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Parking Brake?

sstack

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Jan 9, 2005
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Central California
I have a question for you guys with suspension lifts.

What did you wind up doing about parking brakes? I've just installed the rear springs of a 6 inch lift and I really don't think the cables are long enough. I don't want to loose the parking brake if I don't have to.

What did you guys do?
 
there is a bracket on the frame that the cable runs through. I lowered it and it made the cable long enough. I took 2 of the metal sleeves that goes through the middle of a spring bushing, cut about 1/4 of the length off, and used the 3/4 length side as a spacer, ran bolts through, and it was good to go. Hardest part was grinding the rivits that hold the bracket on, off the frame.

http://image01.webshots.com/1/7/20/10/37372010iEQIws_ph.jpg

If you go to that link, look at the top right, and u can see a pic of what I did.
 
Could always get a T-case brake, or use a line-lock, or maybe even some of the buggy cutting brakes that lock. I like the hydraulic e-brakes alot more than cable anyway, more holding power, no adjustment, and you can even lock down all 4 tires.
 
do line locks leave a draw on the battery while engaged or only while the truck is switched on. i'd like to have one anyhow for burn outs, but the truck sits alot, so no draw is important too.
 
sstack said:
Wiskey Bent, T-Case brake? Who makes those?
http://highangledriveline.com/

looks like this

4846Picture_798.jpg
 
Whats the point of having a line lock for a e-brake, the e-brake is for if the hydralics of the brakes fail the EMRGENCY brake will hold you, so a line lock will do no good if your brakes fail. just my .02
 
I have a line lock right now and am going to keep it as a secondary, plus I have my shift rails done so I should be able to make tight turns. A line lock works good if its your only source of e-brake and you need to get out to check out your line or some other quick use. I dont recomend using one for long periods of time.
 
depends on how much articulation you have. Then again it may be your limiting strap, until one breaks :D
 
I think a line lock would be better than nothin since it will hold you if say your parking paw broke in the trans.
 
Sounds lik one more thing to add to the never ending list of stuff I didn't know, and don't want to find out the hard way.:thinking:
 
Here's my opinion:
1.Line locks- expensive, time consuming to hook up, better suited for rails (cutting brakes) 2.t-case locks- expensive, time consuming to hook up, best suited for trucks with disk brake conversions on the rear axle (unless you bought the right rear calipers which will let you use a cable e-brake) 3.good old cable e-brakes- free, pretty much already hooked up, you just need to extend a bracket to make it work.
 
Safety First!

Parked on a good hill on the side of a mountain with a big scarry cliff to fall off of and roll for 15 minutes. When you stop your truck and get out, ALWAYS - shut it down, mash that e-brake, and put it in gear(stick) or park(auto) and hell! put a rock in front of the tires. I put mine in park once and jumped out as my stuck started to leave. The t-case was in neutral (bumped it when I was getting out). Thanks to my cat-like reflexes I saved my truck.
 
"cat-like reflexes" or the absolute lack of survival instinct that would allow you to get into a 7000lb truck rolling down a hill. :screwy: :haha:
 
You probably want to leave the mechanical e-brake in the truck....just in case. Nothin more fun than a 6000 lb truck that loses it's master cylinder (done it). The newer trucks (mid 80's ish? - feel free to answer this for me) had a different e-brake cable set up than the older ones, so they don't have this problem as much as us old timers ('75). I need to do this me-self before i rip something off the frame. At least I know someone else has the same problem.
P.s. A line lock does not use battery power unless you have the redneck line lock and jam a 2x4 between the seat and the brake pedal (done it).
 

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