hey guys I been searching the forums and didn't find a good answer on applying a new coat of gel coating to the tops on these trucks. My 1975 top is in ok shape for the age some of the seams could use a little epoxy filler in them and a couple edge cracks but other wise nothing seems to be delaminating. What do you guys recommend on coating this top with before painting over with a satin gel coat finish? I would also like to keep the texture it has now so what would be the best way to sand it without taking the texture out?
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Painting fiberglass top
- Thread starter Sleblanc
- Start date
X2!! From what I have read on here and the advice he has given me when I have asked Ryoken is the man you want to talk to on it.
I did my 72, I had some glass work done, had it gel coated(not required), went over the whole thing in 180 on a DA. then I use shutz body texture, played with air settings and technique, applied it to the inside kind of dry and light to simulate the oem, and put it on heavy outside with 50% overlap. Once dry I painted it gm white. inside I used reactive reducer outside I cleared it with a satin clear. looked tits bango
image url upload
image hosting services
image url upload
image hosting services
Last edited:
man that top came out awesome. how much was the materials for the work or if you could message me the exact stuff i need for it and then what type of black paint i would need to run over it. i would think a satin should be good but thought maybe a gloss would look good.
I did the paint myself, had the fiberglass done at a boat shop as the top had a 12" circle hole in the top.
Between the glass repair, gel coat, shutz, paint material and window seals I have about 1700$ labor was probably 12 hours or so.
3m makes the rocker texture, I bought one of their shutz guns which was 120$ more than others. But it's all the paint house had so I said the hell with it. On the inside you use base coat with a reactive reducer, it's common on the underside of hoods, it's not uv stable like clear coat, but it's the inside, not a lot of uv exposure. Clearing the inside would of been tricky because of the sides, reactive reduced base coat is considerably easier to layout.
The outside was base coat over the shutz same as the inside, then a satin clear coat. Gloss would of been to much shine in my opinion so I opted for satin.
Between the glass repair, gel coat, shutz, paint material and window seals I have about 1700$ labor was probably 12 hours or so.
3m makes the rocker texture, I bought one of their shutz guns which was 120$ more than others. But it's all the paint house had so I said the hell with it. On the inside you use base coat with a reactive reducer, it's common on the underside of hoods, it's not uv stable like clear coat, but it's the inside, not a lot of uv exposure. Clearing the inside would of been tricky because of the sides, reactive reduced base coat is considerably easier to layout.
The outside was base coat over the shutz same as the inside, then a satin clear coat. Gloss would of been to much shine in my opinion so I opted for satin.
Nice work, and a great looking rig!
That's to bad, sorry to hear that
Getting my top done is this years project. I am leaning heavily towards letting a shop do it...no experience with fiberglass repair or gelcoat...
Most places do that, and that was my plan originally but the bedliner product is pretty heavy and I wanted to try something new.
I work for Epic Doors which manufactures high-performance fiberglass entry doors. We evaluated several paint suppliers including TruCoat 623, Sherwin Williams Polane 2K Acrylic, and Aquasurtech D200.
We were looking for an environmentally friendly, single component water based paint that was super durable, had great adhesion and laid down smooth.
Based upon our evaluation we selected TruCoat 623. It was much more environmentally friendly than Polane 2K and is a single component and TruCoat had better adhesion than D200 and was priced better.
We were looking for an environmentally friendly, single component water based paint that was super durable, had great adhesion and laid down smooth.
Based upon our evaluation we selected TruCoat 623. It was much more environmentally friendly than Polane 2K and is a single component and TruCoat had better adhesion than D200 and was priced better.
I just did mine. Came out way better than I anticipated, since I've got no fiberglass or paint experience. I waiting on my window rubber, but when I get them in I'll post up some completed photos. I used raptor liner with an adjustable gun and 15% fast reducer for a finish that looks kind of like really rough sandpaper. That raptor liner is incredibly easy to work with...way easier than paint. With changes in pressure and the nozzle adjustment, you can get any finish you want.
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/fiberglass-top-repair-filler.340499/
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/fiberglass-top-repair-filler.340499/
