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PLEASE HELP! '76 K10 won't even turn over!

Good Morning,

Thanks for the info guys, especially on the fusible links, it really helps out.

I'm going to pull the starter and test it here in about 5 mins. and check out the wiring. I will report what I see and probably take some photos and post them too (maybe my eyes will miss something.

Thanks again my CK5 Brethren!
 
Ok, so here's some photos of what my junk looks like.

Fusible links on firewall:

20140621_093221_zpsceaab977.jpg


Wiring on starter:

20140621_093323_zpsb34573e9.jpg


The wiring to starter:

20140621_093338_zps0698aeee.jpg


Same stuff as the photo above, just a different view (the wire on the left/bottom is Red and the on the right/top is Blue)

20140621_093349_zps1309d4bf.jpg


I'm going back out in a few mins. to try and get that metal tubing off of those wires and see whats going on inside of there.

How hard is it to trace and access these wires... the fusible links on the firewall and the ones coming from the starter?
 
diesel4me,

I'm looking forward to your guidance on the mod for the wires/ fusible links on the starter.
 
Ok. Just tested the starter with jumper cables. All 3 parts on the starter work just fine.
 
Looks like it's already had the fusible links and OEM wires at the starter replaced,though I don't see any fusible links there,just wires!...those wires originally were routed in a metal tube that was bolted to the block or bell housing next to the tranny's dipstick...I don't see that in your picture,looks like someone just taped the wires up and tied then to the tranny cooler lines?.

EDIT--I see the tube now,its been moved from its original location,probably because of the headers..


Those other links up near the brake booster do look beat,I would replace them--parts stores sell new ones,you cut off the old wire after that rubber splice joint and solder them in...may need to use ring type solderless connectors on the end that screws to that plastic junction block...

All you need to do is run those two thick red wires that used to bolt under the battery positive cable at the starter,over to the battery itself,and connect them right to the positive post--all your doing is connecting them to a better spot to get 12V from--I would add 2 fusible links if they have been "deleted" too...

EDIT--after looking closer at the photos,it appears you have only ONE thick red wire instead of the usual two...some years only had one,or someone may have decided one wire was enough--in either case I'd add a fusible link to that wire,close to the battery,so it'll be easier to replace should a short happen in the future..

I used a battery cable that had an extra foot or so long 12 gauge wire coming out of the cable at the side post on my truck to connect to those 2 red wires too,or you can use ring type connectors under the bolt that holds the side post cable into the battery also,on a top post battery you can use the ring type terminals like they have already under the bolt & nut that clamps the cable to the battery..
 
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diesel4me,

I think I understand the mod now. Thanks for going into detail.

I don't know how many P.O.'s there were to this truck, but I think each and every one of them did some hacking here and there because I always have something electrical failing that I have to fix (still working on trying to get my NEW wiper motor functional).

Is it safe to say that I can go ahead and add that second red wire that will go from the battery to the starter?

With me having just regular wires and not fusible links for the starter, do you think my problem might be more in depth than just the links? Maybe I fried the bulkhead( I hope not!).
 
Here's another photo. All 10 lbs. of electrical tape has been removed and the metal housing was slid off the wires.

Both wires have been spliced, I also have a light brown/ tan wire (not seen in the photo below) that was in the metal housing that runs along the frame rail towards the rear of the truck (what is this?).

I also traced the starter supply wires, they go back around the back side engine and to the bulkhead, so I guess that answered one of my questions earlier...

Where will I be splicing the starter wire fusible links in or at which point? Pretty much just cut the old splices out and put them in there?

Photo: sorry for the sideways photo... I can't seem to straighten it out.

20140621_103125_zps80ba9a59.jpg
 
I would just replace the thick red wire(s) with new ,that way you'll be sure there is no bad spots in the original or already messed with wires to give grief later on--seeing they look toasted they likely have high resistance now..

