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Pics of my completed Traction bar...

colbystephens said:
I don't think he's too concerned about the thickness of that box tubing, I think the concern is more HOW you attached the joint to the tubing - meaning, weld some tabs to the tube and bolt the joint through those tabs.
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If you bolt the joint through tabs welded to the tube you will no longer have the orbital aspect of the joint :p:

All of the force that will be exerted on that joint will be straight up and straight down.And just about all of that energy will be spent trying to push that joint up through that tube :D
 
MTBLAZER89 said:
Has this thing broke yet? :haha:

J/K looks good dude! I need to get to work on mine. All I need is that joint. Thanks for posting pics, I'm sure it will help me at some point.
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No problem, I posted these so they could be used as a reference for guys since traction/anti-wrap bars seem to be something of a mystery around here. Not many guys have them yet everyone is an expert. :rotfl:

Post pics when you get your bar built!

FRIZZLEFRY said:
Hmmm...

:thinking:

It looks exactly like this one :haha:

Img_0118.jpg
Click to expand...

:D I know a guy who has a bar exactly like that one who drags his fat full bodied FJ55 over some gnarly rocks with it all the time and it seems to be holding up. :dunno:


colbystephens said:
I don't think he's too concerned about the thickness of that box tubing, I think the concern is more HOW you attached the joint to the tubing - meaning, weld some tabs to the tube and bolt the joint through those tabs.
Click to expand...

That won't work since the shackles have to come off of this joint. I understand how you could weld tabs on the crossmember and run the bolt through them and then the center of the joint would stay stationary (and parallel) to the crossmember and the housing of the joint would rotate around it. Or if you weld the housing of the joint to the crossmember then the center of the joint could rotate in the housing....
But like I said above since the shackles have to come off of this the housing has to stay stationary and the center of the joint (where the bolt ties the shackles to it) has to be the piece moving. In the other situation the shackles would have to be attached to the housing some way.
 
I think what Rene was saying is the joint is just welded to the crossmember where they meet as being a weak point. Maybe some brackets that wrap around the joint and the bar would beef that up? I am not real familiar with the joint or what you can and can't weld to on them.

Does it make a difference which side gets the joint? I see Frizz has his on the bar itself and you have yours on the X-member.

Something like this? :dunno:

100_6826.jpg
 
MTBLAZER89 said:
I think what Rene was saying is the joint is just welded to the crossmember where they meet as being a weak point. Maybe some brackets that wrap around the joint and the bar would beef that up? I am not real familiar with the joint or what you can and can't weld to on them.

Does it make a difference which side gets the joint? I see Frizz has his on the bar itself and you have yours on the X-member.

Something like this? :dunno:
Click to expand...

Yep I think that could be useful. I said it way back in post #13 of this thread but I guess I wasn't very clear.

As long as you don't have shackle/joint or shackle crossmember clearance issues it's the same.
 
FRIZZLEFRY said:
If you bolt the joint through tabs welded to the tube you will no longer have the orbital aspect of the joint :p:

All of the force that will be exerted on that joint will be straight up and straight down.And just about all of that energy will be spent trying to push that joint up through that tube :D
Click to expand...

Oops! Yup, I meant how MTBlazer explained it... :D
 
The reason alot of folks mount the shackle so the traction bar is on top is cause the force is trying to move the bar up, i.e. rotating the axle up when the truck is going forward.

Your design works just fine, you really have to angle the shackle alot for it not too work.

I built a traction bar on a sami years ago that was adjustable enough to play with it a bit, if you put in on like you have it and the shackle is way out of wack when compared to the traction bar it won't work at all but when it is in your configuration it seems to work just fine

I like it, I need to build one too got a little wrap out of it in the snow the other weekend
 
It uses four existing holes in the frame that were originally used for mounting the saddle tanks. It's a 1/4" plate with grade 8 bolts then the 1.5" .250" wall square tubing crossmember is hammered in place and welded to the plate.
 
Very nice fab work...Looks better than my hill-billy shi*:D:D

I'm going to agree with Rene though, The only weak point appears to be the part on the cross-member. Add some kind of support like illustrated earlier (by MTblazer) and you should be golden.
 
It's a long set screw that keeps the joint from unscrewing itself. See the notches on the side of it? The set screw goes down into one of those slots so it can't back off.

This might make it easier to see.

thumbnail.asp
 
Avery4jc said:
It's a long set screw that keeps the joint from unscrewing itself. See the notches on the side of it? The set screw goes down into one of those slots so it can't back off.

This might make it easier to see.

thumbnail.asp
Click to expand...
Ahh i see. Weird but i see
 
You must have the cleanest 208 Ive ever seen. Im so jealous of you southwest guys sometimes.
 
Nice work Avery4jc. I built an almost identical bar not too long ago for my rig. I dropped the shackle down from the frame just as you did and haven't noticed any problems.

One thing that did start to happen is that as I load the truck down in the back, the frame gets closer to the axle and the bar tries to rotate the pinion down...this leads to the bar basically pushing back up on one side of the frame and causes the truck to lean a bit.

I think this is hard to avoid with a ladder bar design, especially off center. Something you might want to watch out for...
 
79rustyk10 said:
You must have the cleanest 208 Ive ever seen. Im so jealous of you southwest guys sometimes.
Click to expand...

haha, I try to take care of it. :)

74k20 said:
Nice work Avery4jc. I built an almost identical bar not too long ago for my rig. I dropped the shackle down from the frame just as you did and haven't noticed any problems.

One thing that did start to happen is that as I load the truck down in the back, the frame gets closer to the axle and the bar tries to rotate the pinion down...this leads to the bar basically pushing back up on one side of the frame and causes the truck to lean a bit.

I think this is hard to avoid with a ladder bar design, especially off center. Something you might want to watch out for...
Click to expand...

I noticed it keeps the truck straight on my hard 1-2 shift. Before when it'd shift from first to second at about 3 grand going down the road it'd kick the truck to one side (it was even worse after I welded my rear end) but now it just has a hard kick without the roll to one side.

I'll see what happens when I get some weight over the rear end though. :)
 
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