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Pinion bearing baffle? (Please help me read gear pattern)

Fred_M1010

Fred_M1010

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In the rebuild kit for my dana 60, there was a baffle included ("H" in this picture)


But my front axle didn't have one to start with, should I use it?
(and remove a similar amount of pinion depth shims)
Or shouldn't I bother?
What purpose does it have anyway?
 
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you got read x

and good place to start is reuse the shim pack thats in there and check it.

then go from there on adjustments.
 
I've seen them with and without that slinger. I would put it back the way yours came apart.
 
OK, I left it out now.

But man was it a pita to set pinion preload:eek1:
I'm on my third attempt now, but it's to loose this time (was too tight last time)
In the papers I got with the rebuild-kit it says 17-30 inlbs, isn't that really much?:dunno:

For comparison, how much are wheel bearings supposed to be preloaded?
 
Fred_M1010 said:
OK, I left it out now.

But man was it a pita to set pinion preload:eek1:
I'm on my third attempt now, but it's to loose this time (was too tight last time)
In the papers I got with the rebuild-kit it says 17-30 inlbs, isn't that really much?:dunno:

For comparison, how much are wheel bearings supposed to be preloaded?
Click to expand...

My info says that pinion bearing preload should be 20-40 in/lbs with new bearings or 10-20 in/lbs with used bearings.

Preload is the amount of resistance it takes to rotate the pinion gear, 40 in/lbs = 3.33 ft/lbs so no that isn't very much. Remember that it requires a DIAL type torque wrench to check pinion bearing preload.
 
and not just the break away tourqe also. and dont forget a seal adds around 2in lb i have been told.

also you should prob use a setup nut till exact. then use the new nut.
 
Fred_M1010 said:
For comparison, how much are wheel bearings supposed to be preloaded?
Click to expand...

Yeah, its a lot more than wheel bearings. Pinion bearings are under a lot more stress.

BTW I believe the shim/baffle you pointed out goes between the upper pinion bearing and the pinion seal to keep oil off of the seal and make it less likely to leak.
 
4X4HIGH said:
My info says that pinion bearing preload should be 20-40 in/lbs with new bearings or 10-20 in/lbs with used bearings.

Preload is the amount of resistance it takes to rotate the pinion gear, 40 in/lbs = 3.33 ft/lbs so no that isn't very much. Remember that it requires a DIAL type torque wrench to check pinion bearing preload.
Click to expand...

I still think that is pretty tight for the rolling resistance of a bearing.
After all, 40in-lbs is 3.33 lbs at the end of a one foot long wrench...
I don't have a dial-type torque wrench,
instead I use a calibrated fishing scale on the end of a wrench and calculate the torque from that:o


sweetk30 said:
and not just the break away tourqe also. and dont forget a seal adds around 2in lb i have been told.

also you should prob use a setup nut till exact. then use the new nut.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I only bought one new nut, but I'm gonna need at least one more, I've already stripped the old one, and I'll need a new one for final install...

38377k5 said:
Yeah, its a lot more than wheel bearings. Pinion bearings are under a lot more stress.

BTW I believe the shim/baffle you pointed out goes between the upper pinion bearing and the pinion seal to keep oil off of the seal and make it less likely to leak.
Click to expand...

I know that it's supposed to go on the outside of the inner bearing, where the pinion depth shims are.
I just haven't figured out why...
But it makes sense that it's for oil control of some sorts.

There's another one outside of the outer bearing, and that one I already have.
 
Fred_M1010 said:
I still think that is pretty tight for the rolling resistance of a bearing.
After all, 40in-lbs is 3.33 lbs at the end of a one foot long wrench...
I don't have a dial-type torque wrench,
instead I use a calibrated fishing scale on the end of a wrench and calculate the torque from that:o
Click to expand...

Regardless of what "feels right" to you that is the spec. Basically if there isn't enough preload on the bearings things can deflect and then break. When there is no preload the rollers will start "skipping" over minute imperfections in the bearing which makes them worse and will quickly lead to failure of the bearing.



Fred_M1010 said:
I know that it's supposed to go on the outside of the inner bearing, where the pinion depth shims are.
I just haven't figured out why...
But it makes sense that it's for oil control of some sorts.

There's another one outside of the outer bearing, and that one I already have.
Click to expand...

Look at the diagram here about 1/3 of the way down, the washer/shim is number 8
 
I didn't so much doubt the spec, I just wanted to express my surprise when I realized how tight it should be,
and maybe give a heads up to anyone else out there who like me thinks it's easy to check pinion preload with a poorly calibrated elbow ;)

38377k5 said:
Look at the diagram here about 1/3 of the way down, the washer/shim is number 8
Click to expand...

I believe thats the thrust washer, the "baffle" isn't even included in that drawing.
The baffle has the same outer diameter as the pinion depth shims, so the only place it fits is outside of the inner bearing.

See a bit down in this link:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/articles/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup
 
I put that baffle in when building my D60. My guess is that it is supposed to keep more oil in the pinion bearings by slowing down the rate that the oil drains back into the housing. I have heard that some D60s have it and some don't. Perhaps it depends on pinion angle in the original application?
 
After a couple more tries I finally got the preload within spec.

But now I'm afraid my pinion-depth needs to be adjusted.
Could you please check out this pattern and tell me what you think:




Some more background info:
The backlash is within spec.
The gears are old, I've only swapped carrier and bearings.
Pinion depth shims are the same thickness as before.
I needed to decrease the pinion preload shims with 0.011", to get the correct preload.
 
Backlash is 0.007"
It should be between 0.006-0.010 according to Yukons installation instructions.
 
the pirate tech shows:
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Quick Ref Specs – Dana 60:[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Backlash
Set To: .004” - .009”
To decrease backlash – add shims to RGS
To increase backlash - add shims to non-RGS
Approx 0.007” change in backlash for every 0.010” carrier movement[/FONT]
Click to expand...
I just put 5.38s in my front 2 weeks ago. Mine came out at .005 -.006 BL. Decent pattern and tight on the gear (new bearings as well).
Hard to see pics how close to edge it is. Does the pattern look centered on tooth? Also could open BL a touch might help center pattern but I would leave it till you try pinion.
Figure_28.jpg
 
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I've read up on the subject now, and it doesn't matter that the pattern is offset towards the center of the ring gear.
The thing that matters is that it's even from the "top" to the "bottom" on the cog.

And as you can see, my pattern was offset towards the top, which means the pinion is too far away.
 
Fred_M1010 said:
I've read up on the subject now, and it doesn't matter that the pattern is offset towards the center of the ring gear.
The thing that matters is that it's even from the "top" to the "bottom" on the cog.

And as you can see, my pattern was offset towards the top, which means the pinion is too far away.
Click to expand...

Correct, and definitely, the pinion is not deep enough.
 
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