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Please help, NO POWER!!!

anofzinger said:
Okay, verified TDC. I had a friend plug the hole with his finger while I bumped motor. The index mark was sitting right about 12* BTDC, so I manually rotated engine until he said it was TDC (was actually at 4* BTDC). Will setting everything up with the motor set at 4* BTDC cause it to not fire? Rotor was pointing at number 2 cyl, so I routed the plug wires from that post on cap as my number 1. I redid my lashing on all valves, I really screwed that up the first time. It is amazing when you actually read and follow directions. Reconnected everything and tried to start, nothing...Well, battery died. I am getting fuel, residue on plugs and I can see it spraying in carb. As far as spark, I can only assume because I do not know how to test for it. I have replaced all portions of the electrical side as I can with the exception of the distributor. Spark plugs are all gapped at 40. On the compression side, can I test for compression with the motor not running. I have a compression kit and was told just to screw it into each plug and bump motor 3-5 times. Does that sound right? Quickly running out of ideas, starting to worry about cam being flattened.
Click to expand...

I disagree with the comments highlighted in red.
-When your buddy plugged the hole with his finger, (I use a wine cork because I usually do this alone.) When the compression stroke pops on #1 you should be at TDC. Don't manually rotate the engine, leave it right there.
-With the engine staying right there take off the dizzy to see if the button is under the #1 spark plug wire. Don't your dizzy cap have a #1 stamped on it? You would adjust this by loosening the dizzy hold down bolt & spinning the dizzy until the button is at #1.
Now that you mentioned it check your firing order (mine is stamped on the front center of my engine under the thermostat housing) and make sure the spark plug wires are in the correct order going clockwise.
- To check for spark, remove the #1 spark plug wire, hold the end about a 1/4" away from something grounded like the frame rail or a bracket. Have your buddy bump the starter and you should be able to see the spark arch from the spark plug wire to the ground. Don't put your hand on the metal when doing this or you will get a jolt.
This is how I have done it in the past & I know it works. I do all this without even looking at the timing mark, I only use the timing mark after the engine is running to set the final timing at idle.
- I would set the spark plug gap at .35.
Good luck, I hope you get it running soon.
 
Yes, I agree. Stop relying on the timing tab for now. Finding the physical TDC is much more important. When the finger/cork blows off you are close, but you can tweak it from there by sticking something down the spark plug hole. Then you can see if the timing mark is right. Make a new one if it isn't.

Rerouting the plug wires is just going to give you headaches later.
 
pblaze725 said:
I disagree with the comments highlighted in red.
-When your buddy plugged the hole with his finger, (I use a wine cork because I usually do this alone.) When the compression stroke pops on #1 you should be at TDC. Don't manually rotate the engine, leave it right there.
-With the engine staying right there take off the dizzy to see if the button is under the #1 spark plug wire. Don't your dizzy cap have a #1 stamped on it? You would adjust this by loosening the dizzy hold down bolt & spinning the dizzy until the button is at #1.
Now that you mentioned it check your firing order (mine is stamped on the front center of my engine under the thermostat housing) and make sure the spark plug wires are in the correct order going clockwise.
- To check for spark, remove the #1 spark plug wire, hold the end about a 1/4" away from something grounded like the frame rail or a bracket. Have your buddy bump the starter and you should be able to see the spark arch from the spark plug wire to the ground. Don't put your hand on the metal when doing this or you will get a jolt.
This is how I have done it in the past & I know it works. I do all this without even looking at the timing mark, I only use the timing mark after the engine is running to set the final timing at idle.
- I would set the spark plug gap at .35.
Good luck, I hope you get it running soon.
Click to expand...

I have never located a mark on my dizzy, just able to look at rotor and see where it points and place wires appropriately.

As far as adjusting the dizzy to make the rotor point at cyl 1, do I just spin the entire dizzy around in a clockwise direction until the rotor points in the correct location?

My firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.
 
