pitman arm for cross over steering

[Fred_M1010]

I doubt ORD is getting their arm manufactured. It's probably stock for one of the vehicles already mentioned in this thread (actually 2, since they sell 2 different drops).

I think you are correct in assuming that.
My crossover pitman arm from WFO is based on one from a Jeep TJ/YJ,
but it is modified with a bigger hole for the DLE, and the keyways in the splines are grinded off.

But good reamers are really expensive, and it's hard to grind off the spline keyways in a hole.
So it isn't so expensive to buy one from a 4x4 shop after all...

From pictures floating around, it looks like the high clearance crossmember is only needed for short lifts, straight drag link, etc. It seems like with 4"+ and the bent link it can be made to work.

I have about 4-5" of lift, and only have a slight rub against my stock crossmember with my bent draglink, when steering fully to the right.
It's better the closer to the steering box you can have the first bend in the drag link, so a shorter DLE is recommended,
like the ones that most 4x4 shop is selling that look like a TRE.
(but don't mistake them for a TRE, cause a TRE can't handle much angle at all)
I use stock DLE:s now and they are pretty long, but if I used a shorter one it wouldn't rub at all.

 

[jekquistk5]

You don't have to swap the boxes just the sector shaft from a 2wd. I picked up the box for 15 at a pick and pull, then the arm from wfo already reamed for like 60.

I had about 3" of lift with the 52 swap and the bent drag link and never rubbed. Then again my axle was a little bit farther forward.

 

[Blue85]

It's better the closer to the steering box you can have the first bend in the drag link, so a shorter DLE is recommended,
like the ones that most 4x4 shop is selling that look like a TRE.
(but don't mistake them for a TRE, cause a TRE can't handle much angle at all)
I use stock DLE:s now and they are pretty long, but if I used a shorter one it wouldn't rub at all.

ORD is putting regular TREs at both ends of the drag link and it's for that reason. I've heard rumors of a "double ball" in a standard TRE package size, but I don't see anybody selling it. I've read standard TREs can handle about 30 degrees, while DLEs can handle about 60 degrees.

You could reason that since a crossover DL is more than 3x longer than push-pull, you could live with half the angle. I'm guessing at numbers, but if the stock DL is 18", 60 degrees gives you about 15" suspension droop possible. If the crossover DL is 5' long, it takes 30" of suspension travel to put the TRE at 30 degrees.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

ORD is putting regular TREs at both ends of the drag link and it's for that reason. I've heard rumors of a "double ball" in a standard TRE package size, but I don't see anybody selling it. I've read standard TREs can handle about 30 degrees, while DLEs can handle about 60 degrees.

You could reason that since a crossover DL is more than 3x longer than push-pull, you could live with half the angle. I'm guessing at numbers, but if the stock DL is 18", 60 degrees gives you about 15" suspension droop possible. If the crossover DL is 5' long, it takes 30" of suspension travel to put the TRE at 30 degrees.

We don't use "regular" TRE's per se, they are built specifically for us for crossover steering. There are parts store ends that look like them and that will technically thread in, but like you said they can't take very much angle. The reason we have them built specifically is to take much more angle than parts store TRE's as well as to have a bit more thread for strength and adjustability. We prefer the shorter tie rod end style shank because it's harder to bend and we can start the offset bend in the draglink sooner, which is key for clearing the engine crossmember.

 

[Blue85]

Good to know. Reading the web site makes it look like regular TREs are OK. The description is just "These are Spicer HD type ends". Seems like a feature worth advertising.

 

[Blue85]

What doesnt' make sense to me is why these extra short, high-angle ends are used at both ends of the DL and both ends of the tie rod. A regular DLE would be fine at the steering arm and regular TREs would be fine on the tie rod. A solid axle puts very little angle into TREs. The only place needing a custom piece is the DLE that connects to the pitman arm.

The only advantage I can see is fewer spare parts in your rig. And of course for ORD, fewer parts to stock.