Pigeon-Rat - Opel gambler build

[ashman]

Actually, doing a bit more research on the axle tag, the D35 axle came from a 1993. The bronco II was discontinued in 1990, so I must have pulled it from an Explorer. The listed track width for an Explorer is 58.3", so I'm going to be another 1.4" wider.

 

[Weird Beard]

IIRC, they were the same a Rangers through 96

 

[ashman]

Ok, I have a question. I'm trying to ream out the DS beam and the bottom half of the taper just won't feaking cut. the PS went fairly straightforward, so I'm a bit at a loss. I did have to heat it up with a torch to get the ball joint to release when I took it apart, so I'm wondering if I hardened the beam and that's why it won't cut.

If so, can I just heat it up red hot and cut it then? What is the best process to anneal it so I can cut it? Assuming that is the issue.

 

[imiceman44]

Ok, I have a question. I'm trying to ream out the DS beam and the bottom half of the taper just won't feaking cut. the PS went fairly straightforward, so I'm a bit at a loss. I did have to heat it up with a torch to get the ball joint to release when I took it apart, so I'm wondering if I hardened the beam and that's why it won't cut.

If so, can I just heat it up red hot and cut it then? What is the best process to anneal it so I can cut it? Assuming that is the issue.

Heat and slow cool down doesn't harden the metal.

 

[folkenheath]

Are you using a sawzall? Get some of those carbide tipped blades, they are amazing.

 

[imiceman44]

Are you using a sawzall? Get some of those carbide tipped blades, they are amazing.

He is reaming the holes for the bigger tie rod

 

[imiceman44]

Are you using a sawzall? Get some of those carbide tipped blades, they are amazing.

But yeah I love those, I have a good selection of different tooth count and shapes

 

[folkenheath]

Yeah I see, I think I read it too fast, and thought he was trying to cut it.

Did you look at the bit in the magnifier, is it dull now?

 

[imiceman44]

Yeah I see, I think I read it too fast, and thought he was trying to cut it.

Did you look at the bit in the magnifier, is it dull now?

He bought another one because the first one got dull

 

[folkenheath]

See what happens when I enter the build too late and offer advice with only a small portion of the story?

My uncle was a machinist, he told me, if a file can cut it, you should be able to drill/ream it. So use a file as a test to see if its hardened if you can. You can work harden the metal if you attempt to cut it too long with a dull bit and it just keeps deforming it.

To anneal steel you can heat it up to the correct temp, and let it cool off slowly, not just air cool, but insulate it cool, like bury it in sand cool.

However, keep in mind, they may weaken the steel if it was originally designed with a certain strength to it, so I don't recommend you do this to critical suspension parts unless you know they were originally just weak mild steel.

Can you get a carbide reamer? That should solve your problem, but I realize after buying two reamers its a little late for that.

 

[imiceman44]

See what happens when I enter the build too late and offer advice with only a small portion of the story?

My uncle was a machinist, he told me, if a file can cut it, you should be able to drill/ream it. So use a file as a test to see if its hardened if you can. You can work harden the metal if you attempt to cut it too long with a dull bit and it just keeps deforming it.

To anneal steel you can heat it up to the correct temp, and let it cool off slowly, not just air cool, but insulate it cool, like bury it in sand cool.

However, keep in mind, they may weaken the steel if it was originally designed with a certain strength to it, so I don't recommend you do this to critical suspension parts unless you know they were originally just weak mild steel.

Can you get a carbide reamer? That should solve your problem, but I realize after buying two reamers its a little late for that.

I would still buy a carbide reamer or cobalt or something strong

 

[ashman]

I think that might be what I have to do. Also gonna call a machine shop on Monday and see what they'd charge to do it for me.

 

[Blue85]

What does it take to sharpen a reamer like that? Take down the edge like a tap?

 

[ashman]

What does it take to sharpen a reamer like that? Take down the edge like a tap?

I looked into it, but it looks like a real delicate operation to keep it round and at the correct taper.

Anyway, as it turns out, the reamer was fine, I just needed to put more pressure on it to get it to cut.

My drill press uses V belts to adjust the speed of the chuck:


It's never been a problem up until now, but with 1.5" of the reamer engaged in the metal there was too much friction and the belts would slip. I tried replacing the belts and tightening them as much as I could, but it just wasn't enough.

Luckily, I was able to get a hold of a friend of mine that has a mill. A LOT more torque on that thing.


Once we got it all set up, it cut through like butter.

As you can see, it cut nice big shavings. Way better than what I was able to get on the PS beam.

With that done, I can throw the D44 knuckles on the axles and start mocking things up.

 

[Blue85]

It's probably because the reamer is cutting along the whole depth of the hole at the same time.

 

[ashman]

It's probably because the reamer is cutting along the whole depth of the hole at the same time.

Exactly my thought. a drill bit is only ever cutting at the tip, so I never had an issue with that.

 

[kennyw]

Exactly my thought. a drill bit is only ever cutting at the tip, so I never had an issue with that.

It's probably because the reamer is cutting along the whole depth of the hole at the same time.

That is what the reamer is doing.

 

[ashman]

Been working a lot lately, so not much ti.e to work on this, but i did start replacing the u joints today. Unfortunately I managed to bend one of the yokes.


Anybody got any good methods for bending back out?

 

[kennyw]

How long of a pipe do you have handy? You could try clamping the ear and using a cheater pipe (preferably with a close fit to the axleshaft) to apply force to the axle shaft with a long lever.

 

[Blue85]

I think there's a pretty tight tolerance that U-joints will live through, so you might end up having to replace it. The spacing has to be right, the two ears have to be parallel to each other and the ears have to be the same distance from center, or it will be off balance. Are you confident that just one side is bent?

Maybe a giant bolt through it, with nuts and washers against the inside of each ear. Figure out a way to make good measurements against the shaft center line. Keep tightening the nuts while hitting it with a big torch. Release bolt tension periodically to measure for straightness, etc, comparing to a good one.