tyler__820
1/2 ton status
Do you guys think even a small plasma cutter could cut the rivets of the frame on my truck?
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Plasma cutter
- Thread starter tyler__820
- Start date
shaun89
1/2 ton status
i would say no...thats just a guess
it would be hard to cut rivets with a plas IMO. Use a turch and trim head off then use punch to knock em out or my favorite is to use an air hammer with a chisel head to cut head off then a punch head to knock it out. Either way would be less that a minute per rivet.
do they make a scarfing tip for plasmas? i've never seen one.
I did all of mine with a mid size plasma cutter. Just like a torch. Take the head off and punch it out. I have also used a 4.5" grinder, a cutting wheel for the same grinder and a die grinder. Just depends on how fast and rough you want to be. If you are saving frame or bracket, use the grinders and take you time.
tyler__820
1/2 ton status
Well i am kinda of in a dilema. you see im out of gases for the torch and i friend has a plasma cutter. And i need to cut those little bastards off so i can put my shackle flip on and then for the front i have brackets like kert's b52's. so would a cut off wheel and grinder be my best bet? i dont want to be there all night.....
I think its actually called a gouging tip. Its just a hella large orifice basically. Really dull, blunt plasma cone.
You can use it to gouge out welds or in this case wash the rivet head off. Compared to grinding it'd be pretty fast. Of course there's always the downside of digging to deep and punch a hole in the frame. You can sure do it if your careful though.
Scarfing tip (torch) has the advantage of the shape to get in flat.
yeah, I had a gouging tip but I think a torch or air chisel would be cleaner. If you re-heat the rivet head only then torch it you won't even hurt the frame. have stripped entire semi frames this way with very minimal problems.
I pretty much always use a torch to do the rivet removal job. Just a regular cutting tip though. Not hard to do.
I'm sure you could do it with a plasma.....two caveats:
1. The molten metal tends to blow right back into your face when you try to perforate metal (vs. starting from an existing hole, or edge of a panel). Not sexy.
2. The molten metal that does end up blowing out the other side is going to be spraying against your gas tank. (assuming you aren't pullling it for the shackleflip)....even less sexy!
For a guy with simple tools, just centerpunch the rivet to create a spot for the drillbit to stay anchored to...then run a 1/8" drillbit at low speed until you drill through the head of the rivet and slightly beyond (you don't have to go all the way through). Move up to a larger bit...repeat.
Eventually you'll hollow-out the inside of the rivet body where it passes through the frame, making it weak enough that you can drive it out with a drift and a hammer.
(A variation on this method is to use an angle grinder to knock down the rivet head first, then follow up with the drill bit technique)
It's not as fast as an air-chisel, but with a little patience and no special tools anyone can do it this way. FWIW, this is how I've removed every rivet so far.... I don't own an air chisel and probably never will.
1. The molten metal tends to blow right back into your face when you try to perforate metal (vs. starting from an existing hole, or edge of a panel). Not sexy.
2. The molten metal that does end up blowing out the other side is going to be spraying against your gas tank. (assuming you aren't pullling it for the shackleflip)....even less sexy!
For a guy with simple tools, just centerpunch the rivet to create a spot for the drillbit to stay anchored to...then run a 1/8" drillbit at low speed until you drill through the head of the rivet and slightly beyond (you don't have to go all the way through). Move up to a larger bit...repeat.
Eventually you'll hollow-out the inside of the rivet body where it passes through the frame, making it weak enough that you can drive it out with a drift and a hammer.
(A variation on this method is to use an angle grinder to knock down the rivet head first, then follow up with the drill bit technique)
It's not as fast as an air-chisel, but with a little patience and no special tools anyone can do it this way. FWIW, this is how I've removed every rivet so far.... I don't own an air chisel and probably never will.
wayne
3/4 ton status
I say give it a try.
What I normally do is use a drill. I drill a pilot hole, I don't normally drill all the way through, just past the outer frame. Then I use a large bit, I believe it's a half inch, and drill the head off and knock the rest out with a hammer and punch.
What I normally do is use a drill. I drill a pilot hole, I don't normally drill all the way through, just past the outer frame. Then I use a large bit, I believe it's a half inch, and drill the head off and knock the rest out with a hammer and punch.
i grind flat and punch it
I used a combination of the drill method, with a chisel.
Get a bit that is large enough to weaken the rivet deep below the depth of the frame, then take a sharp chisel and knock the head off.
How I took out the engine crossmember on the donor truck. That's assuming you can get a drill in there. It's fast as long as your bits and chisel are sharp.
Get a bit that is large enough to weaken the rivet deep below the depth of the frame, then take a sharp chisel and knock the head off.
How I took out the engine crossmember on the donor truck. That's assuming you can get a drill in there. It's fast as long as your bits and chisel are sharp.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
If you're going to grind down the heads, a cutoff wheel makes it a lot easier for the ones you can access enough to just slice off.
I tried the plasma ONCE. The molten metal blow-back sucked. If you do use the plasma, check the back side of the frame for anything that could be damaged by the heat, and make sure you don't jack up the holes that the rivets were in.
I went right back to the trusted grinder, cut-off wheel, punch and hammer which got the job done pretty quick.
I went right back to the trusted grinder, cut-off wheel, punch and hammer which got the job done pretty quick.
I've found the best way is cutting torch, nip it with the grinder to flatten it, put a pilot hole in and punch it thru with an air hammer (I use a chopped off bit, just the shank)..
if you just grind or cut em, then try to punch thru, they can be tough.. the expansion of the rivet on install makes them very tight going thru unless you have done a pilot hole. it allows that give...
I tried a couple with the plasma, torch is a million times more effective...
if you just grind or cut em, then try to punch thru, they can be tough.. the expansion of the rivet on install makes them very tight going thru unless you have done a pilot hole. it allows that give...
I tried a couple with the plasma, torch is a million times more effective...
GiantTechGuy
Registered Member
Yes like others here have stated, gouge it. Just start with the amps at the lowest setting and increase as you get the feel for it! You can get pretty precise with plasma gouging. If you don't have the special gouging nozzle just give it a try with the normal ones, just angle the plasma jet to the surface of the cut to avoid as much blow back as you can.