2010-01-24_020841_firing_order.gif
 
Blue85,

Thanks for the diagram. That's the one I was utilizing. I am having a heck of a time to get the rotor to point to #1. I am going to try PBlaze725 suggestion of spinning the dizzy until it sets in and points at #1. Probably going to try Monday when I get back from work. I will let you know if it works. Quickly running out of ideas, the truck ran fine until I threw the #2 push rod and was dumb and tightened all the valves down. THANK YOU everyone for the tips and suggestions.
 
anofzinger said:
I have never located a mark on my dizzy, just able to look at rotor and see where it points and place wires appropriately.

As far as adjusting the dizzy to make the rotor point at cyl 1, do I just spin the entire dizzy around in a clockwise direction until the rotor points in the correct location?

My firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.
Click to expand...

There is a #1 marked on my dizzy cap.

Yes sir, after you find TDC pop off the dizzy cap & note where the button is pointing.
Then put the cap back on, loosen the hold down bolt & spin the entire dizzy cap until The #1 plug wire is over the button.
I tighten the hold down bolt some but keep it loose enough to adjust.
It should start.
Then break out the timing light & make it perfect. After it is timed tighten the hold down bolt all the way.
 
I went out this morning to take a pic of my #1 mark on the dizzy for you.

... it wasn't there!:doah:
I remember seeing one but it must have been another rig.
I took the cap off and looked inside, removed the plug wires and ignition module and couldn't find it.
I did however take some pics for you where I marked my #1 plug wire on the dizzy cap. Now I can't find my thumb drive to load it in the computer!:doah::doah:
My #1 wire connects to the dizzy on the drivers side just in front of the ignition module.
I'm sorry I misinformed you about the mark on the cap; I could literally see it in my mind!



It would have looked like this:


makemark.jpg
This guy marked where his button was at TDC then put the cap back on and spun it until the 1 was close to the mark. That's the basic idea.
Unfortunately our caps do not have the 1 stamped on it.
:thinking:

makemark.jpg
 
Ok, I love the cork method up until you lose the cork, LOL. Found TDC, installed dizzy, redid wires and it breathes. Runs very rough but it runs. Now I can redo my timing and lashing and hope it stays running. Thank you for everyones help. I will keep you posted on the status.
 
anofzinger said:
Ok, I love the cork method up until you lose the cork, LOL. Found TDC, installed dizzy, redid wires and it breathes. Runs very rough but it runs. Now I can redo my timing and lashing and hope it stays running. Thank you for everyones help. I will keep you posted on the status.
Click to expand...

You know it's at TDC if it pops the cork across the garage and knocks the light out! :haha:
I'm glad it's alive again. :waytogo:
 
Well....it was running!!!! Very rough but still running. What will cause fuel vapor to come from the carb??? It fills the engine bay like a fog. Am I getting too much fuel? I tried adjusting the valves with the motor off and when I got to the step to rotate motor one rotation, I didn't get compression from #1 so I didn't know when to stop bumping. Now the motor won't start, guess I am back to square one. I am following the directions in the Haynes manual. Does anyone have suggestions, besides explosives, selling or pushing it of a cliff?
 
This fuel vapor just started happening or you've seen it before? Do you have an intake valve that isn't closing or an exhaust valve that isn't opening? I don't see how fuel could come up unless you have air going in the wrong direction. You must have done something bad to the valves or maybe the valve timing is way off - like a timing chain slip.

The more you work on it the worse it gets?
 
I would suggest that when you get it running, advance the timing by rotating the dizzy cap clockwise until it sounds better. This is a good time to break out the timing light.
The fuel may be vaporizing because the timing is retarded and it is not igniting.:dunno:
 
Even if the engine isn't running at all and it's just cranked by the starter, there shouldn't be anything coming back out of the intake. Sure, there is some pulsing and reversal in the intake, but the vast majority of air movement is the right direction. If not, the valves are doing something wrong.
 
OK, figured it out. I had the truck running, rough, and noticed some of the valves weren't moving. I was actually running on 3 cylinders. I pulled the cam and it was really bad. Thanks to everyone for the help. Now I have to get a new cam and lifters...Any suggestions? I have the Edelbrock intake so I was thinking stay Edelbrock. I found two in my price range, one is 1500-5500 RPM and the other is 1500-6500 RPM. What would be the true difference?
 
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