive a lot harder now that I got it. I kind of know where the axle got “relocated”…. I was coming over a steep climb (about70*) which peaked sharply and fell back off about 45* downward on the other side. As I crossed the top, the left tire went down in a wash out yanking the wheel hard left. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif In order to get out of that little predicament I had to give it some gas and, struggling against the front spool, force the wheel to the right and up and over a 2.5 foot shear bank (might as well been a rock). /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif The kids riding 4-wheelers nearby really got a kick out of that little show!

Anyway, I just wanna see if anyone else has this problem and what I can do to keep it from happening w/o loosing the zero rates up front.
 
Is that a shim in there?

Your problem IS due to the Dana 60. Didn't you notice that there are two bolts/studs that hold the spring plate down on a D60 front?

These are now canted at an angle due to that shim. They can't put the proper clamping load on the whole assembly as a result, and the problems are what is illistrated above.

Get that shim out of there, and your problems will go away. The front axle when you have a Dana 60 is NOT a place for shims.
 
I don't remember who but someone sells an angle spring plate, I don't remember cause it doesn't matter to me.
 
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I don't remember who but someone sells an angle spring plate, I don't remember cause it doesn't matter to me.

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Why even bother? Why are y'all running shims up there?
 
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I don't remember who but someone sells an angle spring plate, I don't remember cause it doesn't matter to me.

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Why even bother? Why are y'all running shims up there?
 
What am I supposed to do about caster angles (short of cutting and re-welding the yokes)?

Besides the deflection from the u-bolt plate should offset the mild slope of the shim.
 
The "deflection" is NOT offsetting anything, which is what I'm trying to tell you.

That shim isn't doing anything for you but minimizing pinion angle, and causing problems.
 
The caster angle is more important to me than the pinion angle. With poor caster angle the front wheels will lift the truck in a turn as the wheels turn into the ground instead of parallel with the ground… very scary! /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
 
Mine's the same way, although I don't have any zero rates/ shims, just a spring pack. Both springs angle in a little. It's been that way for 2+ years, I attribute it to having 2-1/2 wide springs in a space meant for 3", combined with the wheelin I do. My .02
 
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The caster angle is more important to me than the pinion angle. With poor caster angle the front wheels will lift the truck in a turn as the wheels turn into the ground instead of parallel with the ground… very scary! /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif

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You're screwing up your caster with those shims, not helping. Caster angle is important to me too. That is why my front axle doesn't have any shims on it.
 
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The caster angle is more important to me than the pinion angle. With poor caster angle the front wheels will lift the truck in a turn as the wheels turn into the ground instead of parallel with the ground… very scary! /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

You're screwing up your caster with those shims, not helping. Caster angle is important to me too. That is why my front axle doesn't have any shims on it.

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So whats your caster set at?
A little spring "shift" would be normal in your application as Fred said you have a 3" space and 2.5" springs.
 
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Do all Chevy 1 tons have 3" wide springs or just in your case?

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all 4wd Chevy's come stock with 3" springs, all aftermarkets are 2.5". And it looks to me more like your zero rate twisted rather than shifted.
 
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Mine's the same way, although I don't have any zero rates/ shims, just a spring pack. Both springs angle in a little. It's been that way for 2+ years, I attribute it to having 2-1/2 wide springs in a space meant for 3", combined with the wheelin I do. My .02

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and bushings generally make up for that... /forums/images/graemlins/screwy.gif
 
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Mine's the same way, although I don't have any zero rates/ shims, just a spring pack. Both springs angle in a little. It's been that way for 2+ years, I attribute it to having 2-1/2 wide springs in a space meant for 3", combined with the wheelin I do. My .02

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and bushings generally make up for that... /forums/images/graemlins/screwy.gif

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the spring pad is still 3" wide /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif All Chevy 4x4s that I've ever seen the front springs angle in towards each other. Its not noticeable a stock rig cause the stock springs are flat. Any type of lift spring and you instantly see it, I always have to use a pry bar to get the second center pin in.
 
My caster is off because of the zero rates. Moving the axle forward 1.5" tilts the pinion down as it follows the curviture of the spring. The shim corrects it perfectly to zero degrees caster angle. Believe me, I would not run a shim if I didn't have to.
 
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