CK5
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paint prep

i was going to suggest that but he's got that factory paint that doesn't like to stay where it was applied, so he's probably better off going to metal now and doing it right than going through the trouble of doing it twice next year.

<font color=purple>ANYBODY LOSE THEIR JEEP????????
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I JUST FOUND ONE UNDER MY BLAZER!!!!
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Jeff, I grew up in the dad's a painter household. There are basically three ways to strip a car, and like mentioned, they are chemical stripper (easiest and messy), sanding with a DA (little more time consuming, fun and dusty) and the old sandblasting (easy, messy, but not chemically, though it is more destructive to other parts. I have never heard of anyone warping the metal with a sandblaster.) ????
IF you have the kids around all the time the stripper may not be such a good idea, unless you keep the water hose handy. Which you would need to do anyway to wash away all the chemical crap. As far as it being illegal in some areas, they make some that is enviromentally safe and its not that much more expensive.

But to get down to business, I'd just use the DA with some 60 to 80 grit paper. Be carefull not to dig into the metal. Those DA's will get up and kick some a$$. I personally like sanding. I have always found it fun. Call me wierd I know. But really, unless you are doing a show care there is really no reason you need to strip the blazer down to bare metal. If you have the surface preped well, the area clean, dust free, lint free, humidity and temp need to be right and allow each coat to dry properly for the specified length of time and what not (according to the manufactures rec's) you should be fine. Then dont wash it for 30 days with anything but water. Keep the water spots off of it. Lots of direct hot sun is best. Then if you really want to make it shinny, (providing that you added an extra coat or 2 of clear, you can then go back and wet sand and hi-speed buff it out to a mirror image.
The key thing here is the attention to detail on the prep area being clean, spray the place out with water to anchor the dust. Proper cure times, and the key number one thing.......
the type and quality of paint. Lacquer is real easy to shoot, dries fast and all that jazz, but isn't that good a paint. Enamal is a little stronger but requires more attention to detail, but produces better results. Then you have others like Polyeurethane and others like that whicg are a whole new ball game in themselves. Hope this helps a little.

**WARN**ing, Something winching this way comes!
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<a target="_blank" href=http://www.mccords.s5.com/myk5/index.htm>NashvilleK5</a>
 
we could prolly talk him into doing imron
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last's forever and only needs to be buffed once every 10 years or so
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shame it will kill you if you breathe it


<font color=purple>ANYBODY LOSE THEIR JEEP????????
blush.gif

I JUST FOUND ONE UNDER MY BLAZER!!!!
cool.gif

wink.gif
wink.gif
</font color=green>
 
Yeah, My dad use to shoot that stuff and had to get his lungs pumped like every 3 months or so. NASTY STUFF but it does take a licking and keeps on stickin!!!
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**WARN**ing, Something winching this way comes!
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<a target="_blank" href=http://www.mccords.s5.com/myk5/index.htm>NashvilleK5</a>
 
hey thanks guys!
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when I saw 7 reply's overnight I was thinkin what else could I be told, but it really was informative... LOL and yes you are right I'm definitely very novice at this.

I need to take the top coat of paint off, but the reason I'm going down to metal is that I'm spraying it with <a target="_blank" href=http://www.zerorust.com>zero rust</a>, and it adheres best to metal.

I do have small pieces down to bare metal with my wire wheel, and it has not rusted yet. I'm imagine that in dry old WY I'd have a little longer window before it rusts, but I'm sure you are right that window won't be very big. if I end up having to spray a primer then I'm going to rethink whether I'm going to use zero rust or not.

<font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>link to k5's</a>
 
Consider the following...

Jeff:
Two comments if I may:
1.) Zero Rust does NOT have to go on bare metal to adhere as long as any remaining paint is tightly bound and shows no rust beneath it. One of ZR's beauties is that it's forgiving as to the amount of surface prep required.
2.) If you haven't ruled stripping out, please check out RemovAll's new water based Stripper, which beats the heck out of the old aircraft strippers which contains methylene chloride that makes it so nasty and messy. This new stripper is amazingly effective, so easy to use AND without the caustic residues that using most strippers results in. You don't have to be comcerned with either your kids or the house pets running around while you're doing the job.
Tips and other info are available on our website.
HTH
WK Irish
See ya' on the net at www.zerorust.com
 

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