If you suspect the red wire(s) that goes in the main harness from the starter might be "bad" somewhere in the harness behind the engine,you could trace it to where it comes out on the drivers side (I'm thinking it goes to that plastic junction block thing if I remember right)---and run the new wire right to there,and secure it to the firewall with some insulated clamps--you could put some of that plastic conduit over it or use rubber hose,etc,for a thicker insulating protective covering to prevent it from chafing against anything--and make sure it stays away from the exhaust or anything else that gets hot..

I think your other wiring and fuse box "should" be OK,if you dont see any evidence of wires that melted or the fuse box looking melted anywhere...

That "tan" wire might be the oil pressure sending unit wire,thats about the only "tan" wire I can think of being in that area,though it should come from the drivers side..might be a gas tank sending unit wire,but those usually come out on the drivers side on trucks with a single tank...all I can suggest is follow it all the way back and see where it ended up!..
 
Thanks for the info, I'm going to replace as much of this wiring as I can and hopefully get the truck started up today.

I've got another photo, what can I do to clean the bulkead up? Can the wires be easily removed and replaced (do they have a spade connector on them that plugs into the bulkhead?

Note: the bulkhead has been in this condition since I purchased the truck.

20140621_110559_zps8e0933ad.jpg
 
Those wires might best be left untouched unless the insulation is cracking off or they were burnt,etc..that black goopy tar stuff is factory GM applied corrosion preventative...if you must,the fuse block or bulkhead can be taken apart,I think one 3/8" bolt holds the two halves together--I have only taken them apart when doing a cab swap--..

Usually the wire connectors inside the bulkhead still look nice,once in a while one might turn green and corrode badly and cause troubles,but I haven't had that issue yet,and I've had my share of trucks with hacked & butchered wiring harnesses and 40 years old..it might take some searching to find the right style connectors they used inside the fuse box on the wires if you do decide to replace any of them..
 
Thanks for the info. I thought they were just old and kind of melted or something. Good to know that that's from the factory.

I've got my supplies. 10 gauge primary wire, 14 gage fusible link wire, step down connectors, regular connectors and some shrink tubing. I picked up a battery cable splice to so I can run the wires from the starter to the battery.
 
Ok, here's the current situation:

The two red wires are the primary lines coming from the starter (same post as the battery cable).

The yellow butt connectors are of the stepdown type 10 gauge - 14 gauge

The gren wires are regular wires for mock up purposes, but they represent the fusible link wires.

Fusible links go into a 3 way connector (Blue)

14 Gauge primary wire from the blue 3 way connector goes into the battery cable.

Does everything look like it's supposed to?
Are the fusible links in the correct spot?
Is it safe to run one 14 gauge wire from the battery into two 14 gauge fusible links into 2 10 gauge wires?
Will the starter receive enough juice from that 12 gauge wire?

20140621_140802_zps4fc060cf.jpg
 
Also, I have another question.

The red wire that was from behind the engine and attached to the starter, since I'm running both power lines straight to the battery what do I do with that wire? What is the proper way to seal it off since it won't be used anymore.
 
All I did on my trucks was take the two OEM red wires with the fusible links off at the starter ,put the battery cable back on the solenoid post,and ran those two red wires right to the battery's positive post..they were too short to reach,so I had to add in another foot or so of new wire,to allow them to reach the battery..

The starter "receives" no power from those two red wires--GM just decided it was a convenient place to connect them to the positive battery cable at that solenoid stud,like a junction block...instead those wires SEND 12V to that plastic junction block on the firewall and then to the fuse box and to the rest of the truck..

The way the truck was wired originally,the fusible links are the thinnest gauge wire in the circuit--so they will fry first,instead of the wiring harness...so you should use a single 10 gauge from the battery TO the fusible links,and FROM them to wherever they need to go,so the "thinner" fusible link wires will be the first to fry, if a short occurs..(I know that might be hard to understand,but thats my best way of explaining it to you)..

