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parking brake cable on a 78k5

ntx78k5

1/2 ton status
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Oct 22, 2004
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I lifted this thing 4 inches and now the stock cable is too short. If I run it above the driveshaft it bounces on it while driving, and if below it rubs on the shaft. Any options besides leaving it off (its off now)
 
Asked the parts guys at autozone that exact question. Kid looked at me like I had and ear in the middle of my forhead.
 
I'm looking at getting some custom ones made at Inline Tube for my 72. For now I am running without an e-brake and praying the main system doesn't fail. Yeah, I couldn't find anything longer that would fit either.
 
Scrubby said:
I'm looking at getting some custom ones made at Inline Tube for my 72. For now I am running without an e-brake and praying the main system doesn't fail. Yeah, I couldn't find anything longer that would fit either.

I feel your pain.
 
I had my problems clearing the leaf springs and not the driveshaft. There is a company that can make custom cables. ALl you should really need is a longer tensioner cable to go to the brackets on the rear of the frame. I didn;t have problems until I put the 6" springs on.
 
I have a similar problem with my lifted K20 long bed. I cut off the e-brake brackets and made a little extension and welded it on so its a little lower and thus closer to axle and works fine.
 
I am still using the stock parking brake cables on my blazer - 5 1/2 inches of lift on the rear and using large GM calipers that require extra cable. How did I do it? First, totally reroute the cables along the frame. Use fewer cable guides, and take a more direct route. Next, I lengthened the adjuster using a piece of allthread and a connecting nut. Finally, I used two short pieces of angle iron (maybe 2 1/2 to 3 inches long) and lowered the back brackets that hold the cables before ging to the axle. The brackets do not extent below the spring eye.

I have adjustablity and they function correctly.
 
mouse said:
I am still using the stock parking brake cables on my blazer - 5 1/2 inches of lift on the rear and using large GM calipers that require extra cable. How did I do it? First, totally reroute the cables along the frame. Use fewer cable guides, and take a more direct route. Next, I lengthened the adjuster using a piece of allthread and a connecting nut. Finally, I used two short pieces of angle iron (maybe 2 1/2 to 3 inches long) and lowered the back brackets that hold the cables before ging to the axle. The brackets do not extent below the spring eye.

I have adjustablity and they function correctly.

Thats a damn good idea. :bow:
 
ntx78k5 said:
Asked the parts guys at autozone that exact question. Kid looked at me like I had and ear in the middle of my forhead.
Why ofcorse, most of them have no clue about vehicles, if it's not on the computer screen infront of them, they think it can't be done. It's very rare today too run into a parts counter person that knows how too turn a wrench.
 
Yea I agree. Most who know how to turn wrenches make more money doing so.
BTW, your quote rocks. Growing up in FL and now living in TX near Six Flags I wish there was a tourist :hack: season.
 
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