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Pinion yoke problems

Chrisblazzer89

Chrisblazzer89

1/2 ton status
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OK I went to hook up my front drive shaft to the front pinion yoke and I find out that one of the holes in the yoke has a broken bolt about half way in what do i do?

I have a spare 10B front that i can take the yoke off of.
would the yoke be the same on the 3/4 ton 10B and the 1/2 ton 10B?
 
Same yoke be be aware that those axles use crush sleeves and a new one is supposed to be installed anytime the yoke is taken off. Since it is a front axle it isn't as critical but i would somehow find out what the required torque to turn the pinion is BEFORE you remove the old yoke then try to get the new yoke the same as the old one.
 
Chrisblazzer89 said:
Ok anyone have a step by step on how to do this?
Click to expand...

I just told you the basic theory.

Here it is in reality. Put an inch pound torque wrench (either dial or beam type) on the pinion nut and rotate the pinion with the torque wrench while seeing how many inch pounds it takes to make it rotate. Now swap yokes and tighten the nut SLOWLY and achieve the same or very close figure and you're done.
 
4X4HIGH said:
I just told you the basic theory.

Here it is in reality. Put an inch pound torque wrench (either dial or beam type) on the pinion nut and rotate the pinion with the torque wrench while seeing how many inch pounds it takes to make it rotate. Now swap yokes and tighten the nut SLOWLY and achieve the same or very close figure and you're done.
Click to expand...

That's not going to work very well with the carrier and axle shafts installed. It takes lots of torque to turn all that stuff even with no tires installed.

If you are going to do it the half assed (not replacing the crush sleeve) way, at least remove the axle shafts. You will be much closer without having all that extra resistance.

If I was doing it, I would remove the carrier too. I have lots of experience setting up gears though.
 
I totally agree with you but in this case doesn't really matter as you're only trying to get the same "reading" regardless of how much or little it is.
 
easy way out...

I had the same dilema in my 74 K20,when the front shaft blew the u-joint at the pinion end,when plowing one day--..needing to get the truck fixed ASAP to finish my plowing route,I cared not if I half-assed it back together,I'd fix it "right" later!.

Well,all I ended up doing was drilling the bolt out with a 5/16" drill,(mine broke off halfway in the hole in the yoke too)--and went all the way through the yoke,and used a 5/16" bolt and a nut on the back of the yoke,rather than try drilling it and using E-Z outs, or tapping new threads,or swap on another yoke (I had two on other front axles,but didn't want to waste time,and hated to "F" up the pinion preload!)...

I drove it that way from 1995 until last year!..never "fixed" the yoke!..I'd say just drill it right out and use a bolt and a nut!..the bolt has to be the perfect length so it wont rub on the pinion seal--I just used a hacksaw to "shorten" it to the right length..I used a grade 5 bolt,all I had available..a grade 8 would have been better maybe,but I never hurt the one I put there!...I would not be afraid to do this again...:crazy:
 
4X4HIGH said:
I totally agree with you but in this case doesn't really matter as you're only trying to get the same "reading" regardless of how much or little it is.
Click to expand...

With the shafts in and spinning both hubs I would bet that the torque required will be more than your inch pound torque wrench can read.

If its not, go for it :waytogo:
 
Get a Haynes repair manual, it explains what needs to be done.
 
diesel4me said:
I had the same dilema in my 74 K20,when the front shaft blew the u-joint at the pinion end,when plowing one day--..needing to get the truck fixed ASAP to finish my plowing route,I cared not if I half-assed it back together,I'd fix it "right" later!.

Well,all I ended up doing was drilling the bolt out with a 5/16" drill,(mine broke off halfway in the hole in the yoke too)--and went all the way through the yoke,and used a 5/16" bolt and a nut on the back of the yoke,rather than try drilling it and using E-Z outs, or tapping new threads,or swap on another yoke (I had two on other front axles,but didn't want to waste time,and hated to "F" up the pinion preload!)...

I drove it that way from 1995 until last year!..never "fixed" the yoke!..I'd say just drill it right out and use a bolt and a nut!..the bolt has to be the perfect length so it wont rub on the pinion seal--I just used a hacksaw to "shorten" it to the right length..I used a grade 5 bolt,all I had available..a grade 8 would have been better maybe,but I never hurt the one I put there!...I would not be afraid to do this again...:crazy:
Click to expand...
Bring those one back to the top. I`m putting my 3/4tons in this weekend, and the front yoke has a bolt broken in it. Can I do the same thing Bob did?
 
is there any bit of the bolt sticking out? If so, you weld a nut to it. The heat will shrink the broken bolt and all you do is turn that mutha out.
 
New yoke...
Drill it ruin the threads and use a nut and bolt.

what about takin the yoke off, bringing it over my place, we can set it up in the drill press and drill into the bolt then get an extractor in there and hopefully remove it without messin up the threads.
 
chiefheaphy said:
Drill it ruin the threads and use a nut and bolt.

what about takin the yoke off, bringing it over my place, we can set it up in the drill press and drill into the bolt then get an extractor in there and hopefully remove it without messin up the threads.
Click to expand...
Well, I`m betting its going to be a PIA to drill and use and ezout. I think, for now, I`ll do what Bob did. Drill it straight through, use a grade 8 bolts, and nylon locking nuts.
 
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