Paint Question... Hey Ryoken...

[dirtygoat]

Thought you might have some input and I could use some advise...

So, I've been looking around at paint for the bus... I stopped in and talked to the people at Wesco in Auburn today... They told me to talk to Forrest Paint in Kent...

I went there and the guy showed me their Quixnamel 16P primer... He said he could mix it so it is really close to the Krylon Italian Olive I have on the Blazer... Also, that being a primer and mixing enough clear in to make it a satin finish, I would basically use this as a 1 step system... He said it's really "hot" and will dry fast and will be really tough in the long run... Anybody ever use this stuff???

Here's a link to their site...

http://www.forrestpaint.com/

I've looked around the net and couldn't find anything about the 16P Primer... He gave me a spec sheet and it's made from Xylene... I don't know anything about paint, but this guy says this stuff is the cats ass...

 

[ryoken]

never heard of em.... is it a catalyzed primer? enamel or urethane? how much a gallon?

 

[dirtygoat]

He said it's an enamel... $28/gal...



Here's what's on the spec sheet... Might as well be Greek to me...

vehicle...phenolic modified alkyd
volume solids...27-33%
weight solids...43-52%
weight/gallon...8.8-9.9lb/gal
viscosity...68-KU
gloss...3-8@60 reflectance
coverage...457 sq ft/gal @ 1 mil dry
recommended dry film...1.5 mils dry
VOC...567-605 gm/L
%VOC by weight...47-57%
%VOC by volume...66-72%

Characteristics...

Forrest's 16P Primers are non-lifting, fast drying, Phenolic modified, rust inhibitive alkyd shopcoat primers designed for ease of use and rust resistance. It is possible to weld through 16P Primers. These primers may be used by themselves or topcoated with a variety of topcoats. This coating may be applied as is or reduced slightly with Xylene or Toluene.

Use as primer for clean, mild steel surface where good rust resistance and topcoat-ability are needed. Excellent for steel buildings, interior of exterior, mill machinery, or as a primer for transportation equipment. 16P Primers have been used with alkyd, acrylic, vinyl, epoxy and urethane topcoats.

Dries quickly in 10-15 minutes at 70*f and 50% humidity.

Phenolic resin provides extra lift protection against strong solvents, which lift many alkyd primers.

Contains no lead or chromate pigments that can cause serious health problems.

 

[ryoken]

god freakin dam it... I just had a huge post to ya get nuked by firefox.......... grrrrrrrr.........

i'll rewrite it in a bit..... grrrrrrrrrrrr.............

 

[ryoken]

alrighty, let's see if I can remember what i typed....

these posts have gotten difficult, not due to the tech, but my recommendations.. I was never the chemist type body guy, but I know a fair amount.. I was always more of an application type body guy...

I see it's an alkyd resin... that was, and still is a very widely used binder in alot of enamel industrial coatings... it is either made using air dried resin, or chemical .. what the non-catalyzed resins use to air-dry it are various air drying oils... this is what makes it a "hot" batch...

one thing old enamel is notorious for is oxidizing, chalking out.. so hopefully it has some good UV additive in it... that would be in the full msds sheet...

couple other points.... enamel dries to a very a hard surface, which in turn makes it prone to stone chips and cracking... the hotter the batch, the more brittle the surface... keep this in mind on surfaces that may see some flex... also iirc, you'll be putting this over galvanized areas too... your mechanical prep of those surfaces should be aggressive.. enamel and poor adhesion can be bad ju ju...

I'm not gonna, especially considering the surface area your working with, tell you not to use it... there are certainly better products, polymerized resins, etc, but that can get pricey in a hurry when dealing with large projects..

as with many things, you usually get what you pay for when it comes to paint supplies... just a word of warning... but hopefully the product lives up to the salesman's hype... worst case and it fails, ya break out the sander and put a coat of something else on...

 

[Fordum]

god freakin dam it... I just had a huge post to ya get nuked by firefox.......... grrrrrrrr.........

i'll rewrite it in a bit..... grrrrrrrrrrrr.............

Ryoken, as the king, or close to king, of long posts I run into the same problem.
My problem is by the time I type the whole thing, spellcheck it, and correct a couple of wrong words, the forum has logged me off.

When I hit post, it tells me to refresh and log in again.
But, when I do, all that I typed is gone.

So, if its a real long one, I do it a couple of times as I write, and always just before I hit post.
I highlight all the text, and hit Ctrl-C. Then, when I lose it, Ctrl-V brings it back.

Highly recommended.

I know you knew how to do that, but like me never thought of it at first.

 

[ryoken]

thanks.... this is Firefox itself crashing, not a token expiring or anything..... thought i had it fixed, but it started happening again.. program crashes and goes to a restart prompt...

since then i've been trying to remember to do a right click "copy" every now and then on big posts till i get it straightened out... i used to have to do that on AOL ion's ago...

I learned many moons ago about refreshing my build thread page, as i would let that window sit open all day... make a big update that night,then lose it, repeat...