Hello everyone my friend recently purchased a 1990 K5 Blazer came with 37in Tires stock Gears 3.43 and a 6 inch lift complete mall crawler. We’re converting it over to 33’s and a 4 inch lift so we can plow his driveway do some wheeling in the summer and drive it occasionally. My question is when going from a six to a 4 inch lift I see three options; getting 4 inch lift springs front and back such as tuff country, skyjacker, superlift, or Putting a stock rear blazer spring in the front getting another stock rear blazer spring and do a 4 inch shackle flip (I do worry about driveline angles) or getting a 2 or 3 inch lift spring with a 2 1/2 inch shackle flip, Or some type of combination of the two front to back. I understand it the less arch the spring has the more flex and the less it’ll be worn out. I appreciate your personal experience and recommendations. Price is of course of some consideration. I don’t want to do 4 inch lift springs in the rear and then later realize I would be better served with a shackle flip. I’m also interested in the ride quality of the shackle flip vs Springs. thanks again ( I don’t have posting privileges to post in the suspension section yet)
CK5
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Part time plow k5 lift reduction 6’to 4’ questions
- Thread starter Utred
- Start date
your just fine posting here .
what brand of plow ? as some are a LOT more weight than others . i run old school fisher plows and there a lot more than western or meyers in the weight department .
i run a 3" tuff country hd front spring and am happy with it empty or with plow on . truck is a k30 1ton with 350/th400/205 combo . i run 35" tires no problem in the non plow season . winter i swap to my 31.5" tires .
for you and 33" tires i would prob go 3" also and maybe a 2.5" flip kit rear and possible zero rate to bring it back up a tad if needed . or just do a 3" block .
and for stock rear springs go with a 5 leaf pack . gets you a good spring but not super stiff.
1973-87 rear spring part # is 22-553 in the aftermarket world. 1850 lbs per pack capacity . American bolt size for the bushings. not dump truck but now super soft .
1988-1991 blazer rear part # 22-815 in the aftermarket world . 2000 lbs capacity . metric bolt size for the bushings .
were are you located ? there might be a member near by with parts for sale ?
and the 3" range keeps you from major drive line angle work or c/v shaft for the rear . 4" -up tends to be c/v shaft rear for less highway vib problems.
what brand of plow ? as some are a LOT more weight than others . i run old school fisher plows and there a lot more than western or meyers in the weight department .
i run a 3" tuff country hd front spring and am happy with it empty or with plow on . truck is a k30 1ton with 350/th400/205 combo . i run 35" tires no problem in the non plow season . winter i swap to my 31.5" tires .
for you and 33" tires i would prob go 3" also and maybe a 2.5" flip kit rear and possible zero rate to bring it back up a tad if needed . or just do a 3" block .
and for stock rear springs go with a 5 leaf pack . gets you a good spring but not super stiff.
1973-87 rear spring part # is 22-553 in the aftermarket world. 1850 lbs per pack capacity . American bolt size for the bushings. not dump truck but now super soft .
1988-1991 blazer rear part # 22-815 in the aftermarket world . 2000 lbs capacity . metric bolt size for the bushings .
were are you located ? there might be a member near by with parts for sale ?
and the 3" range keeps you from major drive line angle work or c/v shaft for the rear . 4" -up tends to be c/v shaft rear for less highway vib problems.
We have been in contact.
I have the 5 pack rear springs and 3 pack front springs (about 3 inches higher then stock) on my Just had to do it F.W.C popup Blazer.
I have the 5 pack rear springs and 3 pack front springs (about 3 inches higher then stock) on my Just had to do it F.W.C popup Blazer.
those poly plows can weigh more than full steel plows . . . and 6ft 6" is a bit narrow for full size trucks . and if you run 33" tires when plowing even straight it will be running over snow your plow dosn't touch .
but use what ya got . . . no problems.
dont be afraid to ask questions here we are a good bunch of guys .
but use what ya got . . . no problems.
dont be afraid to ask questions here we are a good bunch of guys .
Yeah my buddy bought the plow didn’t consult me but what’s done is done. So as far as 3inch spring lift vs rear and a 2.5 inch flip with zero rate which will articulate and ride better or is there not much difference and being that we don’t have the stock springs will I get more for my money just doing a 3 inch spring left or locating a used or new spring shackle flip in a zero rate ? Read info by the way guys thank you again
The springs were on my Blazer when I bought it, I have no idea about brand but probably just something made by a local spring shop. 31s clear with no problem. With the added weight of your plow you would probably want to add a zero rate as well.
I also have a couple of older Myers 7'6 plows complete with controls. I would want to keep one of them but the other would be available.
Keep in mind you probably have a dropped pitman arm and maybe a raised steering arm that may have to be dealt with as well.
Maybe post up some pics of your current front and rear suspension and we can all get a better idea of what you are dealing with.
I also have a couple of older Myers 7'6 plows complete with controls. I would want to keep one of them but the other would be available.
Keep in mind you probably have a dropped pitman arm and maybe a raised steering arm that may have to be dealt with as well.
Maybe post up some pics of your current front and rear suspension and we can all get a better idea of what you are dealing with.
CUCV2
5/4 ton fun
x2 what SweetK30 said. The 52" spring swap requires crossover steering. The plow setup and crossover would interfere with each other. Keep it simple.
Thanks if I go to a 3 in lift do I need to get rid of dipped pitman arm and raised steering arm? Also I tried to post in the parts wanted section but couldn’t I’m looking for a complete or near rear tailgate or the glass. Just seeing if you guys knew anyone. Thanks
3" is the top range for no steering correction needed and possible just drop pitman arm and stock on knuckle. good rear here on it from a guy who knows his stuff. https://ck5.com/forums/threads/stoc...robably-should-not-use-what-you-think.329820/
parts for sale or wanted = paid membership .
the 25 bucks here each year is so nice i dont even regret spending 1 cent on it . super nice people / brother hood family here .
parts for sale or wanted = paid membership .
the 25 bucks here each year is so nice i dont even regret spending 1 cent on it . super nice people / brother hood family here .
OK I’ll definitely do the premium membership seems like it’s totally worth it. So With a 3 inch spring lift can I leave those things in or just the drop Pitman arm? Thanks. Also Decided we’re going to get a new spring lift Either HD tuff country or skyjacker HD I have the tuff country ez rides but he has to occasionally plow, any significant difference in these two companies?
i run 3" tuff country HD front on my plow truck and am totally happy . and my plow is over 800lbs by its self . old fisher speedcast plow setup . you will be just fine with your combo . and only real difference in the reg to heavy duty is 1 extra leaf on the bottom . so if its to much for you pull the bottom leaf of each front spring . but i don't think you will have to .
and the drop pitman arm is the lesser of the 2 for correction . but you will have to get the lift done first and then check the pitch of the drag link to the rear and go from there .
and the drop pitman arm is the lesser of the 2 for correction . but you will have to get the lift done first and then check the pitch of the drag link to the rear and go from there .