I just snip any old "now unused" wires off flush and tape them into the harness--as long as both ends are cut there wont be any power in them to worry about shorting to ground..

I dont see where you need that fancy battery cable adapter thing...a simple 10 gauge ring connector that will go on the battery cable clamp bolt is all I have used ,and haven't had any issues--I used a solid copper lug type with a 3/8" hole ,and taped it so nothing can touch it and ground out against it..
I simply put both the red wires in that lug and crimped it and put the lug on the side terminal post or the cable clamp bolt...
 
Ok. So ditch the 14 gauge wire from the battery to the fusible links and replace it with a 10 gauge wire. Didn't think about using a ring connector on the clamp bolt so I'll do it that way and get my $11.99 back.

So, I have those two 10 gauge red wires running to the post on the starter where the battery cable goes... this is correct, right?

My fusible links are in the correct place, right?

Is there anything else that's not correct in the photo?

Also, the supply red wire from the engine harness that WENT to the starter, is basically of no use right now, correct... since I'm running those two 10 gauge wires straight to the battery?? This is the one I want to disable.

Another question, I splice a 6" piece of fusible link onto the blue/ purple wire that connect to the starter, correct?

I saw these terminals at NAPA today, they look like a small connector with a clear "nipple" shaped housing on them, they were in the same area as the terminal nuts, they looked like they could be used to "delete" or disable a wire, you just crimp it on and one end is sealed up, could I use one of those to disable the cable
 
The only wires that need fusible links are the ones GM put them on,where you saw them originally..--the two thick red wires that were under the positive cable at the starter (that your now moving and hooking right to the battery now)need one on each wire--and the two oem fusible links at that plastic junction block on the firewall you had in the photo...

The purple wire on the solenoid's small "S" post doesn't need a fusible link--that wire stays just as it was factory--no need to touch it,unless its "bad" or the ring connector needs replacing.....that wire "tells" the starter to crank and activates the solenoid when you turn the key to "start",other than then, its got no power in it..

To avoid confusion I'd leave the old red wire(s) on that plastic junction block on the firewall there,just cut out the old fusible links and replace them --there will be two red wires on the stud closest to the engine--one of the red ones coming from behind the engine in the harness is the one you are "deleting"that was at the starter/positive cable stud ,the other red one goes to the altenator,to the main output "stud" on the back of it...this one must remain connected for the battery to charge ,and the altenator to work..so I'd just snip the red one off that was at the starter off and cap it off,tape it,do whatever you need too,so it cant touch anything and ground out..
 
Ok, here's the new and improved setup. Battery cable clamp to ring terminals to 10 gauge wire to step down connector to 14 gauge fusible link to step down connector to 10 gauge wire to ring terminals to starter.

20140621_203402_zpsxkc91b6t.jpg


I'm going to put everything back in tomorrow morning and cut out the old fusible links on the firewall and replace them.

Worst case scenario... If the truck doesn't turn over after this what would be the next step/ next place to look?
 
Not to throw a wrench in here but what are you gaining by going straight to the battery except adding length to the wires. It's a shorter run from the starter to the firewall junction block like it was and replace the fuse able links? Just asking, not stepping on your toes just asking.

I added a wire to the starter and ran it up to another junction block also added thru a CB for extra accessories.


You might want to look into remote solenoid aka hot start kit and run your power from the solenoid is another way.
 
That setup should work fine provided you hook the wires up where they belong...

The main reason I moved those wires on my trucks was already stated,the way they were routed in the metal pipe and to the starter (in my opinion) makes the wires and fusible links more likely to get roasted and fail ,by the hot exhaust manifold,it makes replacing the fusible links a real pain,and adds to the agony of installing the starter ..

GM routed the wires right to the battery (well,actually the horn relay,it had a stud they used as a junction block right next to the battery if it matters)--for decades before 1972 or so and it worked fine,why they changed it, other than to save a few feet of wire and make it harder to fix in the future, I dont know..
 
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