If the relay clicks it should be functioning but it could just have cruddy contacts inside it not connecting pin 30 input to pin 87 output.
CK5
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Pigeon-Rat - Opel gambler build
- Thread starter ashman
- Start date
1966 Opel rekord mounted to 1990 Nissan pathfinder.
I tested that and (nissan relay) pin 3 and 5 connect just fine when I connect 1 and 2 directly to the battery. It's really driving me nuts!
Problem solved! The ground connection below was the culprit. Rusty metal and held on with a finger tight self tapper. I sanded the metal a bit and actually tightening the screw and everything worked like it should.
I'll get that area cleaned up properly and install a rivnut for a permanent solution before I wrap it all up.
I'll get that area cleaned up properly and install a rivnut for a permanent solution before I wrap it all up.
Part 1 of the supercharger engine swap
part 2
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Very impressive! Looking forward to the romping videos. I was screaming just looking at the wiring harnesses and diagrams.
part 3 Exhaust
Anybody ever have a relay "partially" fail?
This is a new one for me. I was trying to start Pigeonrat yesterday and I couldn't get the starter to turn over with the key, so I turned the key to on and ran a hot wire to the solenoid and it started right up.
At first I assumed that the relay wasn't getting power or ground on the activation side. The hot side goes directly to the key switch, and the ground side is interrupted by the clutch switch. With a test light I verified that I got ground with the clutch pushed in, and hot when the key is turned to start. I also verified that the input side of the relay switch was getting power as well (with the test light).
Next, I pulled the relay out and activated it with an Ohmmeter across the switched side and verified that the switch was actually closing. Then, I hooked the relay back up, but connected the output to the test light. Turned the key, and the light comes on. So far, everything indicates that the relay is working.
BUT when I plug the output back into the solenoid connection... nothing. run a wire from 12v source to that same connector, and starts right up. Bypass the relay (using the relay input for power) and it starts right up.
basically, the relay is working well enough to light up a test light, but won't activate the solenoid.
This is a new one for me. I was trying to start Pigeonrat yesterday and I couldn't get the starter to turn over with the key, so I turned the key to on and ran a hot wire to the solenoid and it started right up.
At first I assumed that the relay wasn't getting power or ground on the activation side. The hot side goes directly to the key switch, and the ground side is interrupted by the clutch switch. With a test light I verified that I got ground with the clutch pushed in, and hot when the key is turned to start. I also verified that the input side of the relay switch was getting power as well (with the test light).
Next, I pulled the relay out and activated it with an Ohmmeter across the switched side and verified that the switch was actually closing. Then, I hooked the relay back up, but connected the output to the test light. Turned the key, and the light comes on. So far, everything indicates that the relay is working.
BUT when I plug the output back into the solenoid connection... nothing. run a wire from 12v source to that same connector, and starts right up. Bypass the relay (using the relay input for power) and it starts right up.
basically, the relay is working well enough to light up a test light, but won't activate the solenoid.
It happens. Contacts inside relays get burned and crappy. Take it apart and look at them. This is why when doing electrical work on vehicles you have the ohm meter for checking if a circuit is open or closed and then the test light but the one lots of people don't know or do is to load test a circuit. I make up a simple tester using a high beam halogen headlight(I think like a 20 amp load) and a 2 wire pigtail. Put 4 or 5 feet of wire on it and one side an alligator clip and the other one I usually do a spade connector then make up little adapters to plug it into different style terminals. You use it to put a load on the circuit to see if it can handle it or if it goes open. I bet your relay circuit would go open with the larger load on it. This tester works easily on power and ground circuits but is easily used for any circuit. You just have to isolate the circuit and you use it as a path to run power or ground through the light. I've found lots of crappy connections over the years doing this method. I'll get a pic and add it.
This one's slightly different cuz I used what I had to build it. I put Cat Deutch terminals on it and have pigtails for adapting to different circuits.
Yup, a load tester would have found the issue, just not something I've run into before. With as much as I've done to the wiring in this thing, my first thought is always WTF did I do to cause an open somewhere in the loom. I used solder and seal connectors everywhere, so I'm pretty confident in my connections, but still, when a problem happens, you always go to what you were just messing with first.
I'm starting to wonder if my "bad ground" issue with the starter awhile back was just this, or somehow related to this.
I'm starting to wonder if my "bad ground" issue with the starter awhile back was just this, or somehow related to this.
Junk China parts will always get you too.
Replaced the relay, problem solved.
Damn thing keeps wanting to die on me when it gets warm. Chasing a P0505 error code now.
"OBD II fault code P0505 is defined as “Idle Control System Malfunction”, or sometimes as “Idle speed control (ISC) system –malfunction”, and is set when the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) is unable to control, or maintain the engine idling speed at a specified RPM."
"OBD II fault code P0505 is defined as “Idle Control System Malfunction”, or sometimes as “Idle speed control (ISC) system –malfunction”, and is set when the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) is unable to control, or maintain the engine idling speed at a specified RPM."
Dirty IAC valve?
Possible. I pulled it off and it was a little dirty, but the plungers seemed to move freely.
I put it back together and I think one of the connectors wasn't on all the way, so maybe that was the issue. I was able to clear the codes and the check engine light went off (for the first time!) But I need to drive it some more to see if it sticks.
The IAC valve doesn't seem to be the issue unfortunately. I drove it around a bit and the code keeps coming back, and once the engine is nice and warm it dies if I let it idle. the code doesn't actually specify the IAC valve, so I'm starting to think it's something else keeping it from maintaining the idle. I'm not sure what that would be. 
I did get a little more info on possibly getting this thing tuned though. Here is the basics of what I've found out. Most people that talk about tuning on an Xterra have the 2nd gen that has a VQ engine. I have the earlier VG engine. VG engines are tunable, but only the OBD1 version. I have an OBD2 ecu at the moment. Stock Nissan OBD1 ECUs are not tunable either, but you can have them modified with an aftermarket board that makes them tunable. However, there is a specific Infiniti ECU from a 1990-92 M30 that came tunable from the factory. Supposedly, if I can get my hands on one of those (Ebay here I come), that will give me the tunability that I need.
Ugg, I should have just LS swapped the damn thing.
I did get a little more info on possibly getting this thing tuned though. Here is the basics of what I've found out. Most people that talk about tuning on an Xterra have the 2nd gen that has a VQ engine. I have the earlier VG engine. VG engines are tunable, but only the OBD1 version. I have an OBD2 ecu at the moment. Stock Nissan OBD1 ECUs are not tunable either, but you can have them modified with an aftermarket board that makes them tunable. However, there is a specific Infiniti ECU from a 1990-92 M30 that came tunable from the factory. Supposedly, if I can get my hands on one of those (Ebay here I come), that will give me the tunability that I need.
Ugg, I should have just LS swapped the damn thing.
Hopefully you get it worked out after all this work you put into it.
If it's dying then it's either got a massive vacuum leak(unmetered air) or it's not getting enough fuel.
