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people with stall converters...... needing help

A

alaskanbowtie

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ok I have a mild one now but it really only give's me about 300 rpm's over idle which is about 1050-1100 rpm's and I need to be flash stalling to 1500 minimum or prefer 1800 so what do i get? I'm asking because I want real world experience with your converter's not the tech guys probablies, I have one of them now and it's not working as was expected! So a converter that doesn't move you until it see's 1800 rpm's and I have a 380 horse small block with 430 ft. lbs. at about 3800 rpm's. THX appreciate the input!!! /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif For a th350.
 
Actual stall depends on alot of variables. Engine torque/rpm, vehicle weight, gears, tires. I always call the T.C.I. tech line with ALL the information I can get. They are usually right on. as long as YOUR info is correct.
 
I got about what you are looking for with a B&M 2400 stall converter. Its in my Chevelle now and it flashes a little lower but the weight of the car is lighter.
 
yeah, /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif as I said I have been through this and am wanting some REAL experience because they weren't "right on" with this one, it stalls much lower than they had said and I have read lot's about the theory and why they do what they do, but I want an example of what one does in a fellow K5er's truck. According to the rule's of TCi mine should have stalled higher because the torque is higher, but not happening!
 
so when your sitting at a light and you give it throttle, (just steady) when does the Chevelle start to move? THX Appreciate your info. /forums/images/graemlins/bow.gif
 
When it was in the Blazer, it would move around 2200 with the foot on the brake. If I just hit the gas it would flash up to 2500 and hold untill the truck caught up with it.

In the Chevelle, its closer to 1800 or so.
 
so when you were driving down the road in the Blazer what rpm did it have to be at to lock up completely 2500 cruising @55 ? and if you eased in to the throttle like just taking off with no brake did it start to move you at 1800 or was it higher before it would sart to move? much appreciated! /forums/images/graemlins/bow.gif
 
As far as real world experience: I have a ZZ4 motor putting out about 390HP and 415 ft-lbs. I have 4.10 gears in the axles and a TH350 . I went with the B&M Holeshot 2000 torque converter so I wouldn't lose all my engine braking, and slow speed crawlability when off roading, yet still be closer to a good torque range of the motor. Gotta say I couldn't be happier. On the street it launches like nothing I've driven before (including sports cars). Most cars will spin the tires before getting that much g force, but the super swampers really grab. I'm sure with 4.56 gears I'd light em up. Off road the truck crawls nicely with no noticeable slip or high revs. The converter is just right for all apps I've had so far...
Good luck,
Jeff /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif
 
I have one that is 800 over stock, 4.88 gears, 400hp/490ft lbs 40" tires and it works perfectly. I crawl rocks, drove 660 miles to Moab and back, pull trailers and so on. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
It wouldnt really lock up untill around 3000 rpm or so. Anything lower than that, I noticed some float. It wasnt bad though. I took it out as it was way too high for the rocks. I would try to climb a ledge, the rpm would increase untill the converter flashed, spinning the tires. I could not really crawl up anything technical at all. I dumped it and I was happy with the stocker back in there.

When I mud raced, I loved it. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
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