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painting drums?

ashman

ashman

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I just bought 2 new drums for my rear brakes and I'd like to keep them looking decent if I can. is there a good way to paint them where it will actually last a bit, or do they just get too hot?

I figured I'd try using some self etching primer and engine paint unless there is a better suggestion. the engine paint is supposed to be good to 500 degrees, but I have no idea how hot drums get in normal use.
 
Depends on what you call normal. Day to day city driving, they will get in the hundreds of degree range.
Exhaust manifold type paint will usually stand up.
High speed panic type stops can ramp them up into the low thousands briefly.

Disks are even worse. I have seen them glowing dull red at night after a hard stop, and there are instances of the disk actually melting under racing conditions.

I have seen painted drums on trucks and cars before. Red seems to be a common color.
No idea how long the paint had been on there, or how hard it had been driven.

And, of course, I don't think you would have much luck painting the inside........
 
Ask a ricer........:haha:

images
 
I painted the drums, on my old 10b rear, olive drab w/ this stuff:

KRY4293.JPG


It stayed on for month's.... :dunno:


I also used this to clean the drums, tho:
AU_AircraftRemover_Quart_L.jpg
 
Fordum said:
Depends on what you call normal. Day to day city driving, they will get in the hundreds of degree range.
Exhaust manifold type paint will usually stand up.
High speed panic type stops can ramp them up into the low thousands briefly.

Disks are even worse. I have seen them glowing dull red at night after a hard stop, and there are instances of the disk actually melting under racing conditions.

I have seen painted drums on trucks and cars before. Red seems to be a common color.
No idea how long the paint had been on there, or how hard it had been driven.
Click to expand...
I'll see if there is a cheap source for exhaust paint around. I'm not looking to go colorful or anything, just for protection. I've been painting most of my suspension system with ford grey. I just want something light enough to see if there is something leaking onto it, but not attention grabbing.

And, of course, I don't think you would have much luck painting the inside........
Click to expand...
damn. :doah::haha:
 
Truthfully, most of us have mis-adjusted rears....and i doubt they get that hot that often.

The engine block paint should hold up for a good long time if you prep right...but header/manifold paint would be even better.
 
thanks beast. yeah, I'll have to clean them with something. right now they are covered in some sort of oil from the factory.
I'm hoping for something that will last more than a couple of months, but we'll see how it goes.
 
For longevity, you want 1000*, or better.... :whistle:

Mine woulda lasted longer, but I only had the axle in for a few month's.
Then, I went 3/4 Ton... :woot:
 
as with anything, it's all money....

as with engines, no "miracle in a can" rattlecan will hold up as well as a quality catalyzed paint... piss coat of zinc with a couple coats of Imron will hold up FAR better than anything you can buy in a rattlecan..
 
hmmm, never thought of that... not sure how that would hold up.... Merc was powdercoating some of their marine exhaust stuff for awhile, so I guess it's feasable..
 
Merc was powdercoating some of their marine exhaust stuff for awhile, so I guess it's feasable..
Click to expand...

Not sure how good a recommendation that is........

Now if OMC had been doing it..........
 
http://www.klasskote.com/


I've used this stuff for years on my R/C model boats....

It dries hard as glass...and I haven't found anything that will cut it once its cured....

Not acetone,,,not MEK,,,not 70% Nitromethane....

I have never used it as a heat coating though....but I would bet it holds up better than rattle can stuff.....
 
ryoken said:
as with anything, it's all money....

as with engines, no "miracle in a can" rattlecan will hold up as well as a quality catalyzed paint... piss coat of zinc with a couple coats of Imron will hold up FAR better than anything you can buy in a rattlecan..
Click to expand...
yeah, I'm looking to compromise here. I'm not willing to spend the money to get a "real" paint job, but don't want to waste my time cleaning and rattle can painting them if it's just going to flake off in a couple of months.

I guess what I'm really asking is what is the most likely outcome of a rattle can paint job. I guess a related question would be is the high temperature rattle can stuff worth the money, or is it basically the same stuff as the regular paint and a marketing gimmick?
 
Coat in anti-seize (outside only of course) . Ive heard, and want to try this on my headers, theres a thread on here about it. Coat headers with your choice anti seize (nickel, copper, aluminum) preferebly a lower temp rating, start your engine with hood open and you and anyone else very far away as the smoke is very bad for you. Once it cooks all the liquid out you have a nice header coating that wont chip (from what i hear, note ive never done this). Possibly same on the drums? Hit with torch and wear a gas mask? Lol
 
I often paint the drums and rotors on my cars (black, not ricer yellow). I just use black engine enamel from a rattle can and it lasts for years *if* you let them rust up a bit before you paint them. The paint doesn't hold up very well if applied to fresh metal.
 
ryoken said:
God, I hope your kidding.. OMC is cr@p...
Click to expand...

I go a long way back.

In the 60s and earlier, you had your OMC and Mercury camps worse than Ford and Chevy ever thought of being.

Dealing with outboards of course.
I was firmly in the Johnson/Evenrude camp. You could not get me in a boat powered by one of those black things.
At that time, Johnson rated their motors according to the industry standard for IC engines.
In other words, at the powerhead. If you bought a custom built truck engine rated to produce a certain horsepower, it would be rated at the crank.

Mercury rated their motors at the prop. Which meant that head to head, a merc would outrun a Johnson.
While this was a more useful rating, we considered it cheating. But, in most cases, they had one characteristic that made up for it.

I have no idea why, but most of the time you could crank a Johnson and be a long ways away by the time the Mercury ever cranked.

I used to outrun 30 and 40 horse Mercurys all the time with my little 10 horse as long as we started with both engines off.

When I bought my Ranger bass boat, it came with a 150 horse Merc. I asked the dealer if he could swap it for a Johnson or Evenrude. And told him why.
He was a factory trained Merc mechanic, and promised me that it would crank.
I told him I would try, but the first time it got me off and left me, I was dumping it in the river.

I must say, other than a few times at first when it failed to crank, it has always done well.
And the times it failed, was my fault.

Now, of course, its all changed. If I had to repower today, I would probably get a Yamaha, but I would look really hard at an E-tech.
 
The engine paint will work well, so will exhaust manifold paint, they also make brake paint.

The key here is to make sure you heat this stuff up.

I put my drums on a propane heater for a while, that paint looked good 2 years later when I took the drums off.
 
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