That map sensor gonna handle the heat there? Not sure on specs, but if it gives problems could go remote
CK5
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Pigeon-Rat - Opel gambler build
- Thread starter ashman
- Start date
1966 Opel rekord mounted to 1990 Nissan pathfinder.
My guess is that hole is for a NPT-hose barb nipple. I can't remember seeing a thread-in MAP before.
Was looking at this on my phone, Instead of laptop. But sorta looks like 2 sensors there. You may be right though
I did put both sensors there.
As you can see, the MAP sensor is a screw in type. It is 1/8 npt, so it's designed to screw right into the manifold, but would be easy enough to go remote if it's an issue.
I got curious, so found this on google:
Looks like I'll be fine.
Looks like I'll be fine.
I got the last of the sensors hooked and got my first start!
www.instagram.com
Now that I know it'll run, it's time to finish the install correctly.
The new ecu uses wide band O2 sensors, so i pulled the old narrow band sensors out
Rich condition confirmed!
For whatever, no matter what I did with the nissan ecu, it kept dumping fuel.
Can't wait to see how the new ecu performs once it's been tuned.
Josh Ashman on Instagram: "First start! Got the engine to start running on the megasquirt gold box ecu! Lots of work left to do, but she's a runner boys! . . . #megasquirt #efi #opel #nissan #vg33erswap #supercharged"
42 likes, 5 comments - ashmanjosh on December 4, 2024: "First start! Got the engine to start running on the megasquirt gold box ecu! Lots of work left to do, but she's a runner boys! . . . #megasquirt #efi #opel #nissan #vg33erswap #supercharged".
www.instagram.com
Now that I know it'll run, it's time to finish the install correctly.
The new ecu uses wide band O2 sensors, so i pulled the old narrow band sensors out
Rich condition confirmed!
For whatever, no matter what I did with the nissan ecu, it kept dumping fuel.
Can't wait to see how the new ecu performs once it's been tuned.
I now have the ecu fully installed! I still need to put the dash back together, but the ecu is in it's final resting place under the passenger seat.
Now that it's in, I need to set up the initial tune. I am going to get it professionally tuned on a dyno, but for now I just need to get the inital timing set.
I have these instructions from the ecu/harness builder:
I'm using tuner studio and this is the options page:
This is my first time dealing with tuning software, so any help would be appreciated. As you can see, I set the timing to "fixed" (upper right) and the timing for fixed is set to 20*. However, using the timing light, I'm like 90* off on the timing. I think I need to adjust the tooth #1 angle to pull it into the correct position, but I'm not sure what I'm looking at. It's currently set at 345. I assume that is 345* out of 360*?
Before I start messing with that, any advice?
Now that it's in, I need to set up the initial tune. I am going to get it professionally tuned on a dyno, but for now I just need to get the inital timing set.
I have these instructions from the ecu/harness builder:
I'm using tuner studio and this is the options page:
This is my first time dealing with tuning software, so any help would be appreciated. As you can see, I set the timing to "fixed" (upper right) and the timing for fixed is set to 20*. However, using the timing light, I'm like 90* off on the timing. I think I need to adjust the tooth #1 angle to pull it into the correct position, but I'm not sure what I'm looking at. It's currently set at 345. I assume that is 345* out of 360*?
Before I start messing with that, any advice?
I’ll give my two cents but that sounds similar to the Holley terminator setup.
Roll the engine back to 50* BTDC
Stick distributor in with rotor pointing at #1
Rotate distributor body until crank sensor light turns off
Rotate distributor body until it just turns back on
Lock distributor down
Set crank timing in software to static 20*
Unplug injector harness
Crank engine and verify timing light matches commanded timing
Rotate distributor body to match commanded crank timing
Plug injector harness in
Start engine
In speaking to Holley, the 50* btdc is the dwell time needed for spark to occur but it’s a starting point and not 100% dead on. So that’s why they say to crank with injectors unplugged so you can get everything just right.
You might need to do something similar on your setup.
Roll the engine back to 50* BTDC
Stick distributor in with rotor pointing at #1
Rotate distributor body until crank sensor light turns off
Rotate distributor body until it just turns back on
Lock distributor down
Set crank timing in software to static 20*
Unplug injector harness
Crank engine and verify timing light matches commanded timing
Rotate distributor body to match commanded crank timing
Plug injector harness in
Start engine
In speaking to Holley, the 50* btdc is the dwell time needed for spark to occur but it’s a starting point and not 100% dead on. So that’s why they say to crank with injectors unplugged so you can get everything just right.
You might need to do something similar on your setup.
Things appear to be mismatched. What is the actual physical configuration? If you have a distributor, then you don't have coil on plug. Does that distributor actually have a 24-2 tooth wheel inside of it? Are you using single coil driven by the MS3 box? You've selected cam wheel, implying that you're either reading from the distributor pickup or added a cam sensor. If there really is a wheel, you should be able to get a decent guess of where the tooth is compared to #1 based on physical inspection. If it's an old-school distributor with a basic pickup coil inside, then the first setting "spark mode" needs to change.This is my first time dealing with tuning software, so any help would be appreciated. As you can see, I set the timing to "fixed" (upper right) and the timing for fixed is set to 20*. However, using the timing light, I'm like 90* off on the timing. I think I need to adjust the tooth #1 angle to pull it into the correct position, but I'm not sure what I'm looking at. It's currently set at 345. I assume that is 345* out of 360*?
Before I start messing with that, any advice?
When I first did Megasquirt, I used an HEI driven by the box, then later went to waste spark and crank trigger wheel, so I've been through a lot of this, but those distributor days were a long time ago!
A quick search says that these Nissans have an optical distributor. Is this what you have?
If so, how is it wired into the ECU? I don't think MS can count that outer ring (it's hundreds of slots), but you could probably count just the inner 6-slot ring. With a distributor, the angle reading can be off by any multiple of 60 degrees. The ECU doesn't know which plug it's firing, just that it's time to fire one (there is no absolute position).
If so, how is it wired into the ECU? I don't think MS can count that outer ring (it's hundreds of slots), but you could probably count just the inner 6-slot ring. With a distributor, the angle reading can be off by any multiple of 60 degrees. The ECU doesn't know which plug it's firing, just that it's time to fire one (there is no absolute position).
There's a crank sensor light?
I'm pretty sure you can create one. Your MS has LEDs on it, right? You can select what events turns them on and off. Depending on how the internal wiring in the ECU was done, it could be called IRQ-1 or something like that. Then whenever the optical sensor is lined up with a slot, the light will turn on.
In the dual sync distributors there is a crank and cam sensor light inside the housing. They turn off and on as the sensor passes over the contacts.
Seeing it set to 24-2 makes me wonder if one of these has been installed: https://www.diyautotune.com/product/nissan-optical-trigger-wheel/
You are correct sir! I was just coming to post that. I modified my distributor with that trigger wheel and added LS style coils.
I think my problem is just getting the tooth#1 angle set correctly. I'm going to mess with it today and see if I can't get it dialed in.
Ah, this is starting to make sense!
The instructions here say to set the angle at 60 BTDC. That implies the missing teeth will be a bit ahead of the sensor with engine at #1TDC (compression). Since you aren't using the spark towers, I think you can set it up with the distributor cap off and look at the wheel.
https://www.diyautotune.com/wp-content/uploads/CAS-wheel.pdf
The instructions here say to set the angle at 60 BTDC. That implies the missing teeth will be a bit ahead of the sensor with engine at #1TDC (compression). Since you aren't using the spark towers, I think you can set it up with the distributor cap off and look at the wheel.
https://www.diyautotune.com/wp-content/uploads/CAS-wheel.pdf
Well, I figured out my issue, and the above quote should have been a clue. Turns out I had the #1 and #5 plug wires crossed, so basically I was trying to check the timing with the timing light on the #5 plug wire.
I got it to run about as well as I could, but I was still getting 2 large backfires, so I rechecked the wires and found the issue. With those wires fixed, she's purring like a kitten.
I need to fix an exhaust leak and fix an issue with my fender brackets and then she's ready to head off to the tuner! I'll call on Monday to get that scheduled. Hopefully I can get it in soon after the new year.
Any guesses on HP numbers?
And then ttb goodness?!
It will be good to get new pictures once you get it tuned. It's a unique rig for sure.
It will be good to get new pictures once you get it tuned. It's a unique rig for sure.
I sure plan on it!
I got the dyno tuning done Friday. The overall HP numbers are a little disappointing, until you compare them to stock.
