What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

pics of what you used insted of conewashers on steering arms

spongeidys

spongeidys

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jul 6, 2005
Posts
2,559
Reaction score
2
Location
Dillion, CO and Palmerton, PA
ive completely killed the cone washers on my steering arm by trying to pry them off and hit them off but i finally got the arm off and i need something to replace my conewashers and none of the parts stores around here have them

so what have you used and do you have pics of what you used to replace them?

oh btw after whacking on the arm for 3 days i realized the studs screw out i took a vise grips and just threaded the bolts out and the arm came right off ;p
 
Ask around for some used ones. Call ORD. Check around. There out there.

Don't try to skimp around without cone washers. They are too vital a part for steering to be taking shortcuts on. Is someone elses life worth your own?
 
I think I might have a set in my garage, pay the shipping and I will give them to you :D But let me make sure I have them first :wink1:
 
You can NOT go with out the cone washers. I can't think of any other part that would totally prevent any side-to-side motion of the arm in relation to the knuckle. Any movement will weaken the studs until they break. If that happens at speed, you can kiss your a$$ goodbye, as you will have zero directional control... :eek1:

The GM dealer sells 'em, as does www.offroaddesign.com and probably a few other off-road specialty shops.
 
thatK30guy said:
Don't try to skimp around without cone washers. They are too vital a part for steering to be taking shortcuts on. Is someone elses life worth your own?
Click to expand...

lol, somehow my D60 does just fine without cone washers. Locking tapered nuts are way better IMO. Anyone who has ever spent 6 hours trying to get rusted in POS cone washers out of a steering arm will probably agree with me. On the 60 ya just double nut 'em, lock tit'em and forget about it. Not sure why people don't do this on every other axle ever made but for some unknown reason toy / chebby half ton people "have" to use them. I have posted about this a few times on the pirate toyota board and have never ever seen a legit response as to why they'd be required over locking tapered nuts, assuming ARP or someone would make them. Considering how many "know it alls" there are over there... it seems that its just a matter of no one really thinking about it. I've never needed 'em for my k5 so I don't know if ARP makes a nut that would work.... but I wouldn't doubt it if they did.

of course, using tapered nuts would probably require the steering arm itself be machined for a proper fit. Most D44 x-over arms are probably machined to use the cone washers which are deeper than a tapered nut would be. In any case, assuming you could get the correct taper in the arm, know how to use locktite and to properly torque a nut, it'd be way better than those pos cones... which are sorta like the ugly red-headed cousin of the locking washer (another POS, but at least they come out easily!).

j
 
scary...

A local "4x4" shop that installed a lot of lift kits used Ford 9/16" lug nuts with the 1-1/6" hex when installing a drop pitman arm on a lot of lifted trucks! :eek1: --but I don't recall them ever having any comebacks or lawsuits..but I don't think I'd do it that way..I did use grade 8 bolts on my 74 K20 instead of studs(couldn't find any new ones)..but I used the old cone washers over,and grade 8 flat washers too..and torqued the P** out of them!..after one salty MA winter,I doubt I could remove them again..Dorman does make those cone washers,but not many warehouses stock them.. :crazy:
 
waiting for some of the engineering gurus to chime in on this...

j
 
no dont need a new stud the arm came with new studs but i whacked away forever on the arm and someone looked cloesly at it and informed me it was threaded in and i just took visegrips and threaded it out i wish i knew about that from the beginning the arm was off in about 5 mins that way ;D

and thanks much to 70jimmy for the washers ;D
 
Next time just use cone washer pliers (most parts stores sell or rent them) and use a butane torch on the old arm to expand it from the cones. It should only take 5-10 minutes max to get off an old arm. When You put in the new ones put a coat of never seize on the cones.
 
70jimmy said:
They are in the mail.

Corey good info on the pliers, I had no idea they existed!!
Click to expand...
Yeah A buddy showed Me once and it was one of the best tools I ever saw. I don't know any other company that makes them but I do know that OTC makes them Look Here Click on the 3 links at the bottom and You will really see how they work. Any special tool you need OTC probably has it. Oh yeah they work great for Toyota hubs as well.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom