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Paging Fordum.... NP435 question....

wasted wages

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here's the deal.....

My NP435 stopped shifting...I cant get the lever to engage any gear....

Last night I start to pull the top cover off of the transmission to replace the shift fork pads ( thinking the nylon shift fork pads broke and fell off )

When I pulled the shifter out of the top of the housing,,, I found a roll pin had sheared off allowing the tip of the shift lever ( the actual piece that engages the shift rails ) to roll 360° on the shifter.

the shaft has a few o-rings on it to absorb vibration... and the roll pin stakes the two parts together....that's it's whole purpose in life....

I don't see any reason not to stake a new roll pin in and then take the mig welder and make this into a one piece shifter.....:dunno:

cause when the pin shears,,,,,, your not going anywhere.....

Discuss.....
 
Never worked on a 435 that I remember. Its certainly possible, I've worked on a lot of stuff.
I have done or contemplated mods like that many many times. Always remember parts are there, and things are done the way they are for a reason. Whether that reason fits with your use of the unit is up to you.

For instance, most bush hog mowers have the driveshaft yoke held onto the input shaft with a grade 2 bolt. When it shears, as it always does sooner or later, the smart operators replace it with the same bolt.
The stupid ones use a grade 8 because they don't want to break down again. So, the next time something breaks, its the input shaft or the gearbox.

However, often people will put in a grade 5 or 8 on a temporary basis knowing that they will be cutting thick grass and wanting to avoid nuisance shears.
But they put the soft bolt back in after to avoid damage if the mower hits something solid.

On the other hand, sometimes doing a mod is good even if it does make things wrong. For instance, a few years ago, I welded the tie rod adjustment sleeve on the left side of my pickup.
I tried replacing it, and tightening it really tight, but the threads kept stripping out. The tie rod ends were worn slightly, but still good. I adjusted the toe in exactly, and welded it.
This year, I replaced the TREs and the sleeve. They were both worn out, and I lost nothing by welding it.

In your case, you need to determine if you can, exactly why they used a pin instead of making it one piece, and if you need to take it apart someday.
Say to work on the pivot point.

Hey, you wanted a discussion...........:D
 
20130218_122038_resized_zps15d94fea.jpg



In the picture you can see the sheared pin......and the o-rings on the shaft.....

I don't see any reason other than vibration isolation that this cant become one piece.....

one more rattle in the cab ain't gonna matter..... :)


BTW..... .73 cents at home depot for two pins to fix it...
 
20130218_122038_resized_zps15d94fea.jpg



In the picture you can see the sheared pin......and the o-rings on the shaft.....

I don't see any reason other than vibration isolation that this cant become one piece.....

one more rattle in the cab ain't gonna matter..... :)


BTW..... .73 cents at home depot for two pins to fix it...

As far ss I know, this is the same design as a 465 and it does needto have some movement.
 
Why does it "need" to have some movement??? Most guys with Camaros and Mustangs replace the factory shifter with rigid ones.

Martin
 
I don't see why it would hurt it. Those o rings hold back fluid and help with vibration up the shift lever. I'd hate to have that happen on the trail. I just wonder what made them break in the first place. Maybe too Much movement inside the two pieces, which will be alleviated by welding them.
 
Without seeing more of the system, its hard to say.
But the only two reasons I can think of from what I see, is if those two pieces have to come apart to get something else apart, or if the O rings dampen the vibration of the outside shifter shaft so that it does not go down into the transmission and either cause more wear on the shifter pads, or make it want to walk out of gear.

It does seem odd for it to break. If there were room, which there probably is not, I would suggest replacing the roll pin with a grade 8 bolt.
While the pin is probably stronger, its also harder and more likely to crack from stress.

Or, depending on the hardness, you might carefully drill out the holes for a larger pin.

Either way, unless you weld it, I would replace that O ring.......
 
stuck some new orings on today... drove a new roll pin in and stuck it back together...... shifts like it was brand new.....:woot:

threw the other pin in the glove box....:whistle:
 

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