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Paint Drying Outside in High Heat/Humidity?

ARAMP1

ARAMP1

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I've been painting a bunch of misc parts lately before putting them on the truck to protect against rust (and it looks nicer too). Anyway, I painted my starter two days ago with Dupli-color Hi-Build Fleet Coating. Anyway, I went out to bring my starter in and it's still wet enough that I could rub off the paint. It's been in the 100s as early as the sun coming up, and down to the high 80s at night with no precipitation (however humidity has been getting over 50%. Think this has something to do with it? I finally just brought the starter inside where it's cooler and a lot less humid. Any ideas?
 
It takes a lot longer to dry at those temps if you apply it then. Your best bet is to apply it when the temps are in the low 80's outside (nighttime or early morning) and when the part is the same temp, that way it adheres and dries the fastest before it gets too retarded hot outside. But you should still wait a week before putting it on to get proper paint adhesion and chip resistance.
 
put them in the garage and put a fan blowing across the parts... you'd be amazed at what that air movement does for drying...
 
Recon! said:
It takes a lot longer to dry at those temps if you apply it then. Your best bet is to apply it when the temps are in the low 80's outside (nighttime or early morning) and when the part is the same temp, that way it adheres and dries the fastest before it gets too retarded hot outside. But you should still wait a week before putting it on to get proper paint adhesion and chip resistance.
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Thanks! Good info. I haven't found the correct flywheel yet, so I'm really not in a rush. It's sitting inside on the bar right now. My wife is wondering if it's going to stick to the countertop. We'll see.

ryoken said:
put them in the garage and put a fan blowing across the parts... you'd be amazed at what that air movement does for drying...
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If I did that, I'd have metal shavings and dust embedded in it. :doah:
 
guess that little gem of info will go unappreciated amongst the masses...
 
So Paul, with high humidity the solvents in the wet paint can't evaporate? i'm guessing that's why artifically creating air flow over the painted part helps in those conditions?

Rene
 
with high humidity the solvents in the wet paint can't evaporate? i'm guessing that's why artifically creating air flow over the painted part helps in those conditions?
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youz a smart young man, correctamundo..... :bow:

not applicable all the time, but helps a ton when feasable....
 
Just a good guess. Your recomendation for airflow across the part twigged it for me. It's good to have a painting pro here... :bow:

Rene
 
thanks for the props.. it helps in any chemical drying app, from fiberglass to clearcoat to bondo to gelcoat...

like I said, not always viable tho... and heatlamps for cold temps...
 
oh, and it doesn't take a ton either... just set a fan up 5 or 6' away blowing across the top of the part on low or med...
 
Well, thanks gents! It's only been a couple hours and I can already touch the starter and not leave finger prints.

Here's a crappy cell phone pic.

Freshly Painted Starter.JPG
 
My God, it just may be my monitor, but that looks like the exact shade I have been looking for!
Its a perfect Chickensh*t yellow!!!:D

And Ryoken, I'll have you know, I'm a pretty good painter myself. In fact, I just finished one last week, and I used all the right paint numbers and stayed in the lines...:laugh:

Sorry folks, silly mood. Bunged up my back fishing yesterday, and just found a pain-free position.
 
Back when laquer was still sold to paint cars,they had all sorts if trouble getting it to dry right in humid weather--often it would "blush" ,which means moisture gets trapped under the paint and never gets to escape,and the paint wont adhere and you'd have water puddles trapped under it that made blisters or "zits" as the body guys used to call them..we sold many different thinners & redcers for hot weather and high humidity conditions.

One time I mixed a gallon of Dulux enamel for a shop,and they painted a Plymouth Duster with it,a btight orange color,on a very hot humid day--they left the car in the cooler shop while painting it,then after a half hour they put it outside to dry--in the hot sun!..they used 77S hardener in the paint and it dried so fast it wrinkled up like a giant fig!...I recall the Dupont rep having quite the argument with the shop owner when he refused to reimburse him for the paint and materials,because it wasn;t the fault of the products..
 
diesel4me said:
Back when laquer was still sold to paint cars,they had all sorts if trouble getting it to dry right in humid weather--often it would "blush" ,which means moisture gets trapped under the paint and never gets to escape,and the paint wont adhere and you'd have water puddles trapped under it that made blisters or "zits" as the body guys used to call them..we sold many different thinners & redcers for hot weather and high humidity conditions.

One time I mixed a gallon of Dulux enamel for a shop,and they painted a Plymouth Duster with it,a btight orange color,on a very hot humid day--they left the car in the cooler shop while painting it,then after a half hour they put it outside to dry--in the hot sun!..they used 77S hardener in the paint and it dried so fast it wrinkled up like a giant fig!...I recall the Dupont rep having quite the argument with the shop owner when he refused to reimburse him for the paint and materials,because it wasn;t the fault of the products..
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you can still buy lacquer, it just cost a fortune now... there really is no purpose in shooting in lacquer anymore either... unless your showing in a specifac class that really dictates it's use...... tho you can achieve the same look in urethane and noone would know and it's WAY more durable...

i had a side customer i used to restore Olds 442's and such for up to about 5 yrs ago that insisted i shoot his stuff in lacquer... it was running almost $300 a gallon at that point.. tho you save with no catalyst...

one trick I learned decades ago with lacquer for blushing was that unless it was the driest of day's, you could eliminate any blushing issues by just putting a heatlamp to the panels after shooting for a 1/2 hr or so, cooks any moisture right out of em... we did that about 90% of the time on the resto's, just to be safe...

I certainly don't have fond memories of the enamel days.. rough time in the body biz... not a very user-friendly product.. nothing worse than shooting a metallic with Centari...
 
Also something I noticed painting some stuff the other day, after blasting it I sprayed some brake parts cleaner on it to clean it off. Well apparently this cooled it quite a bit and condensation set in immediately, it was literally dripping wet with water.:(

I used the heat gun to bring it back up to temperature and make sure it was nice and dry. Seemed to work rather well.:D
 
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