People who've convertered to power windows/locks. Questions.

[broncoman6524]

I've been parting rotted trucks lately as a way to make cash, and I've saved enough harnesses and motors/actuators that stl worked properly to have all the pieces to swap them into my K5.


My question, is how did any of you guys run the wires from the cab into the door? Factory it had that sleeve deal that was riveted to each side, not exactly an option without pulling my doors off.

 

[blazer74]

You have to take the doors off to cut the holes any ways to get the wires thru. The rubber boots are screwed on the earlier years.

 

[Massboy]

+2, except I used pop rivets to secure the boot flange. There is a dimple in the door jamb where you should drill the hole, then make it oval as it is easier. This what I did when I converted my M1009 to civilian goodies. Take measurements off the truck you remove them from so you get them in the correct location. When you pull the wires through the big rubber grommet goes into a hole already in the inside of the jamb to seal it. Easiest way to make the holes is with a big step drill like a Greenlee that electricians use. Much faster and cleaner than cutting it with any type of saw or nipper.

Lots of guys will tell you the power windows suck and to leave the hand cranks but the system is pretty easy to keep running well. The switches all come apart with a little work and can be cleaned/repaired easily. The harnesses for the door locks are separate from the window harness once it passes through the jam. It give you a real good understanding of your truck once you take these separate circuits out and in. I am happy I put the power in my doors.

I will recommend running at least two additional heavy wires with the loom just in case you want to add something in the door. If you don't find the windows fast enough one of those wires can power separate relays in the door that are powered directly off a fused battery lead. Some complain of loss of power to the window motors with the stock harness. You will notice the passenger window is slightly slower with the driver's door switch than it is with the passenger door switch. Some voltage is lost over the length of the cab. The in-door relays keep the power at max and the switches just power the relays to energize.

Take all the connections and clean them very well. I used a small wire wheel on a dremel tool. I then made sure every blade connector was crimped tightly before I slid them on. I also used dielectric grease. No problems so far.

 

[blazer74]

I used everything out of a 79 or 80 truck I forget now for my 74 but I ran a 12 gauge wire straight from the firewall junction thru a 30 amp breaker to a relay powered by an ign on source . I have no issues with them.
Door locks are powered direct from the same junction except using No extra relay and always powered with an inline 20 amp fuse.
Door