*Pics Attached* Need help SM465 throw out bearing distance.

[handloader90]

Ok, test #2.

Throwout bearing not touching pressure plate, stuck item into coupler and tried to spin. Did not spin.

Ratchet strap installed, tightened clutch fork until it bottomed out on bellhousing clutch fork hole, stuck item into coupler and tried to spin. It did spin.

When the clutch fork is pulled that far back the push rod is not long enough to engage the indentation in the clutch fork... it just falls out.

By using an adjustable or longer ball pivot the clutch fork would be pushed futrther forward toward the slave cylinder which would require less travel (no more bottoming out on the bellhousing) which should fix the geometry of the slave push rod and allow it to be long enough to engage the clutch fork far enough to push the throwout bearing far enough to disengage the clutch?

 

[Bent77]

Yes

Need a "taller" pivot point
Solves all sorts of issues!

 

[handloader90]

I'm pretty upset now.

I'll get one on order and I guess everything will get installed next weekend.

It was a pain in the ass gett the input shaft lined up into the clutch disc too... not looking forward to doing that again.

 

[Bent77]

I'm pretty upset now.

I'll get one on order and I guess everything will get installed next weekend.

It was a pain in the ass gett the input shaft lined up into the clutch disc too... not looking forward to doing that again.

Oh no, that's the fun part. Ask @campfire

Now you know why I'm going to build a widget

 

[campfire]

I'm pretty upset now.

I'll get one on order and I guess everything will get installed next weekend.

It was a pain in the ass gett the input shaft lined up into the clutch disc too... not looking forward to doing that again.

Hey...I'd be pretty happy if I had caught that error on the bench. I didn't find out about my issue until I had the drive train buttoned back up and I was racing the weather to get the truck road worthy before snowfall.

 

[campfire]

Oh no, that's the fun part. Ask @campfire

Now you know why I'm going to build a widget

I still don't know why it took so long for me to catch on. Once I figured out that I wasn't lined up it became a pretty straight-forward thing. Pun intended.

What sort of widget are you going to build?

 

[campfire]

Yes

Need a "taller" pivot point
Solves all sorts of issues!

@handloader90, what does your other pivot arm look like? Would it give you the clearance that you're needing? Or are they pretty much the same height when they go through the bell?


This bell housing did previously work in this truck, right? And the only things changed are the flywheel, clutch set, and pivot arm?

 

[Bent77]

I still don't know why it took so long for me to catch on. Once I figured out that I wasn't lined up it became a pretty straight-forward thing. Pun intended.

What sort of widget are you going to build?

Tilta whirl do hickey. Adjust the nose up and down while on the jack independent of the jack lift

 

[handloader90]

Pivot arm being a clutch fork?

I don't plan on messing with this stuff anymore tonight.

I am glad that I caught the issue before I put everyrhing in the truck but kinda pissed that all the stuff that I just bought didn't work as intended...

If my old clutch fork works then now I habe this brand new one which is worthless, I doubt Novak would take it back as a return since I bought a "kit".

I'm gonna pull it all apart tomorrow and see if the old clutch fork works.

 

[campfire]

Pivot arm being a clutch fork?

I don't plan on messing with this stuff anymore tonight.

I am glad that I caught the issue before I put everyrhing in the truck but kinda pissed that all the stuff that I just bought didn't work as intended...

If my old clutch fork works then now I habe this brand new one which is worthless, I doubt Novak would take it back as a return since I bought a "kit".

I'm gonna pull it all apart tomorrow and see if the old clutch fork works.

If it's an issue with the pivot arm I would complain to Novak. But it could also be an issue with your new flywheel. Do you know whether the LQ4 flywheel has the same offset dimension as the old engine? You said you have the tall throwout bearing, right? I'm starting to wonder if I grabbed the wrong bearing on my rig. I simply ordered a standard throwout bearing for the bell housing donor (1986 C10). Was not aware there were any other options.

 

[campfire]

I'm gonna pull it all apart tomorrow and see if the old clutch fork works.

Remember that it's not set up for the hydraulic setup, it *shouldn't* fit if everything else is correct.

 

[handloader90]

Ok so my throwout bearing is exactly 1 1/4" tall. The throwout bearing that I have came with the clutch kit that I ordered so it's the correct one for the clutch disc and pressure plate.

I have no clue about the flywheel... I just know that other people have done this swap and it worked.

I got curious and seperated the trans from the bellhousing, threw one of the old mechanical forks in and the indentation for the slave push rod was way off, like 1.5" or so.

So all the Novak stuff is good to go.

Ordered a long ass adjustable pivot ball from Summit, made by McLeod (pic of what I got is attached).

 

[Bent77]

Now you can screw yourself silly

 

[campfire]

Now you can screw yourself silly

Yeah, I was wishing for one of these to magically be inserted into my bell housing...after I finally got it bolted up.

 

[campfire]

Still not sure why you needed one, it should have just worked.

 

[handloader90]

Idk either, probably cause this transmission isn't supposed to be mated to this engine.

 

[campfire]

Idk either, probably cause this transmission isn't supposed to be mated to this engine.

Prolly not that simple. My engine/BH/clutch/slave system is 100% stock square-body parts. Everything should have been a really easy bolt-on affair. I went to the pain of tracking down a factory BH because I didn't prefer the custom pieces. It still didn't work quite right.

And plenty of others have done LS swaps, you're not the first one to do this.

 

[diesel4me]

On the square body trucks they had 3 different throwout bearings--the longest one was used on "flat finger" diaphragm pressure plates,used mostly on straight 6 and some small block standard transmissions (3 on the tree's usually,with a 10.5" disc)..the vanes on the pressure plate were straight across on this style..
Then there was what I called the "medium height" one used on most of the 11 and 12" diaphragm pressure plates that had the "raised diaphragm" pressure plate,with the vanes that are bent up in cone fashion ..

The shortest bearing was used with the 11 and 12" 3 finger Borg & Beck style pressure plate..

I laid under a '75 2wd K5 for two days in the slush,after installing a new clutch ,only to discover the wrong throwout bearing was installed,and the clutch would not disengage....

I wish I could recall which bearing numbers are which--
I know there was a N1488 BCA one that I think was the shortest one-.the medium one I think was a N1716,and the longest one (and least often encountered) was I think a N1086 BCA...but I could be wrong,its only been 20+ years since I sold or bought a throwout bearing..
There should be enough clearance between the bearing and the pressure plate fingers,not to touch the fingers with the clutch pedal all the way up...you do not want that bearing spinning all the time..the 1" of free play rule at the pedal should be sufficient to gain full release,and full engagement..