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Pinion Seal / Yoke Removal

Don't get carried away with this unless the bearings are shot, put it back with new seal for now. You have other things better to do on the truck.
I drove my blazer for years with just a new seal.

IMO. Craig

And I carefully used an impact
 
blazinzuk said:
Like I said before it depends on your impact.

I have had crush sleeves that stalled a 20 ton press.

I mean your talking axle out on the floor, pipe wrench holding the yoke, me ( near 300 lbs) on a 6 ft long breaker bar. Can't even move the thing. Took a 10 ft breaker bar with me on it. To tighten it we went back to the 6 ft breaker bar

Even my buddys 1000 dollar 3/4" drive snap on impact would not touch it. AFTER we started the crushing

Of course I have had crush sleeves that literally an 1/8 of a turn made em too tight.

Just do it like was said above and tighten the crush sleeve just a tick past your mark.
Click to expand...


14 bolt huh....
 
need help

There is a shiny ring around the pinion where the old oil seal was...I can't feel it but it could be a "micro-groove"

need to know whether to proceed or replace it...I am oing to tak pics now
 
2013-08-24_zps6f572165.jpg


2013-08-24_1_zps1e2ae532.jpg
 
if you can hang your fingernail up in it, take it down to a decent parts store and have em give you a "speedy sleeve" to go over it...
 
Yep, its a microgroove. But its got so much micro and so little groove, I would not worry about it.
If you can, just seat the new seal slightly deeper or shallower than the one you took out and it will run on a different part of the yoke.

If you drag your thumbnail across and it does not snag, its just a polished spot. Nothing to worry about.
 
From the pic, I doubt it's worth sleeving. Looks pretty normal. You can also clean it with scotch brite.

As said, if you can't catch it with your fingernail, and it's totally free of burrs that could tear up the new seal, u should be good.

Fordum had a good suggestion about driving the other seal a little shallow so that it rides in a different spot. This should work if you're concerned about it. I would add that if you're not driving the seal in fully, be sure to put a little RTV between the OD of the seal and the housing to keep oil from leaking. I do this anyway, but especially if shallow-seating.

Edit: As for de-burring, I usually go at it with scotch brite and steel wool. Seal needs a smooth finish. One trick is to rub a used dryer sheet around it. If it pulls the dryer sheet apart, keep polishing.
 
I could not feel the groove so I installed the yoke...

Crap! That's a rough job for an old man...I am muscle spasms all over...my right index finger just clamped down and almost came out of socket.

Took me 7 hours to do the whole job and that includes cleaning and painting the diff cover.

I marked the parts with a chisel but the yoke wasn't torqued down. I didn't have much trouble getting the nut loose. When I put it back together I hand tightened it...the nut mark was at 3 o'clock and the yoke mark was at 6 o'clock.

I torqued it down till that mark was 1/16th inch past.

I hope I didn't over do it but honestly, it was sloppy before I touch it so either somebody didn't tighten it all the way down or it vibrated loose.

It is not leaking right now.

I could not find out the capacity of the diff...seems like it took a little over 2 quarts till it was flowing out the fill hole. :dunno:
 
Plus 1/16 should be fine, surprised that's all it took to get tight
If it was loose before. Check it again after u get a chance to drive it a little.

I had the same deal years ago and never a problem after.

My hand cramp too and have slowed down, just turned 50.
 
blazer74 said:
Plus 1/16 should be fine, surprised that's all it took to get tight
If it was loose before. Check it again after u get a chance to drive it a little.

I had the same deal years ago and never a problem after.

My hand cramp too and have slowed down, just turned 50.
Click to expand...

I tightened it with a half inch ratchet and a breaker bar...it wasn't easy...that's what made me worry about it...I put some serious torque on it.
 
I think you're gonna be OK. If you could still turn the yoke by hand (lots of variables: tires on/drum brake adjustment/ etc) it will be ok. You just need to add 'some' preload. That's why you go a little past the original tick. Slop can be just as bad.
 
I could definitely still turn the yoke by hand and no slop
 
I'll bet it's fine, self locking nut makes it a little harder also.
A little locktite next time.
 
I now hear a chirping noise coming from the pinion area. I replaced the u-joints already and they have very few miles on them...I doubt it is the u-joint.

What can the chirping be and how should I troubleshoot it....or should I drive it few miles and see if it quits?

Or is it a sign that I got the pre-load too tight on the pinion? :dunno:
 
Sounds like a u-joint, did you drop a cap while it was apart?
Is the joint seated in the yoke properly?
 
I second the U-Joint idea. Overtight pinion bearings don't usually chirp.You may have lost a needle out of one of the caps, or like he said its not seated right.

Also, look at the flange on the yoke. If it got bent it might be rubbing against the rear end housing.
 
that means another session under the rig...
 
Yeah, I second the seal dust cover on the yoke. They can get bent ever-so-slightly from being dropped on the ground or 'persuasive' maneuvers while taking it on or off. If it's bent, It could be touching the housing while spinning. The good news is it's easy to check and you can straighten it back out by prying on it with a screwdriver if need by.

U-joint is possible too.

.
 
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