REDCRO_REDNECK
1/2 ton status
how much work is it to change the pinion seal in a 14 bolt semi float
CK5
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pinion seal problems
- Thread starter REDCRO_REDNECK
- Start date
It will be no different than a 10 bolt, except the pinion nut might be larger, didn't check that on mine. (remove yoke, pry out old seal , grease new seal "lip", smack it into place, reinstall yoke)
You will run the risk of screwing up the gear pattern/"engagement" removing the pinion yoke no matter how you pull it off. (counting/marking threads, etc)
I've done it multiple times on 10 bolts with no issues, but that doesn't mean one time it's not going to screw things up.
You'll want to loctite the threads on reassembly or replace that nut so it doesn't back off after awhile.
You will run the risk of screwing up the gear pattern/"engagement" removing the pinion yoke no matter how you pull it off. (counting/marking threads, etc)
I've done it multiple times on 10 bolts with no issues, but that doesn't mean one time it's not going to screw things up.
You'll want to loctite the threads on reassembly or replace that nut so it doesn't back off after awhile.
78Suburban
1/2 ton status
I need to change mine, but this really concerns me. I am a major noob, and I don't want to end up destroying a usable 14ff. By the same token I don't want to bendover for the local mechancis. so I am at a loss.dyeager535 said:
78Suburban said:I need to change mine, but this really concerns me. I am a major noob, and I don't want to end up destroying a usable 14ff. By the same token I don't want to bendover for the local mechancis. so I am at a loss.
Changing the pinion seal on anything but a FF14 bolt or a 9" will be considerably harder than the little writeup I did on one of 78suburbans posts. Just about every other rear end requires completer disassembly of the entire differential. I would not recommend removing the yoke, replacing the seal and reinstalling the yoke. I know many people have done it this way because they don't know how to do it right. The bottom line is you will be sacrificing some longevity of the rear end, period. There is no way of telling how much: it may last 100,000 more miles or 100. Without doing it right there is no way of knowing if you set it back up right (its very unlikely the preload is right setting it up this way). If you choose to do it the way previously posted, remember to always replace the pinion nut as this WILL come loose and burn you every time if you don't.
I would suspect that for anyone else like me that has done it the "wrong way", we figure who cares if the 10 bolt comes apart because of it, the time/money spent replacing the pinion seal correctly in a 10 bolt would be better spent replacing the 10 bolt with something better. 
