so I’m looking to fix my front pinion angle and caster on my front Dana 60. Where are you measuring from to find the degree? I have 7” ORD springs, with the longer shackles, and zero rate 1” block.
CK5
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Pinion angle Dana 60
- Thread starter 84k5oleyeller
- Start date
Most people use the top of the king pin.
rampage
3/4 ton status
To measure the pinion angle I’d place a straight edge vertically on the snout where the pinion exits then place the angle finder on that. The first way you measured it, it’s hard to tell if there’s a taper to the snout or not. And the third way you measured it there appears to be a slight taper. If you’re just using the measurement as a reference for a before and after then any location will do.
Edit:
Your Zero Rates don’t seem to be installed correctly - see the gap under the one u-bolt. Pretty sure the rounded corners face up. Never installed them so maybe someone else will clarify. And I hate to post a competitor of ORD but I couldn’t find an installation video for them.
Edit again:
https://www.offroaddesign.com/pub/media/productattach/z/e/zero_rate_add-a-leaf_instructions.pdf
Edit:
Your Zero Rates don’t seem to be installed correctly - see the gap under the one u-bolt. Pretty sure the rounded corners face up. Never installed them so maybe someone else will clarify. And I hate to post a competitor of ORD but I couldn’t find an installation video for them.
Edit again:
https://www.offroaddesign.com/pub/media/productattach/z/e/zero_rate_add-a-leaf_instructions.pdf
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I know the focus of this post is to figure out what to do about the pinion angle but, between the 2, caster will be more important than pinion angle. The caster angle has a range so I'd set it close to or at the max (but not beyond) for drive-ability and then buy deep yokes or switch to u-joints with a better operating angle range to cope with the front driveshaft.
Unless you're willing to cut the knuckles loose or mill the pass side spring pad the 2 angles will likely never BOTH be completely happy on a lifted truck. With this in mind, for me, drive-ability is the first one to make happy.
Unless you're willing to cut the knuckles loose or mill the pass side spring pad the 2 angles will likely never BOTH be completely happy on a lifted truck. With this in mind, for me, drive-ability is the first one to make happy.
yes zero rate is in WRONG
yes caster is the ticket to good road manors .
when your this tall you start to play give and take with pinion angle and caster . the only true way to have both is to cut and turn the inner "C" and set the pinion angle and caster to were you need them and reweld the tubes to the inner "C" .
if you go shims on the leafs you need a 3 shim set to get the pass side DIFF pad and leaf plate to sit correctly since the 60 front has 2 bolt holes and no 4th u-bolt .
you might also look in to a bigger yoke and u-joint to help with the working angle . the best jump in size to max working angle is 1410 .
yes caster is the ticket to good road manors .
when your this tall you start to play give and take with pinion angle and caster . the only true way to have both is to cut and turn the inner "C" and set the pinion angle and caster to were you need them and reweld the tubes to the inner "C" .
if you go shims on the leafs you need a 3 shim set to get the pass side DIFF pad and leaf plate to sit correctly since the 60 front has 2 bolt holes and no 4th u-bolt .
you might also look in to a bigger yoke and u-joint to help with the working angle . the best jump in size to max working angle is 1410 .
Make sure your truck is on level ground.
Yes I put the zero rates in wrong. I’m going to be pulling it back apart and while I was there going to put degree shims in. I know I said pinion angle but I do want to get caster right more than pinion. I guess I was thinking they would be about the same at stock.
So caster spec is 7 degrees. Word on the street is you can deal with 4. Anywhere in between is ok.
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we talking caster ?
Correct.
So would we say mine is at 11 degrees from the measurement?
the caster is the relation between the lower and the upper knuckle mounting points, in this case the king pins.View attachment 346691
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I'd say you're close. But you need to measure with the spring in its correct/final location with those zero rates.
I’m unable to see this link
Fixed it
