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paint advice

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89k5350

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I know there have been alot of paint discussions on here but I'm kinda stuck. So I'm starting to restore my 87 step side and want to have a decent looking paint job. And 2 years ago I rattle canned on some rustoleum paint without clear or primer, it was sprayed over the old paint. Now it doesent need to be show quality but I want a good looking paint. So should I buy a gallon of the rustoleum thin it and spray it through a gun? And if I did could I just do some sanding or scuffing to the old rattle paint and spray over then clear it a few times? Or should I used a catlyized paint. But I am still going to do some moderate wheeling and don't need a show piece.
 
I've never done the rustoleum treatment, but with 2 paint jobs on there, I would consider removing them and starting with a sound foundation to build upon. Of course if your not worried about the longevity of it, just sand it with 180, and give it another coat of the rustoleum.
 
yeah, you'll wanna get into that factory finish some.. catalyst will more than likely eat into the air-dried enamel...

properly done, you can just put catalyzed paint over the factory paint and get away with it... primer or a sealer is nice, but I've done it over properly prepped factory finishes, and been fine... I try not to, but it has happened..

but paint will be anywhere from $100 to $400 depending on what paint..

whereas, a gal of rusto is like, $75... you could probably get away with just douching over the rattlecan with a thinned rusto and not have it freak out..

but more importantly than that, the ****tier you prep, leaving paint edges, lot's of featheredge cuts, etc, your WAY more likely to have issues...

in other words, kind of figure a good even cut to it all... the rattlecan should come off pretty easy.. just get it into the factory paint a bit, just so everythings been hit, no shine.. use course scuffpads for all the joints, etc.. makes it go quicker.. and you can do a bunch with a electric palm sander and some effort.. granted, a DA kills it.. but it's doable...


:popcorn: Ryoken's bodywork message of the day... :popcorn: and :popcorn: shine is the debil! :popcorn:

your paint is only as good as the surface below it... :waytogo:

make sure you get about 10% to 15% reducer in at a minimum.. helps it flow a bit.. I usually like to see a 6 count drip or so off the mixing stick for sprayed rusto...

you want it thick enough that it sprays ok thru a gun, and just leaves a bit of orange peel after a couple coats... not balls flat, and not a Sunkist..

depending on color change and how thin you mix it, you could be putting on anywhere from 2, to 5, 6 coats...
 
well I do wnt some longevity but before all I did was rattle can one coat. This time I wanna spray out of a gun and clear a few times and have a clean glossy finish. Where/ what brand paint is good to buy?
 
any prefer grit to start with to get thru the old rusto to to the factory paint. At the moment I've got a 6 inch air sander and a 4 inch electric
 
all the major paint manufacturers have an economy line in urethane.. just find your local "autobody supplies" and see what he carries recommends.. if they carry Dupont, it would probably be Nason.. that's what I run on Mutt..


100_0500_zpsb7914fc0.jpg




just a single stage, wet on wet urethane.. no clear... you don't need that.. just adds to the cost.. modern urethanes don't fade...


but find your local guys and see what lines they carry.. PPG, Sickens, glasurit, DuPont.. heck even Sherwin Williams has reasonable single stage uro's out...

my orange Nason runs like $125 for a gal, and the pint of hardener...
 
89k5350 said:
any prefer grit to start with to get thru the old rusto to to the factory paint. At the moment I've got a 6 inch air sander and a 4 inch electric
Click to expand...


well, I will say this.. just remember there is a HUGE difference in how any bodywork is sanded.. anything that vibrates, or is a DA is a sand finish to prime/paint.. even a square electric.. but straight out spin in circles, rotary is a whole nother ball game.. that's a grinder. you can strip with it, but you can't "sand a layer off", it digs...

you canpanel to raw steel, than sand em with a da, palm sand and prime/paint
, but you can't take a sanding disc on a drill and expect to get a topcoatable surface..

you could use something like that for an initial cut of the rattlecan, to get the bulk off, than finish off a sander...

for a final sand prep for just paint over it.. 320 good bite for single stage, yet doesn't need tons of mil's to fill scratches...
 
i appreciate the advice and I will be getting mud on the truck and goin down dirt roads would it really not be necessary to clear it? I think I'd feel better if it was cleared but if say otherwise then I'll take your word. Nice looking rig by the way
 
check the edit.. spelling like a 1st grader today.... :doah:
 
it's just as strong with out it.. same thing, just one has color pigments in it. they're both just a uro resin...

in the old days of Centari and enamels, solids would fade.. lacquer fades under a car cover... :haha: you needed the clears for the UV protection.. now all the modern single stages have it in em too...

that orange is a bit over 2 yr's now, and it looks like I just sprayed it...
 
but also keep in mind, it is an economy line..it's a tough good finish, but it's no Glasurit that's for sure.. :pimp: but it's also, 1/5th, 1/6th the cost..
 
ok well that helps with cost. I just remembered I do have a square electric sander that just viberates so that would work to sand the factory finish before I spray the paint on? And if so what grit would I want to end with before I spray the paint on
 
320.. you can cut initially with something as burley as 80 to 100 on the palm to get an initial cut thru on the stuff.. just make sure you go progressively finer till you end with 320 for paint.. I used to do a quick 80, than 180 the rest of the rattlecan off, than hit with a 320 thoroughly to put the right etch to the old factory paint.....
 
I used a Nason 2k (made by Dupont) to paint mine. It was tan when I bought it, rattle-canned it snow tiger camo as a teen, then flat black a few years later. After about nearly a decade of sitting it looked terrible, so I painted it with an urethane based paint hopefully for a final time. With most of the urethane based paints you need a good mask, I bought a quality full face one. This was my first time spraying anything this big and I am very happy with how it tuned out.

Blazer Paint sidec.jpg
 
That blue looks good! I've been considering painting my truck that color of blue. Do you know the name of that color, or the paint code?
 
there anyway you guys could post your pics right on this page? im not a paying member and would really like to see it. thanks
 
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