Please inform me if I am an idiot (hijacked to fuel pump tech)

[smalltruckbigcid]

Yeah but doesn't the TBI pump run at 35~50lbs of pressure. I run a holley pump on my Cummins and it runs at 5~6 lbs. any more cause fuel problems from the fuel getting aerated (foamy) by the holley pump.
George

 

[kennyw]

If thats the case you would find out fast...

 

[rich]

I thought the TBI pump was somewhere around 12psi?

TBI uses a lot lower fuel pressure than a port fuel injection setup, which would run like 35-50 psi.

 

[imiceman44]

I thought the TBI pump was somewhere around 12psi?

TBI uses a lot lower fuel pressure than a port fuel injection setup, which would run like 35-50 psi.

You are correct alhough I think 14PSI is what TBI runs but in that range anyway, TPI runs the 35-50PSI

 

[75-K5]

Since TBI is basically a glorified carb, in-tank pumps only run 9-12 psi, probably 15 max. Given this scenario, I probably shouldn't have any problems with the IP sucking foam should I?

 

[MaxPF]

TBI's run 12psi at the injector, but I am not sure what the TBI pump will put out if you dead-head it (I think there is a regulator on the throttle body). I plan on running a regulator for carb apps that will reduce it to around 6psi. Still, even 12psi doesn't sound excessive for the input of the IP...

 

[75-K5]

Got details on the regulator?

 

[MaxPF]

Got details on the regulator?

Not on any particular one. Summit and Jegs both sell them.They range in price from cheap to Oh $hit!!!

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+4294925239+4294839053+115+4294880914

All the ones designed for carbs are adjustable and can be set for the range we're talking about...

 

[75-K5]

I am going to remove the lift pump and put a block off plate over the opening in the block. The plate will have a -12 AN fitting for turbo oil return to the pan

Would you use the same part number for the block-off plate on a 6.2 as on a 350? They look quite similar but wanted to make sure before I ordered it.

Think I'm gonna bolt on the blockoff plate and mount the FPR to it

 

[kennyw]

Would you use the same part number for the block-off plate on a 6.2 as on a 350? They look quite similar but wanted to make sure before I ordered it.

I believe they are the same.

 

[75-K5]

OK, I've been reading some other threads about this on dieselplace.com and elsewhere and common opinion seems to be that the diesel fuel will kill the TBI pump in a matter of weeks. Although I have yet to see anyone post who has had personal experience with it. Maybe I should just cut each tank with a gallon of K1 to keep it nice and runny, or is that a bad idea? Perhaps a tank heater in the winter?

 

[MaxPF]

Well, I have changed my mind. I'm gonna stick with the mechanical lift pump. Nice and simple Plus I don't have to worry about a failed in-tank pump leaving me stranded. FWIW, it looks like the later 6.5's used a frame-mounted electric pump, not an in-tank. If you're set on an electric lift pump this is probably the better route.

 

[rich]

Would you use the same part number for the block-off plate on a 6.2 as on a 350? They look quite similar but wanted to make sure before I ordered it.

Took mine off on Sunday and compared to a Small Block Chevy plate - they are definitely the same.

I'm putting a SBC block off plate on mine and running an electric pump to replace the leaking mechanical pump. When I was removing the mechanical pump, it sucked how tight it is in there around the pump, plus the inlet and return fuel lines can't be easily replaced with the pump in place. So I picked up a 4-7psi Mr. Gasket electric pump from the local auto parts store. I have one or two used aftermarket electric pumps of the same style that I pulled off parts trucks, so I can carry a spare, and would be much easier to swap out than the stock mechanical if it failed. I hope this works!

 

[75-K5]

Quick update on this...I ended up getting an aftermarket 16 gallon fuel cell to mount inside the truck and installing the SBC style blockoff plate, then picked up a Master (generic Carter style) electric in-line fuel pump spec'ed for a 1998 6.5TD, part #E3158. Hope it works!

 

[BKinzey]

Do you have the stock pump/filter? Round or box type? The stock pump/filter has water drain, air valve, and a heater on it. Most seem to think the round type is better. The recommended set-up is to have the stock on the firewall for access and your in-line pump as close to the tank as you can get it. Fuel pumps push better than they pull so for you mounting it right on your fuel cell would be best.

Safety consideration. Run the electric pump through an oil pressure switch (OPS). During an accident or roll over as long as the key is in the ignition the pump will run, which could be disastrous. Some install an OPS, some don't.

Also consider running a momentary switch to the electric pump. Anytime you need to prime the system, as in a filter change, you can do it with the switch.

 

[imiceman44]

Do you have the stock pump/filter? Round or box type? The stock pump/filter has water drain, air valve, and a heater on it. Most seem to think the round type is better. The recommended set-up is to have the stock on the firewall for access and your in-line pump as close to the tank as you can get it. Fuel pumps push better than they pull so for you mounting it right on your fuel cell would be best.

Safety consideration. Run the electric pump through an oil pressure switch (OPS). During an accident or roll over as long as the key is in the ignition the pump will run, which could be disastrous. Some install an OPS, some don't.

Also consider running a momentary switch to the electric pump. Anytime you need to prime the system, as in a filter change, you can do it with the switch.

He has the round style.

The square has it's beneits but it has problems leaking so most go back to the ound style.

 

[75-K5]

Do you have the stock pump/filter? Round or box type? The stock pump/filter has water drain, air valve, and a heater on it. Most seem to think the round type is better. The recommended set-up is to have the stock on the firewall for access and your in-line pump as close to the tank as you can get it. Fuel pumps push better than they pull so for you mounting it right on your fuel cell would be best.

Safety consideration. Run the electric pump through an oil pressure switch (OPS). During an accident or roll over as long as the key is in the ignition the pump will run, which could be disastrous. Some install an OPS, some don't.

Also consider running a momentary switch to the electric pump. Anytime you need to prime the system, as in a filter change, you can do it with the switch.

Yep, got the round style (from Iceman), threw the box type in the garr-bage. I thought mounting it inside the rear tub against the side (near rear wheel well) would be the easiest to access. Definitely easier than under the hood. The pump is only about 18" after the fuel cell, so it will be mainly pushing.

I considered the oil pressure switch, but I think I'll just take a risk and not worry about it. The fuel cell is filled with aerospace-grade foam, and is made to not rupture upon impact, plus the fact that I'll be running 100% biodiesel, which is much less volatile than petroleum diesel. I'll also be carrying a couple fire extinguishers, so I think I should be okay.

I don't have a momentary switch to the lift pump, I have a toggle switch that powers both the IP and the lift pump together, so I can turn the fuel pump on whenever I want. On the truck, the only thing that the key is used for is to unlock the steering column...everything else is run by various switches, buttons, etc. Hopefully it will be confusing enough that anybody trying to steal it will just give up .