What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Pinion bearing replacement

True that, might as well do it right, gonna wait for the parts store to open tomorrow and try and finish this bad boy up
 
what are mm's?

This is amurica.
Should be a 1 1/4 on the pinion nut. you'll need that for the new crush sleeve.
 
I've replaced a few pinion bearings (the one closest to the driveshaft) only,when they were damaged by the yoke nut coming loose and it was caught early enough not to have damaged the lower pinion bearing (nearest the ring gear)...the challenging part was getting the outer race out of the diff housing somehow,with the pinion shaft still in place...a friend who's good with a welder showed me how to use an arc welder to "shrink" the race by welding on it in three spots,then letting it cool,it was easily wiggled out after that,and putting the new race in was pretty easy,along with a new crush cone---then the inner race,and the seal,dust deflector ,and pinion nut--I used a big pipe wrench to keep the yoke from turning as I torqued down the nut,I think that was probably the hardest part of the job,getting it sufficiently tight to crush the cone enough,but not overtourque it,with not much room under the truck to use a long breaker bar on the nut...
 
Haha, thanks, i am going to take this 29mm back and buy the amurican one. Now I have the parts on the way but I am wondering if any of the gurus know what size socket I can use to knock the race out?
 
diesel4me said:
I've replaced a few pinion bearings (the one closest to the driveshaft) only,when they were damaged by the yoke nut coming loose and it was caught early enough not to have damaged the lower pinion bearing (nearest the ring gear)...the challenging part was getting the outer race out of the diff housing somehow,with the pinion shaft still in place...a friend who's good with a welder showed me how to use an arc welder to "shrink" the race by welding on it in three spots,then letting it cool,it was easily wiggled out after that,and putting the new race in was pretty easy,along with a new crush cone---then the inner race,and the seal,dust deflector ,and pinion nut--I used a big pipe wrench to keep the yoke from turning as I torqued down the nut,I think that was probably the hardest part of the job,getting it sufficiently tight to crush the cone enough,but not overtourque it,with not much room under the truck to use a long breaker bar on the nut...
Click to expand...

So far, the parts I've bought for the differential are inner and outer pinion bearings, new seal and the race. I figured everything else could go back on like it was, the bearings on the diff have zero wiggle and there is only one shim on the whole setup, between the pinion gear and the inner pinion bearing, is there something else I need?
 
I was able to knock out the outer race and install the new one, getting myself settled in to finish up and I open up the outer pinion bearing and its not the right one, not the right seal either, now I have to wait again for the parts store to open tomorrow.
 
Well, that sucks.
You do know how to do a crush sleeve, right? Takes big pull......
 
I have never done a crush sleeve before, but I follow directions really well :-D
 
ericcarney said:
but I follow directions really well :-D
Click to expand...

:whistle: :whistle:

i gave you the link to gear setup way back in here. did you read it ?

its shim style in the writeup but same basic idea on crush sleave. but you start to crush it till its just right on the turning force.


you need special tourqe wrench for this. :rolleyes:
 
pay for a good one or get lucky and find used deal . otherwise barrow.

and you need dial wrench for checking turning force NOT act tightness of the nut .

and thay say check with out seal in place. but if crush sleave not gona happen so subtract 2-3" lbs for the drag of the seal thay say.

so if seal in and chacking you get say 18" lbs turning and spec is 15" lbs then 2-3 off the 18 = right on spec.

NOTE : not act specs just used for refrence info only. !
 
sweetk30 said:
you need special tourqe wrench for this. :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Or a good fishing scale:D
5082010101342b4b1.jpg
 
I borrowed mine from my dad. I have everything in, I torqued the pinion nut as hard as my 250lb torque wrench would go and the turning in-lbs is about 30-35 with the seal on and the guide said 25-40. I am going to look for some gear paint so I can make sure the gears are lined up right, and then close it fill it and drive it.
 
I am kind of concerned that alot of the tension when I turn the pinion nut is the contact between the case and the yoke, there is not any gap between them
 
Well, everything is back together, I didn't weld the diff, I'm just gonna save up and get a locker. I filled it up with gear oil and took it for a test drive, everything seem to be working well, there is no noise or drag or anything of that nature.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom