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Please identfy TRE and some other questions

S

Stein

1/2 ton status
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After wheeling this weekend I was driving home and it was wandering around on the highway any time above 55. Tracked perfectly smooth on the way down at 65. After a few miles we stopped and I found the drivers TRE was loose. Loose to the point that when Steve moved the wheel you could see the whole stud moving. The cotter pin was in place but the castled part of the nut was above the cotter pin. I tightened it up about 1 1/2 turns. It was better but still wanders.

I'm suspecting a couple of things.

1) The TRE on the crossover aren't very old (4 trips and 4,000 highway miles), but the dust seals are cracked so I'll replace both.
2) It's possible that the the loose stud portion ovaled out the tapered hole so even if it is tight it can move around. Haven't verified this yet.
3) Unrelated to the front but while wheeling the rear U-bolts stretched to the point that they were all loose on the rear axle. I was able to tighten them up finally but the centering pin can be wiggled by hand on the passenger side so I suspect the axle may have moved a little bit so I'm going to replace the rear u-bolts and centering pins.

So the questions:

1) Are these TRE stock 1 ton ends? If not, can someone identify them?



2) I'll test fit new ends in the tapered hole and if I detect any slop can they be reamed or is replacing parts the only option?

3) can I run a washer above the nut so that the castled part engages the cotter pin or is that a no-no? (don't mind the cotter pin above, it's just there temporarily)

4) Are centering pins sold loose generically by size or do I need to know what springs they are? I didn't build the truck.
 
1: Looks like it could be a 1ton tie rod end. Best bet is to remove it and take it with you to match up.

2: You could ream the hoes out and install a new taper. Or switch over to a heim style rod end.

3: I've run a washer under the nut before with no problem. Usually make sure to use a hardened one if I can.

4: Center pins are generic. Good option to do is get a 3/8 bolt and grind the head round till it fits into the spring perch. I also like to use a grade 8 here as well.
 
New u bolts almost always loosen up. You might expirence the same thing with brand new u bolts
 
blazinzuk said:
New u bolts almost always loosen up. You might expirence the same thing with brand new u bolts
Click to expand...

True, but these have been on there for a couple of years and were tight until this trip. They were rusted so tight that even with the washer spinning freely beneath the nut it took two wrenches linked together to move the nut. I'd feel better replacing them with a quality grade 8 set from DIY. I suspect they are the cheaper ones like those that I replaced on the front.
 
Thanks toomany and Jess. I'll probably do the grade 8 bolt pin.
 
So I will check the threads but I assume most of these crossover kits come with threads for one ES2010L and one ES2010R?
 
Looks like the parts stores are $50 for MOOG ones, Amazon is $35 for the same MOOG parts. I just need to verify tonight if they are indeed one left and one right hand thread.
 
What is the proper toe in or toe out for alignment assuming 37's and more highway miles than offroad?
 
I think i'm running the 2234R for the Right hand thread. It has a longer shank.


TREsforhysteerinvertedT.jpg



I'm set at 1/16-1/8 toe in on about a 37" tire. I made a jig using flat stock and a level, and two tapes. I say 1/16-1/8 because of error on the tapes.


sorry about the upside down pic. :(

IMG_5633.JPG
 
jekquistk5 said:
I think i'm running the 2234R for the Right hand thread. It has a longer shank.


TREsforhysteerinvertedT.jpg



I'm set at 1/16-1/8 toe in on about a 37" tire. I made a jig using flat stock and a level, and two tapes. I say 1/16-1/8 because of error on the tapes.
Click to expand...

I took pics of both but didn't post them. Both of mine are threaded in a comparable amount so likely the longer shank isn't needed on mine.

Your toe is about what I would have guessed. Thanks for the confirmation. I looked at the tie rod yesterday to see if it was bent on a rock which would have added toe in and led to my wandering. It appeared straight.
 
Stein said:
I took pics of both but didn't post them. Both of mine are threaded in a comparable amount so likely the longer shank isn't needed on mine.

Your toe is about what I would have guessed. Thanks for the confirmation. I looked at the tie rod yesterday to see if it was bent on a rock which would have added toe in and led to my wandering. It appeared straight.
Click to expand...

Mine only used the shorter shanks also. And I went with the 1/8th when I ran my 37's too.
 
Stein said:
True, but these have been on there for a couple of years and were tight until this trip. They were rusted so tight that even with the washer spinning freely beneath the nut it took two wrenches linked together to move the nut. I'd feel better replacing them with a quality grade 8 set from DIY. I suspect they are the cheaper ones like those that I replaced on the front.
Click to expand...


Yah I'd replace em in that case too.
 
Got a chance to poke around tonight. Draglink ends are loosey goosey so I'll replace both sets. They look like they are both the same style and part number.
 
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