Picture of Properly-installed Cab weatherseal?

[utherjorge]

Could someone shoot me a picture of what the weatherstrip looks like that goes between the cab and the fiberglass shell?

I have new that I'm putting on, and I thought I had it on right, but it doesn't look right. Obviously, this has to be correct or I'll screw it up again!

Looking for a pic of the shell off, and what that weatherstrip looks like on the metal of the cab itself.

Thanks in advance!

 

[bubba blazer]

Sorry - since i'm at work all I have is a pic of the seal that goes on the shell itself. You're talking about the "fat" one that you can't see once the shell is in place? It's not that tricky but it's supposed to "sit" on a metal lip on top and get glued/sealed toward the sides to keep it in place (the repro ones have a slightly different profile)...I can take pics of it once I get home...

 

[utherjorge]

That pic helps me too, since that's next! Thanks!

I'll eagerly await your pic.

By the way, what's on your top? Is that a bedliner? I have Monstaliner on the floor of my K.

 

[bubba blazer]

It's herculiner (DONT DO IT) I got a decent discount for a gallon kit at Oreilly's because someone either dropped the box or returned it. I thought it'd be a good coating because the glass strands were already poking through the shell. The earlier picture I posted was taken about 4-5 months ago and it already started fading pretty badly despite fully mixed/prepped/applied...If i did it all over again, I'd just paint it with something decent or spend the $$ for Line-X. Now I have to go back and recoat it with Herculiner UV protectant (or something like that). Why don't they just mix it in with the original product? dunno...

Hopefully, I'll have your pic in a few more hours - work's killing me...

 

[utherjorge]

Thanks for the post, even in advance!

Your rig looks great. Nice job on that. I see what you mean about the cap. Stuff like that is the reason that I haven't tried to do that to the lower half of the sheet metal.

 

[bubba blazer]

thanks sir, she's still gotta long way to go - thought i would be able to post the pics sooner but had probs getting home and my newborn was a bit fussy...

here's the side:

and the top:

closeup of installed seal:

basically the "flap" of the seal will cover the metal channel that the main part of the seal sits in. I used a good amount of sealant on the sides more than the top but I'll probably put more since it started to stick to the shell as I was removing it. So far, no leaks and I only bolt in the shell on the top of the bed not the cab (too lazy).

 

[utherjorge]

OK, here's what I have, and I don't know why, I just can't wrap my stupid head around this for some reason:

 

[bubba blazer]

looks like its rotated 90 degs too much. you shouldn't be able to see the seal from the inside of the cab once the shell is installed. the newer seals are a little different than the originals which had a 'block' profile. the ridge on your seal is facing rearward and should be facing up which will take care of the wrinkle at the cab corner. the 'flap' of the seal will face rearward and cover the metal channel (if that makes sense). the way you have it may cause the seal to get cut or severed when putting the top back on.

nice looking paint!

i got lazy and drew it out...

 

[utherjorge]

Unbelievably helpful. Thanks so much. I just couldn't "see it". Lemme get it on and then post a pic up.

 

[Deuling]

That seal was a pain. At least mine was. It came in a coil and did not want to stay put on that tiny "gutter" or whatever you would call it.

I put some weatherstrip adhesive on and me and my buddies quick tossed the top on. A year later it's all good and with the top off it looks right.


I need the one that goes on the topper itself soon. Mines getting pretty ugly

 

[utherjorge]

Haven't glued it down, but it's on. The glue should go in the channel, at the "bottom", or should it go against the backside of the lip?

Also, the corners are flaring our due to the bend. What did you do, let it sit for a day or so, then glue it down with clothespins like your cap lip?I'm worried about it bunching up on the inside of that curve.

 

[utherjorge]

Deuling, so far, I like the ones I got from Precision Replacement Parts. Got the cab back and cap front at the same time. They look good as far as I can see now.

 

[Deuling]

Cost?

 

[utherjorge]

I don't think I got them here, but I get a discount and/or a "cash back" thing due to one of the colleges I work for.

This is a link for the page that has all four seals separately, the two on the bottom of the shell on the bed side, the one on the shell that touches the top of the cab, and the one on the cab itself I posted pics of. Looks like what you need is $27.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/precision-...trip/p3039131.jcwx?filterid=d50294y1987g704j1

For some reason, all four of these seals have the same stock number:
Mfr #: BWB 1110 76

 

[dyeager535]

I used a good amount of sealant on the sides more than the top but I'll probably put more since it started to stick to the shell as I was removing it. .

Use dielectric grease on the seals to keep them supple and from sticking.

Also, not sure if all the K5's had it or not, but there was a strip of butyl rubber (or whatever it was) on mine that angled rearward from the inside to the outside of the bed rail right behind the b-pillar on the rail, which is apparently to direct any water that comes in between the cab and topper, off the bed rail and to the outside, instead of sitting inside the topper/bed rail seal.

 

[utherjorge]

The new seals and the old did not have this feature, but you should have seen how much old, crappy seam seal I had to get the heck out of that exact spot on both sides....

 

[dyeager535]

Sounds like there is still a fair bit of "artistic license" in reproducing the GM seals.

 

[bubba blazer]

no prob utherjorge! definitely, i think the repro market probably just used an existing seal profile that "kinda" fits. it does take a good amount of sealer to make it stay put. the cleaner the channel the better the seal will stick (plus if you use the good quality stuff like 3M). The kinks or warps should settle down but for the most part stay flat. I used masking tape to hold the seal while the glue set and the weight of top will eventually make it "settle" into place. I like the dielectric grease idea to keep it from sticking to the top. I was thinking of using talc too...

 

[dyeager535]

Grease is a bit messy when you pull the top off, but mines been together 5 years or so, and when I pull the top off, it's still there.

Talc may work as well, I put some on the butyl rubber strip to keep it from sticking to the seal.

 

[4x4blaze]

I know that this thread is well over a year old, but thanks a lot for posting this! I have been fighting and debating on how i should put the seals on, but this helped a lot!!

Shane