The 2002 xterra VG33ER engine is listed at 210hp. Obviously that is at the crank. @72gmck5 found this dyno for a stock engine:
Max HP 129.9.
Here is my sheet from Friday:
Max HP 166.16
Given that I'm used to seeing V8 LS numbers, that was pretty disappointing, but after looking at the stock numbers, I'm still up 36hp, so that's actually not too bad. Torque curve is pretty flat too.
We had a couple of issues to deal with as well. First thing we noticed is a lot of steam coming out the exhaust, and it ended up being almost a gallon low on coolant (after I made sure it was full the night before). Soon after that, we realized that the lower radiator hose wasn't getting warm, so obviously the thermostat wasn't opening.
If you'll recall, I blew a head gasket before the last time I ran it because of overheating, and it overheated a bunch on the last trip as well. Evidently I've blown a head gasket again. At some point my temp gauge stopped working also.
So, all of that is to say, that tomorrow I'm going to tear the engine down again and replace the head gaskets, thermostat, and temp sensor. since this isn't an emergency tear down, I'll take the heads in and make sure they are still flat before reinstalling them.
The overheating issue didn't keep us from getting the tune dialed in though. We've got the AFR dialed in nicely and it's actually running pretty smoothly. Being able to actually see what the megasquirt ECU is doing after fighting the stock Nissan ECU is such a relief.
The tuner did tell me that he thinks there is still more horsepower to be gained. First, because of the overheating issue, the engine was obviously hot. He thinks that a cool engine would get about 10hp more.
The blown head gasket has to be costing me compression, so there is a little there as well.
Lastly, the guy that built my megasquirt harness did not include a knock sensor. The tuner said that as he was adding timing it was still gaining hp, but the gains were slowing down so he was getting nervous about adding any more without a knock sensor. I checked my documentation, and the megasquirt3 system does support a knock sensor, so while I have the engine torn down, I'll install a fresh sensor and run the wires to the ecu.
I would have prefered to be "done" with the engine for now, but hopefully one last tear down and it'll be done for awhile. Hopefully I'll have some driving in by the end of the week.
The 2002 xterra VG33ER engine is listed at 210hp. Obviously that is at the crank. @72gmck5 found this dyno for a stock engine:
Max HP 129.9.
Here is my sheet from Friday:
Max HP 166.16
Given that I'm used to seeing V8 LS numbers, that was pretty disappointing, but after looking at the stock numbers, I'm still up 36hp, so that's actually not too bad. Torque curve is pretty flat too.
We had a couple of issues to deal with as well. First thing we noticed is a lot of steam coming out the exhaust, and it ended up being almost a gallon low on coolant (after I made sure it was full the night before). Soon after that, we realized that the lower radiator hose wasn't getting warm, so obviously the thermostat wasn't opening.
If you'll recall, I blew a head gasket before the last time I ran it because of overheating, and it overheated a bunch on the last trip as well. Evidently I've blown a head gasket again. At some point my temp gauge stopped working also.
So, all of that is to say, that tomorrow I'm going to tear the engine down again and replace the head gaskets, thermostat, and temp sensor. since this isn't an emergency tear down, I'll take the heads in and make sure they are still flat before reinstalling them.
The overheating issue didn't keep us from getting the tune dialed in though. We've got the AFR dialed in nicely and it's actually running pretty smoothly. Being able to actually see what the megasquirt ECU is doing after fighting the stock Nissan ECU is such a relief.
The tuner did tell me that he thinks there is still more horsepower to be gained. First, because of the overheating issue, the engine was obviously hot. He thinks that a cool engine would get about 10hp more.
The blown head gasket has to be costing me compression, so there is a little there as well.
Lastly, the guy that built my megasquirt harness did not include a knock sensor. The tuner said that as he was adding timing it was still gaining hp, but the gains were slowing down so he was getting nervous about adding any more without a knock sensor. I checked my documentation, and the megasquirt3 system does support a knock sensor, so while I have the engine torn down, I'll install a fresh sensor and run the wires to the ecu.
I would have prefered to be "done" with the engine for now, but hopefully one last tear down and it'll be done for awhile. Hopefully I'll have some driving in by the end of the week.
What kind of boost numbers are you running? And what were the air temps going in?
