Paint idea and questions

[JBerno]

Alright, I sanded my entire Blazer down to the factory paint/primer. I did not find any bondo on the truck

I had a guy take a look at it to get me a price for paint and here is what I was told, evidently the body (front DS fender and both side of the bed sides have small waves/ripples in them) he told me that the body work to straighten these areas out could get real pricey but is needed if I want to have a nice paint job. He told me although you cant see these areas with the primer on it you would definitely see them once it was painted. The Zolatone has an "orange peel" texture to it and is not a "glossy" paint so he said you probably would not even know these areas were there if I used this. I had a 78 Blazer about 12 years ago that I painter with it and I really liked it

So here is my thought, I want to use the Blazer for "light" wheeling, so I am thinking about having it painted using Zolatone on the outside with a complimenting color of regular paint on the inside. I want it to look good but do not want to be afraid to take it off the pavement. Eventually I want to get a roll bar/cage for it, some nice tube bumpers etc.

Here are a couple of colors that I am thinking about

Midnight Blue, maybe have the interior painted the color of the smaller flakes



Charcoal Gray, maybe a light gray interior color with this one



What do the masses think on this?

The Zolatone says that it covers 110sf per gallon, how many square feet am I looking at for the outside of a 72 Blazer? How much should I get to make sure I get good coverage?

 

[76zimmer]

You state you sanded down to factory primer...how do you know? It may not be factory, but even so, any bodywork/filler should be under the primer coats and on the metal itself. Zolatone sounds like a Rustoleum type paint job, where you brush it on or roll it? The guy quoting body refinishing is correct in that smoothing out large flat wavy panels can be time consuming, as opposed to refinishing an already flat smooth panel. IF the panels are not smooth and flat, you will see those waves in almost any type of paintjob.

 

[JBerno]

You state you sanded down to factory primer...how do you know?

When I got into the "factory" primer it was where I went through the original paint job, more often than not when I hit the factory primer I was into metal also, it was originally the Olive Green, the PO had it sitting for about 14 years before I bought it. He had a neighbor of his shoot it with some thick ass paint when he noticed it was oxidizing from sitting in the AZ sun, kind of just to protect it.

Zolatone sounds like a Rustoleum type paint job, where you brush it on or roll it?

It is a sprayed on application

http://www.zolatoneaim.com/20series.php

Technical Specs



Product Description

ZOLATONE 20 Series is a polychromatic, modified nitrocellulose coating with a flat background color under accenting fleck colors. This coating system provides an unusual decorative and camouflaging effect that is also durable, flexible, and simple to maintain and repair when needed.


Uses

ZOLATONE 20 Series is designed for use with Zolatone basecoat primers over ferrous metals, fiberglass, plastics, woods, ceramic tiles, and glass.


Benefits

V.O.C. compliant, ISOCYANATE AND LEAD FREE. No special spray equipment is needed. Excellent adhesion and flexibility over properly primed surfaces. Ready to use, no reducing or thinning needed. Can be both clear coated and painted over.


Application

Apply by spray only. Do not use airless spray equipment. See product label for detailed spray instructions.


Mixing

Stir only; DO NOT SHAKE.


Technical Data

Weight: 8.38 lbs./gal. Coverage: Up to 125-175 sq. ft./gal. depending on substrate, particle size, color, and application method.


V.O.C.

• Coating less water - 680 gms./liter; 5.66 lbs./gal.
• Material with water - 483 gms./liter; 4.03 lbs./gal.

Dry Time

• Dry to touch -- 2 hours air dry at 70°F and 50% humidity.
• Dry to light uses -- overnight. Full cure achieved in 5-7 days.
• Force dry -- force dried at 140°F in 30-60 minutes. Allow 30 minutes flash time if using forced air or baking. Can be clear coated (optional) after cooking.

IF the panels are not smooth and flat, you will see those waves in almost any type of paintjob.

With the flat paint that was on it you couldn't really tell that it had these wavy areas, Zolatone is a flatter, non-glossy type paint so I don't think they will be as noticeable as say a "nice", "shiny" paint job

 

[kaharshs]

I'm not sure what your really asking here. Nice paint jobs aren't cheap. The zolatone is not going to give your a smooth looking surface if that's was your going for. I'm assuming is a hammered finish.

 

[ryoken]

finally...

I don't have first hand experience with the product.. from the specs, it looks like it's a water-based fancy binder lacquer... not necesarily something that would lend it's self to being a tough finish... UV resistent either, but I'm sure it's been added..

that being said, go for it.. sounds like your content with the cost, finish, etc.. just make sure to keep us updated on how it holds up...


just a word of warning... obviously the dude will follow the directions, but just be leary of the "sand it real nice with 600 grit" type prep...

adhesion is a function of the deepest cut a certain mil of paint will fill... in other words, the roughest grit you can get away with, without having sandscratches, will afford the best adhesion...

obviously any finish with some orange peel or texture to it will fill/hide this even better...

 

[JBerno]

I may be going a different direction on this now. I will keep you posted