Pesky oil weeps

[TJ1978]

Ok, I have a few oil weep points on my 350.
Some I know but two a bit odd.

I noticed a slight weep on the bottom of the mechanical fuel pump. So I attempted to snug up the two bottom bolts, but they are not snugging anymore. Could the bolts be bottoming out? I already have the 1/4-20 in the hole on the front of the block. So its not from there.

Second, I have a picture of the local circled in green. This lip by the oil filter has oil on it. But its not coming from the filter. I traced it up and the valve cover is good. No oil running down.

Could it be the freeze plugs on the back of the engine? I tried to twist and contort and nothing from the intake manifold either.

 

[centexk5]

I developed one in that same spot by my filter when I recently deleted the factory oil cooler. Weirdly it doesn't leak on the oil filter but rather on the oil pan. It doesn't drip, just keeps the pan wet which is almost as annoying. I need to quit being lazy and get my spare motor built because something tells me this one isn't going to last long.

 

[tRustyK5]

Freeze plugs = coolant not oil.

 

[diesel4me]

There is one freeze plug behind the flywheel that is located at the end of the camshaft,that retains oil--never seen one leak in my 40+ years of experience though,since its well oiled and should never rust..

The oil pressure sending unit can be a source of hard to pin down leaks..I had one that developed a teeny pinhole,and it would spray a very fine stream of oil on the drivers side valve cover,fooling me into thinking it was the valve cover gasket leaking..weird thing was it did not leak all the time..

 

[TJ1978]

There is one freeze plug behind the flywheel that is located at the end of the camshaft,that retains oil--never seen one leak in my 40+ years of experience though,since its well oiled and should never rust..

The oil pressure sending unit can be a source of hard to pin down leaks..I had one that developed a teeny pinhole,and it would spray a very fine stream of oil on the drivers side valve cover,fooling me into thinking it was the valve cover gasket leaking..weird thing was it did not leak all the time..

I’ve had nothing but weeps with this engine. From builder to the shop that installed it. It’s still under 500 miles on the build. The builder is solid but there was a hiccup from the shop that installed.... long story, doesn’t change what I have to fix now.

I’m just trying fix it all myself now. Ill snap a better pic when I get home. I used google image for this one.
There was enough oil to create a drip on the bottom of the oil filter.

It may be the valve cover but, agggghh. I snap a pic later

 

[TJ1978]

From what Ive read and maybe you guys will concur. That oil from the bottom of fuel pump is 99% the bolts bottoming out leaving just enough space to weep.

My options are, add a couple washers or pull the bolts and cut them. Correct?

 

[diesel4me]

I've never had an oil leak at the fuel pump to block before,cant say I've seen bolts that bottomed out there either--I figured the bolt holes aren't "blind",thought they went right through,but I could be wrong..
I'd add a washer or two instead of altering the bolt's length..

Might be able to get away with removing one bolt at a time so you wont have to buy gaskets,and fight with the push rod re-installing the pump..you can turn the engine over by hand to relieve the pressure on the push rod ,that will help avoid cracking the flange on the pump..

The "plate" sandwiched between the pump & block gives it 2 places to leak,I use RTV and gaskets at both..the fuel pump can ooze oil out of the "can" area ,it has a weep hole to let gas escape should the diaphragm in it fail,to help prevent too much gas from getting in the crankcase..
There's a 3/8" bolt on the front of the block that plugs off a passage to the fuel pump push rod,oil will leak there if the bolt gets left out or is loose..

My 6.2 oozes oil everywhere,but not enough to justify doing anything about it..

I add a quart when it needs one,and that is usually at least 500 miles or more...the oil pan is rotted,I patched it by screwing bolts into the holes and used tiger hair bondo & RTV as a "temporary" fix several years ago,it is still holding OK,only weeps a little now..
I have a good oil pan,but I'm unable to lay under the truck 2-3 hours to try and install it,and none of the mechanics I've asked will do the job either,they look at how rusted everything underneath is and say "nope"---or yes,it'll cost $500!..
I can buy 55 gallons of oil for about $300...so I'll keep adding..with my luck the crank would snap in half a week later if I shelled out the cash to have it replaced..

 

[TJ1978]

Washers is how Im leaning. One at a time as well.
I never had one weep there either but with my luck and this engine install, anything is possible.

Or break clean and a smearing of some rtv...

I had to have it done and they put the accessories on, including fuel pump and wires. Because of the lift and my HOA I couldnt do it in my garage. I would of had to remove the front clip.

 

[rampage]

From what Ive read and maybe you guys will concur. That oil from the bottom of fuel pump is 99% the bolts bottoming out leaving just enough space to weep.

My options are, add a couple washers or pull the bolts and cut them. Correct?

Someone on here had a problem with the fuel pump bolts bottoming out many years ago. I think their solution was adding a washer too. I’ll see if I can dig that thread up.

 

[diesel4me]

My situation is just the opposite..
I have no one to whine about what I do in my own yard,but my physical ability to work on stuff has declined to the point I can barely do routine maintenence,never mind major repairs..

I have a nice garage,20 x 40 feet quonset type building--too bad I've collected no less than 6 garden tractors,and have two 307 V8's taking up ALL the floor space--cant get my truck in there unless I roll them all outside..one engine has a TH350 bolted to it,its sitting on a yard trailer,the other is on an engine stand..

Sunday I changed the oil in my pickup,had to do it outside,but it was almost 60 degrees out--sucked lying under it ,the winds were gusting over 50 mph and I parked right next to my van to hopefully prevent oil from being blown everywhere and all over me as it drained..

Now it is 33 degrees with snow,freezing rain & sleet,got maybe 1/2" of snow earlier,then it began sleeting..not going to be doing anything outside now--and Thursday its not supposed to go over 25 degrees,with wind chills down to -20...kind of wish I had bought 10W-30 oil instead of 15W-40 now,but I avoid trying to start the diesel on days below 30 if I can help it..

I have found up here your better off having things leak a bit and coat the undercarriage,it keeps rust at bay..made the mistake of steam cleaning a car's engine compartment once,that had a nice thick layer of greasy grunge on everything--a few weeks later everything turned brown with rust,and started getting flaky...ended up spraying drain oil back on everything to preserve it..

 

[rampage]

Someone on here had a problem with the fuel pump bolts bottoming out many years ago. I think their solution was adding a washer too. I’ll see if I can dig that thread up.

This isn’t the thread I was thinking about but something to check:
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/leaking-engine-oil-help.74368/#post-620337

I think this is the one (one bolt slightly longer than the other):
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/dont-change-that-fuel-pump-too-quick.23275/#post-183505

 

[TJ1978]

I checked the valve cover and manifold and they are good. So I have no idea where this oil is coming from. After running it the other day. There was nice drip ready to fall on the oil filter.

I tell ya. I’ve had nothing but trouble with this bargain engine. A guy, Kerry here in AZ built it. “Myvintageiron7512” from you tube is his net handle

 

[Wes Harden]

rare indeed to completely seal a gen 1 smb chevy, check your distributor and the oil pressure sender. also your pcv system valve needs to the correct size and have good filtered air flow into crank case.
my money is on the 2 piece rear main seeping. Gm would not condemn that as leak and would not fix under warranty had a customer bought it to dealer when covered.