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paint prep progress

Kain

3/4 ton status
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Mar 16, 2011
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Lubbock Texas
ive added the tailgate from the junk yard, sanded till i turned grey.
i think i am done with prep(12 days is enough)

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more pics

and i think ill convert the back window to manual,all the money on new parts and it still works like crap

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man for some reason the top is baby smooth,but the body i couldn't get that smooth.
anyone know why?
 
looks like a paint layer under that primer?
do you know everything that is on top of the sheetmetal?

generally you should try to paint over only one structurally sound paintjob, and there are a lot of dependancies on that working well also, I suggest doing some bodywork research in a few threads....Ryoken has covered this many times and he's the best!
 
man for some reason the top is baby smooth,but the body i couldn't get that smooth.
anyone know why?


not smooth in what way? like roughness to the primer coat, or waviness in the panel?

Blocking and priming, and more blocking is the only way to make things straight and smooth
 
Prep is the most important step! What are your long term plans sell it in year or two, keep it till it falls apart, pass it to you kid? If you are keeping it long term then I say sand it till you see metal. Pull those locks, handles and trim and as stated Ryoken is master in the subject.

Check out my album of the prep and paint work on the DP Suburban http://s73.photobucket.com/user/Metrodps/library/Dants%20Peak%20Suburban

This was painted with Martin Senour Paint (NAPA).
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just want some color on it its my mud truck, Just my luck though i buy a mud truck then Texas goes threw the worst drought in history.
 
not smooth in what way? like roughness to the primer coat, or waviness in the panel?

Blocking and priming, and more blocking is the only way to make things straight and smooth

the top is smooth as glass the body is as smooth as its going to get :whistle:
 
I spent another 4 hours sanding its real close to the top
We shqll se ,in the morning i drop it off.
 
that could be an issue when prepped with 180... that's a primer grit.. paint is generally applied over anything from 280 to 600 depending on if single stage, base/clear, lacquer, yada..

not that it can't be done.. I shoot gelcoat on the boats over 180 all day long... but that's a LOT of mils...

in other words... if you put a regular single stage paint job over 180 grit, you are pretty certain to have sandscratches show thru... unless you dump a BUNCH of coats on..

just a word of warning... :deal: :D
 
well, I just wanted you to be aware... make sure you at least tell the shop.. tho they're gonna know by looking at it..

they will prolly opt to just throw a couple coats of sealer on first if that works in that budget.. that'll make it doable..
 
do what you can.. your not doing much of a grit change so you don't need to be excessive..

but even with that, keep what I said in mind... and definitely let them know how it's been prepped... they will still probably want to throw a coat or 2 of sealer on...
 

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