Patching vs. Replacement and types of welds

[GoAWOL]

The biggest hurdle today on my restore/build are the bedside panels (rear quarters). I cannot decide whether or not to replace or patch the existing ones and am looking for some experienced input/opinions.

Here are the details:

Option #1: I have replacement panels (Taiwan Repro) on hand but the metal is considerably thinner than the original steel and I cannot imagine a butt weld working without burning through the thinner steel and making my life generally hell.
Question: Can I overlap the steel and do a lap weld vs. a butt weld without the finished product requiring too much finish work?

Option #2: I have a line on a Blazer body that is relatively rust free that a guy is willing to sell me whole.

Question: Should I buy that body and take the decent bedsides off of that one and put it on mine? Keep in mind this is a 78 Blazer and mine is a full convert '74 so there may be differences in mounting points?

Appreciate any input on this as I am pretty much stuck at this point in my build.

 

[blazinzuk]

What type of welder? If a might welder get some .023 wire and practice practice practice. Even with cheap sheet Metal you can do a good job. I prefer the better body method myself

 

[GoAWOL]

What type of welder? If a might welder get some .023 wire and practice practice practice. Even with cheap sheet Metal you can do a good job. I prefer the better body method myself

It's an Eastwood 135...works like a champ so far with the rocker panel welding i've done. Really pleased with it.

I agree and am leaning towards getting the better original steel body parts. Just have to work out the logistics of getting an entire Blazer body home.

On a side note, I'll be in your neck of the woods in a week for some work with INL. Any rust free bedsides sitting around up there?

 

[ryoken]

tho you can patch Taiwan stuff in just fine, chopped out factory stuff is always better...

and unless you have the right stepper tools, you're much better off butt welding the panels... a ton of panel clamps, a whole bunch of jumping around tack welds, a ton o' grinding and it'll come out fine....

you can do a really nice job with a stepped lip, but it takes time and the tools, and preferably, access to the back when done for a bead of seamsealer... I actually prefer to do floor pans this way if I have the chance...

 

[GoAWOL]

tho you can patch Taiwan stuff in just fine, chopped out factory stuff is always better... ...

Damn, was hoping the step approach was the easier one. That repro metal is so thin I can almost imagine welding it, slapping some bondo over it and smoothing it out. I'm glad you popped in to apply a dose a realism before I went down a bad path.

and unless you have the right stepper tools, you're much better off butt welding the panels... a ton of panel clamps, a whole bunch of jumping around tack welds, a ton o' grinding and it'll come out fine...

Yeah, I was hoping to never say it but "I think I've bit off more than I can chew." I'm going to do it though, no turning back now. I think, based on what I've read here and elsewhere, that I'll get some original steel in better condition and see what I can accomplish. The good news is this is not my DD so I can get up and walk away if I get frustrated or confused.

 

[ryoken]

well, the hack step approach is easier fo sure, where you just overlap and mud the he!! out of it..... some patches don't lend themselves well to it either, depending on contours, etc... but for long flat sections, it's nice..

I've often done a combination of both... step long flats of a patch, than have butted sections on other areas... I like em on floors, as it tends to be a bit stronger/durable..

they make air powered steppers, that I've used but don't own.. I run one that you run in an air hammer from Snappy... it's a little difficult to run for the inexperienced, but does a nice job for me... pretty versatile too.. for a noob, I'd recommend the air ones..

I'll usually drill some holes and do plug welds along the lip to secure the panel well, as opposed to using Klecko's.. than go back in and do the full perimeter weld..

tho if pressed, you could double up the plugs, every couple inches or so, and dynaglass the joint... like I said tho, you really want to be able to get seamsealer on the back when done.. that joint is a rust catcher waiting to happen...

panel clamps work great for butt joints.. Rene did a nice patch using them on his qrter.. maybe he'll post a link.. just got to get the machine dialed in and have patience so you don't warp/blow thru stuff..

 

[Stein]

Slightly off topic but maybe not. I have to do patch panels in the box sides in my Dodge due to typical over fender rust.

I was thinking about just cutting the box side out, leaving room for a flange, joggling a step in the cutaway box and panel boding adhesive the patch panel in place with 3M panel bond adhesive, holding it in place with clecos to cure. No huge welded areas to distort and shouldn't take much filler to smooth it.

It would also allow me to paint/seal the back sides before assembly without burning the paint and the oozed panel bond should hopefully seal the joint pretty well.

This is based on my vast experience of doing this zero times in the past so the theory is untested by me. Thoughts?

 

[ryoken]

yup, panel adhesive CAN be a viable option with stepped panels, common practice these days.. I've done a few floor repairs like that.. obviously it needs to be the right patch where butt sections aren't needed..

 

[Stein]

For doing what I hope to only one panel job the local auto body store has some modified Vice-Grips that have jaws welded in to hand joggle a joint. IIRC they were like $40. I figured I could make something but it would be easier to just go with this. Do they work OK for one job? I saw the post about the air powered ones but I don't want to buy auto body tools. I'm TRYING to make the SAAB my last auto body project!

 

[ryoken]

here's a cheaper version of what I run... bit quicker than a hand one if you own an air hammer....


https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...0.7&ei=jRDHUq2_GOSgsASLooGoDw&ved=0CH0QpiswAg

 

[Stein]

Thanks! That will do the trick for cheap.

 

[GoAWOL]

well, the hack step approach is easier fo sure, where you just overlap and mud the he!! out of it..... some patches don't lend themselves well to it either, depending on contours, etc... but for long flat sections, it's nice..

I've often done a combination of both... step long flats of a patch, than have butted sections on other areas... I like em on floors, as it tends to be a bit stronger/durable..

they make air powered steppers, that I've used but don't own.. I run one that you run in an air hammer from Snappy... it's a little difficult to run for the inexperienced, but does a nice job for me... pretty versatile too.. for a noob, I'd recommend the air ones..

I'll usually drill some holes and do plug welds along the lip to secure the panel well, as opposed to using Klecko's.. than go back in and do the full perimeter weld..

tho if pressed, you could double up the plugs, every couple inches or so, and dynaglass the joint... like I said tho, you really want to be able to get seamsealer on the back when done.. that joint is a rust catcher waiting to happen...

panel clamps work great for butt joints.. Rene did a nice patch using them on his qrter.. maybe he'll post a link.. just got to get the machine dialed in and have patience so you don't warp/blow thru stuff..

Don't want the hack job. This is a project so the intent is to at least attempt the right way. I saw Rene's work and asked him about it. His is probably the route I will take as I don't feel confident with the repro stuff.

 

[ryoken]

oh, and just a note on the panel adhesive method I forgot to mention for Stein was that one nice advantage to it is that it works as it's own seamsealer on the backside...

 

[GoAWOL]

found a donor

Alright fellas...I think I may have found a donor. It's 2 hrs away and the owner was good enough to send some pics. What do you think? Based on everyone's experience, how much more rust is hidden under there?Looks like surface rust to my inexperienced eye...what say you?